Newbie Log Splitter Question

[Baldrick]

I'm thinking about purchasing a Yardmax 25 ton splitter and have never used a log splitter before, hence the stupid question.

Do you have to fully cycle it for every split? Or, can you just retract it enough to fit the next log?

Thanks!

 

[Boredrob]

You only have to go back a far as you need.

 

[Baldrick]

That's what I though (and was hoping).

Thanks!

 

[Karrl]

You can start and stop anywhere in the cycle but if you push the lever all the way to retract it returns to fully retracted. You’ll hear it click when you trigger the auto return and you can stop the auto return at anytime by pulling the lever into the neutral position.

To shorten your stroke, to presumably make for faster splitting, they make collars that go onto the piston to make it shorter. I have heard these are not good because they can break the piston end. Another option is to put a stop plate on the splitter beam to physically stop the wedge from returning all the way. This might work better but I have no experience with it myself.

If you are looking to speed up splitting may I suggest taking a look at the CountyLine splitters from tractor supply. Their 25 ton has an 11.5 cycle time which is much better than I’ve seen from comparable units. Overall they are really good options for homeowners and smaller firewood operations.

 

[fishdrivel]

You can also "speed up" the cycle time by using another log or piece of log to push your log through winch. This will shorten stroke.
you will then be able to use the return function.

 

[husky455rancher]

You can start and stop anywhere in the cycle but if you push the lever all the way to retract it returns to fully retracted. You’ll hear it click when you trigger the auto return and you can stop the auto return at anytime by pulling the lever into the neutral position.

To shorten your stroke, to presumably make for faster splitting, they make collars that go onto the piston to make it shorter. I have heard these are not good because they can break the piston end. Another option is to put a stop plate on the splitter beam to physically stop the wedge from returning all the way. This might work better but I have no experience with it myself.

If you are looking to speed up splitting may I suggest taking a look at the CountyLine splitters from tractor supply. Their 25 ton has an 11.5 cycle time which is much better than I’ve seen from comparable units. Overall they are really good options for homeowners and smaller firewood operations.

I tried the collars on my Wolfe ridge and it exploded the bolt that bolts the cylinder to the ram. Pretty happy it didn’t hit me. I have no idea where that half of the bolt went. Needless to say after I replaced the bolt those came right off and I’ve never had a problem like that again.
I’m thinking of bolting a plate to the ram to shorten the 26” stroke.

 

[Baldrick]

You can start and stop anywhere in the cycle but if you push the lever all the way to retract it returns to fully retracted. You’ll hear it click when you trigger the auto return and you can stop the auto return at anytime by pulling the lever into the neutral position.

To shorten your stroke, to presumably make for faster splitting, they make collars that go onto the piston to make it shorter. I have heard these are not good because they can break the piston end. Another option is to put a stop plate on the splitter beam to physically stop the wedge from returning all the way. This might work better but I have no experience with it myself.

If you are looking to speed up splitting may I suggest taking a look at the CountyLine splitters from tractor supply. Their 25 ton has an 11.5 cycle time which is much better than I’ve seen from comparable units. Overall they are really good options for homeowners and smaller firewood operations.

I was looking at the CountyLine splitters too. They're a bit more expensive though. The Yardmax has a 9.7 second cycle time too.

 

[rancher2]

To shorten your stroke, to presumably make for faster splitting, they make collars that go onto the piston to make it shorter. I have heard these are not good because they can break the piston end. Another option is to put a stop plate on the splitter beam to physically stop the wedge from returning all the way. This might work better but I have no experience with it myself

Those stop collars have there place. Most are built to be used on AG type tie rod cylinders. We use them on a bat wing mower to control mow height and I have used them on disk to control depth. On most log splitter cylinders they will damage the cylinder over time. Lots of other ways to have a stop on a log splitter. Had a friend that only split twelve inch wood so I drilled his beam and put a bolt on both sides of the slide to stop it on the return. If he needs the full stroke he just takes the bolts out.

 

[fishdrivel]

I tried the collars on my Wolfe ridge and it exploded the bolt that bolts the cylinder to the ram. Pretty happy it didn’t hit me. I have no idea where that half of the bolt went. Needless to say after I replaced the bolt those came right off and I’ve never had a problem like that again.
I’m thinking of bolting a plate to the ram to shorten the 26” stroke.

If you are splitting 18" logs on a 26" stroke, just put an 8" block of wood as a spacer and that "reduces the stroke to 20" with no safety concerns.
Do not put a round log in sideways, it can pop out!
If you split the spacer by mistake, just put another in.

 

[Karrl]

I was looking at the CountyLine splitters too. They're a bit more expensive though. The Yardmax has a 9.7 second cycle time too.

I hadn’t seen that the yard max has a quick cycle time. Does the yard max have a steel beam that runs the length of the cylinder? That’s what you want if you plan on splitting the tough stuff. Other than that I’d just check the reviews.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Do not use stroke reducing collars with tie rod cylinders. Tie rod meaning the rod coupling device is threaded onto the cylinder rod. It will strip the treads on the end of the rod. I found using a stop attached to the beam really wears the push plate and rod connection, as the bottom of the push plate stops. On my older hydro splitter the push plate tipped, or rocked backwards, wobbling the cup the rod slides into. The stroke reducing collars give an even stop. I did replace the connecting bolt a couple times a year. I did not use a hard grade #8 bolt, rather a softer one, a sacrificial one, that would bend over time.
Edit: I misspoke about tie rod cylinders. A tie rod cylinder is pictured, four rods holding the front and back cylinder ends on. What I was referring to is the push plate connection to the rod. The one shown, the push plate has a cup. The rod end and cup are drilled for a connecting bolt, through the sides of the cup and through the side of the rod end. Some rod ends are threaded instead. Like pushing a car, your fingers position the force your arms/body extends. If you try to pull the car, your fingers being the connection, fail. In Husky455ranchers case, the bolt may have taken the pressure in both directions, or may have been a hardened bolt. Just guessing. I ran stroke reducing collars for years.

 

[husky455rancher]

Do not use stroke reducing collars with tie rod cylinders. Tie rod meaning the rod coupling device is threaded onto the cylinder rod. It will strip the treads on the end of the rod. I found using a stop attached to the beam really wears the push plate and rod connection, as the bottom of the push plate stops. On my older hydro splitter the push plate tipped, or rocked backwards, wobbling the cup the rod slides into. The stroke reducing collars give an even stop. I did replace the connecting bolt a couple times a year. I did not use a hard grade #8 bolt, rather a softer one, a sacrificial one, that would bend over time.
Edit: I misspoke about tie rod cylinders. A tie rod cylinder is pictured, four rods holding the front and back cylinder ends on. What I was referring to is the push plate connection to the rod. The one shown, the push plate has a cup. The rod end and cup are drilled for a connecting bolt, through the sides of the cup and through the side of the rod end. Some rod ends are threaded instead. Like pushing a car, your fingers position the force your arms/body extends. If you try to pull the car, your fingers being the connection, fail. In Husky455ranchers case, the bolt may have taken the pressure in both directions, or may have been a hardened bolt. Just guessing. I ran stroke reducing collars for years.
View attachment 981989View attachment 981990

It really sure exactly why it blew up but I ran it maybe 5 hours before I did it and no issues whatsoever. I out in the collars and it blew up in a few minutes. I have another 5 hours or more on it since I took off the spacers and it’s been perfect.