Nik's Poulan Thread

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I need some help, cover on the left is from my 4200 the right is also 4200 ???. What can you tell me about them, both fit over the bushings, both center hold down. Left is raised and the right is flat. Are they early and late, one for this and one for that . All help and pictures needed 20181124_150945-1024x576.jpg
 
I need some help, cover on the left is from my 4200 the right is also 4200 ???. What can you tell me about them, both fit over the bushings, both center hold down. Left is raised and the right is flat. Are they early and late, one for this and one for that . All help and pictures needed View attachment 686291

There were lots of little improvements along the way to improve reliability and meet user demands . You will see both of those on the earlier 4200 and 5200 saws. I suspect it was a strength improvement to prevent cracking the cover due to over tightening. The reinforcement is still in the tooling when they abandoned the top nut and went to the three hold down screws, likely as a cost savings.
Those improvements were likely running changes that happened when old stock was depleted.
Much like the rib on the front of the saw case and the reinforcement in the starter.

Some of the changes are so subtle they aren't known until you look hard a some parts sise by side. I was surprised to find there are at three different 3400 muffler diffusers.
 
The 5200 I built, I used a 4200 case, which has the reinforcement on the front of the case. My 5200 case was busted at the front right motor mount, the rear handle had a white death hole in it about the size of a nickel. Used everything off the 5200 to build with with the exception of the muffler. Someone had made a square block with holes drilled into it for a muffler. Had to use the 4200 muffler.

Steve
 
I finally got some time to work on the 3800 today, got the clutch off using a block of wood to stop the crank from turning and an impact with the air pressure backed off to 75lbs. My question now is can the oil pump diaphram be changed without taking out the pump?
 
I finally got some time to work on the 3800 today, got the clutch off using a block of wood to stop the crank from turning and an impact with the air pressure backed off to 75lbs. My question now is can the oil pump diaphram be changed without taking out the pump?
The pump comes out when you remove 3 of the 4 (?) screws - been a couple years since I've had one off. The fourth only threads into the body of the pump and holds the cover captive while installing or removing. It is fairly simple to remove the output line to the bar pad. I have seen two styles of line. The most common just threads into the back of the pump with a fitting. I would strongly recommend changing the pickup line as the OEM soften, and crack. Reuse the spring sheath. It is worth cleaning out the pump really well with a good soak. There are internal ball/spring checks that can get sticky. Work some WD-40 through holes. I would not use compressed air as the springs are very delicate. Clean button/pintle and new gaskets, case and cover (from sheet stock). Cut a small strip of foam and replace the atmospheric vent filter. A new piece of foam around the manual plunger shaft just behind the channel in the case under the cover plate as well. Just cut a block of foam and punch the rod through it. A surprising amount of cake can work in behind that plate from the channel if the foam is rotten.

They oil well with a healthy diaphram. Mind the impulse hole in the case that services the pump body. Make sure it is sealed well. They can leak when reusing old gaskets. Air leak symptoms follow.

Drain the oil tank. Been there, forgot that. Easy job to service the pump properly. Link to a post I made a couple or so years ago outlines what I do, with pics.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/poulan-thread.98495/page-2032#post-5931213
 
c9deb6fa48a1da06410f47086b59c59e.jpg
 
The pump comes out when you remove 3 of the 4 (?) screws - been a couple years since I've had one off. The fourth only threads into the body of the pump and holds the cover captive while installing or removing. It is fairly simple to remove the output line to the bar pad. I have seen two styles of line. The most common just threads into the back of the pump with a fitting. I would strongly recommend changing the pickup line as the OEM soften, and crack. Reuse the spring sheath. It is worth cleaning out the pump really well with a good soak. There are internal ball/spring checks that can get sticky. Work some WD-40 through holes. I would not use compressed air as the springs are very delicate. Clean button/pintle and new gaskets, case and cover (from sheet stock). Cut a small strip of foam and replace the atmospheric vent filter. A new piece of foam around the manual plunger shaft just behind the channel in the case under the cover plate as well. Just cut a block of foam and punch the rod through it. A surprising amount of cake can work in behind that plate from the channel if the foam is rotten.

They oil well with a healthy diaphram. Mind the impulse hole in the case that services the pump body. Make sure it is sealed well. They can leak when reusing old gaskets. Air leak symptoms follow.

Drain the oil tank. Been there, forgot that. Easy job to service the pump properly. Link to a post I made a couple or so years ago outlines what I do, with pics.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/poulan-thread.98495/page-2032#post-5931213

Thanks Hoggwood,the help is appreciated.
 
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