Newbie wants Splitter build opinions

[Jerryv88]

Hello,
I am new to the forum. Found it while researching splitter building.

I have acquired some of the parts to start a splitter build and need to make a few decisions before I start cutting metal. Its going to be a pretty basic unit with an I-beam and fixed wedge. I have a lot of mechanical experience and access to some decent equipment so I am not limited that way. I don't have much experience with hydraulics, but I have been doing some reading. I'm probably going to buy a two spool valve because I want to add a log lift to it. My back is not getting any better or stronger with age.

The question I am faced with at the moment is which end should the wedge be on? It looks like the majority of the units I see pictures of have the wedge on the front end (the hitch end). It seems to me that there would be more room to work around the splitter if the wedge were on the back end away from the vehicle. The horizontal / vertical units generally face this way, but that is necessary so the foot can be tipped down to the ground.

Please give me the pros / cons as you see them.

Thanks
Jerry

 

[Mike from Maine]

Both -- ( a hitch on each end) it's what I did on mine. Comes in very handy.

 

[dave_dj1]

I think it's a matter of preference. I have mine on the wedge end and have no issues but that's just me.

 

[ponyexpress976]

Depends if you're gonna do your splitting where you are cutting and tossing into a truck or hauling the wood to a dedicated site and process there. All my wood gets brought "home" then processed with my tw-6. Most of the time its unhooked but if I have to move it, I don't have to worry about moving the pile of splits first in order to get to the hitch. Being able to pull away from the pile is nice. If you put a 2" receiver style at either end, the one at the wedge could double as a mount for an outfeed table.

If you can afford it, get an auto valve for the cylinder. Throw both levers and the ram extends, then automatically retracts when done. Set a log in and when you get back with the next round....the splitting is done and the cylinder is ready to go again. It really is remarkable how much time is "wasted" when you have to stand there holding a lever.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Some sort of table is wonderful on the opposite side of the beam from where your working. A log lift in a horizontal position is good too. Something to catch and hold the half split at beam height while you process the first half. I used an old SpeeCo splitter for years and built a wood auxiliary bench about four feet long that worked nicely.
A second feature would be to keep the axle and tires out of the work area.
Another would be a vertical splitter with a table at 32" or so, with a log lift, which covers the first two things mentioned.
Just re-read your post and it seems your going horizontal.

 

[Jerryv88]

Thanks for the replies. I am also concerned with working room and balance or tongue weight. I'm beginning to think that I should set up the main beam ( just tack it together) and see if I can get a feel for it. That way I can rearrange things if I decide I don't like it. I was thinking that adding a work table to the back end might be a good idea as well as being able to stage rounds on the log lift.

I drive a Suburban so I won't be splitting into a pickup, but I thought it might be good to be able to leave it hitched up for stability. I guess I have a tendency to over think things. It slows me down.

Jerry

 

[Jerryv88]

Depends if you're gonna do your splitting where you are cutting and tossing into a truck or hauling the wood to a dedicated site and process there. All my wood gets brought "home" then processed with my tw-6. Most of the time its unhooked but if I have to move it, I don't have to worry about moving the pile of splits first in order to get to the hitch. Being able to pull away from the pile is nice. If you put a 2" receiver style at either end, the one at the wedge could double as a mount for an outfeed table.

If you can afford it, get an auto valve for the cylinder. Throw both levers and the ram extends, then automatically retracts when done. Set a log in and when you get back with the next round....the splitting is done and the cylinder is ready to go again. It really is remarkable how much time is "wasted" when you have to stand there holding a lever.

I looked at that tw-6 and it looks a lot like what I had in mind. What is the working height of that machine? Do you find it is high enough to avoid back strain?

I was looking at an auto valve, but I couldn't grasp how it works. How does it know when to start the retract? Is it a pressure setting like the return detent on the common valves?

Thanks
Jerry

 

[Jakers]

yes. the "auto" function is all pressure controlled. if you get a piece of wood knoted and twisted enough to stall the ram it will also retract before the end of the stroke. and sometimes they require a little fine tuning to match your pump/motor combo. overall they work great and the problems stated are very rare and easy to remedy with proper reading and help

 

[Mike from Maine]

I also have the auto cycle. Once you use it you won't want to go back to a regular splitter valve.

It comes pre adjusted to retract when up the pressure hits 1500 psi. Which is enough to split most logs when using a a four way wedge. If you pull only one handle the cylinder will extend and stop when the pressure hits 1500 and then you can throw the other lever to retract it. Or hold the first lever down to get the max psi and finish splitting the gnarly logs.

 

[jthornton]

I used a tractor mounted horizontal splitter once and didn't like bending over to position the rounds so i built one to fit me.

JT

 

[Jerryv88]

That's a nice looking splitter. What is the table height? About 30"? How do you get the rounds up there initially? Do you use the loader in the background?

Thanks
Jerry

 

[blades]

You can also get power beyond valves rather than a twin spool unit.

