Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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Is the reed valve adapter and carb gaskets on right, not blocking the impulse hole?
You didn't moto seal those gaskets did you?
blk05crew
I like 'em green
No moto seal on the gaskets. I'll try fuel down the carb. I'll have to do some more messing with it. It's damn cold here though, in the teens today.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Compression is great, don't have anything to vac or pressure test.
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
You could always get rid of some equipment to eastern shore dudes
Did you ever decide to clean up a new to you saw and end up here? I was painting the hall and ran out of paint this afternoon and got bored.
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm going to pick up another 3400 on Saturday. Supposedly it runs fine. Can't reach the dude with the Craftsman 3.3.
So I know to check for scoring on piston and cylinder through exhaust outlet and plug hole. I'm going to do a ghetto compression test by holding pull cord and letting saw drop /roll down. Anything else I should specifically check for on these old saws?
So I know to check for scoring on piston and cylinder through exhaust outlet and plug hole. I'm going to do a ghetto compression test by holding pull cord and letting saw drop /roll down. Anything else I should specifically check for on these old saws?
Well, I decided to pull the cylinder to delete the base gasket and then noticed a little bar oil seeping from the case half joint and so it goes.
They are so easy to work on.
They are so easy to work on.
Nice one Tim. I went out to the garage last week for just a minute to get wrapping paper and made the mistake of loitering in front of my work bench for more than a moment. Ended up with 3400 to put back together and a 335 half apart.
An open question to anyone. I did note there was a fair bit of axial play on the crankshaft on the (low hours) 3400 saw. There was little radial play but, with axial, more so. The saw ran well enough prior to tear down.
Any concern when checking/looking for this in the future? What is acceptable or not?
Make sure it's complete. They are a little weak around the rear handle av mounts on the saw case so make sure they aren't broken. I shouldn't say weak but a ham-fisted operator reefing on the rear handle to try and pull the saw out of a pinch can break them.
The auto oiler diaphragms are very hard to come by but, not impossible to find so it's good if both oilers are functioning. Run the saw first without pumping the manual oiler to see if the auto oiler is putting out and then hit the manual oiler several times to see if it's working. You should see the extra oil flow off the bar and feel resistance in the manual oiler pump lever.
The auto oiler diaphragms are very hard to come by but, not impossible to find so it's good if both oilers are functioning. Run the saw first without pumping the manual oiler to see if the auto oiler is putting out and then hit the manual oiler several times to see if it's working. You should see the extra oil flow off the bar and feel resistance in the manual oiler pump lever.
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
Was that for me? If it was, I need to read a manual before I see the saw. Had no idea it had dual oilers or how to operate it manually
In addition you might notice the compression will not seem like much if you let it drop. Particularily if it has a 20" bar and it full of fuel/oil. They are lower compression saws. It should offer resistance when pulling it but will likely fall if you hang it from the cord. It is not like a fresh 10-10 that will hang there all day with a 16" b/c.
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