 

[jthornton]

That's a nice looking splitter. What is the table height? About 30"? How do you get the rounds up there initially? Do you use the loader in the background?

Thanks
Jerry

Yea, the work height is about 30" or so... just perfect for me. For now I just pick them up but I have plans for a log lift using the wedge cylinder to lift them up.

JT

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I used a tractor mounted horizontal splitter once and didn't like bending over to position the rounds so i built one to fit me.
JT

MY tractor mounted splitter will go pretty much go all the way down on the ground, on up all the way to above my waist. I can roll the big ones right off the ground onto it, or roll them off my wagon onto it.

I love the design, very handy...

SR

 

[jthornton]

MY tractor mounted splitter will go pretty much go all the way down on the ground, on up all the way to above my waist. I can roll the big ones right off the ground onto it, or roll them off my wagon onto it.

I love the design, very handy...

SR

Wow a McCormick truck!!!

The splitter I borrowed was not as practical as yours and like yours when you split larger rounds you had to wrestle them back to the splitting area for secondary splitting.

JT

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Wow a McCormick truck!!!
The splitter I borrowed was not as practical as yours and like yours when you split larger rounds you had to wrestle them back to the splitting area for secondary splitting.
JT

Actually it's a Mc Cormick wagon, I'm just using it like a truck. lol

As for big rounds, there's NO "wrestling back", once the round goes through the 4-way, what's left above 4-way, is held up by the 4-way itself, all I do is flip it over "back onto the beam". (usually with one hand, unless it's a monster) Very easy to do and goes quite fast, plus I don't have to touch anything that's split, it get's pushed right off the end....

SR

 

[Oliver1655]

If you plan to leave the splitter attached to your vehicle then go with one where the splits are moving away from your vehicle. You can hide your tires under the out-feed tables which will also keep the axle towards the back of the splitter. This will allow you to add a trailer hitch & pull a trailer behind the splitter. You then can split right into the trailer.

If you look at my avatar, mine is the opposite, the splits move towards the vehicle. At the time I built it, I loaded the splits onto the flat bed of my 1 ton truck the splitter was pulled with. Notice the axle is close to the rear & I can pull a 12' trailer which easily holds 1 cord behind it at 70 mph no problem.

If you are planning to build a dedicated horizontal splitter as it sounds, I would not try to keep it "balanced". Tongue weight will make it tow better. By the time you add the out-feed tables & the log lift, it will be too heavy to move easily by hand unless you are working on clean concrete.

 

[mga]

Hello,
I am new to the forum. Found it while researching splitter building.

I have acquired some of the parts to start a splitter build and need to make a few decisions before I start cutting metal. Its going to be a pretty basic unit with an I-beam and fixed wedge. I have a lot of mechanical experience and access to some decent equipment so I am not limited that way. I don't have much experience with hydraulics, but I have been doing some reading. I'm probably going to buy a two spool valve because I want to add a log lift to it. My back is not getting any better or stronger with age.

The question I am faced with at the moment is which end should the wedge be on? It looks like the majority of the units I see pictures of have the wedge on the front end (the hitch end). It seems to me that there would be more room to work around the splitter if the wedge were on the back end away from the vehicle. The horizontal / vertical units generally face this way, but that is necessary so the foot can be tipped down to the ground.

Please give me the pros / cons as you see them.

Thanks
Jerry

i recommend using an "H" beam, preferably an 8" one rather than an "I" beam. there is a big difference! your beam is going to absorb all the stress being applied while splitting and the "H" beam is designed to flex accordingly.

wedge being front or back is your design preference. one of the most important parts of your splitter is going to be the slide. a weak one will ruin your whole machine. vertical or horizontal is personal preference. my opinion is vertical is a waste...just my opinion.

i built mine on a simple small boat trailer. the springs make it excellent for towing. i felt i didn't need a truck axle and wheels to move this and it's been thru some rough terrains.








this thing has split over a million pieces of wood of all kinds and has never let me down. i made this with the help and ideas from the guys in this forum.

 

[Jerryv88]

Thanks for all the pictures. It is good to see what others have built and see some alternatives.

Oliver: I know that a trailer needs some tongue weight for stability. Around 7 - 10% of gross weight is usually the target. I just don't want to end up with 500 lbs of tongue weight and no way to change it. At the same time, I don't want the wheels in my way.

Bacardi: I am not sure what you mean by an "H" beam. Your pictures show a beam similar to the one I have, but I would call it an I beam. I hadn't considered using a trailer frame. I will have to think about that. I do like the idea of having springs, but I was thinking of using the oil tank tube axle idea.

Thanks
Jerry

 

[mga]

i did make some mistakes on mine, for example i used 90 degree fittings on the cylinder ports, i should have used 45 degree. supposedly it keeps the heat down. after a while the oil will hit 120 degrees and at that point i usually shut it down for a while and let it cool off.

i like the idea of using a radiator with a fan, like an engine cooling type of fan. might be a winter project for me.