Might be easier to put a bed sheet over you
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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I use a big clear plastic bag, see what you're doing and parts stay inside.
Steve Sidwell
Steve Sidwell
Got the 4000 fixed and just rebuilt the pump was all it needed. So now I have 5 good running 4000.
EngineNoO9
ArboristSite Guru
I ended up leaving the manual oiler for now. It works well. It's not hard to get to if it starts struggling. The diaphragm seemed stiff on the auto oiler so I'm glad its replaced. Should hopefully help. I'm not touching the crank seals right now either. I have 4 of them on standby. They have the overspray red on them still. Should crank it tomorrow.
Buddy is coming over Friday to help clear the trees we brought down so I wanna run a tank or so through this before he comes over for the big stuff. Have a fresh chain coming too.
Buddy is coming over Friday to help clear the trees we brought down so I wanna run a tank or so through this before he comes over for the big stuff. Have a fresh chain coming too.
When you pressure tested the crankcase, did you spray soapy water on the crank seals and move the crank around?
Steve Sidwell
Steve Sidwell
EngineNoO9
ArboristSite Guru
I can. Not doing it tonight. If I see bubbles then yay crank seals. I've been avoiding it as I see me struggling with them and throwing something.
Been sitting in a straight chair all day, bought gone crazy not able to go to work today. Messed my backup again doing floor work. If I can get out of bed in the morning I'll head in. Much rather go finish working on my daughter's late fiancee's saw than working on a car.
Steve Sidwell
Steve Sidwell
Seals aren't that bad, just remember to taper the seal opening a bit. If you see micro bubbles, you should be ok. That's usually caused by too much pressure during testing.
Steve Sidwell
Steve Sidwell
Pull the clutch off and clean up the drum, shoes and spider so the shoes are sliding well and the oily sludge is gone.
You would have to pull the garter spring to do that but they aren't hard to get back on.
Sometimes they get full of crud.
Hi there. I just acquired a Poulan Pro 4218AVX chainsaw and it is a bit rough. It appears to have been left outside for some time. I cleaned it up quickly and it does run off the gas when poured in the plug hole or in the carburetor. I was happy. So I went to fill the tank up with fuel and when about to do so, I noticed the fuel line was a bit rotten. So would anybody here happen to know the size and diameter of fule line needed for this saw. I am away on holidays buy would like to try and pick some up from town in a day or two when I go there. Also, inside the tank, there is a fuel line joiner(double ended barbed). Can I omit this and just run a straight piece of fuel line? I will be replacing all the fuel lines while apart anyways. Thank you.
Duplicate post from chainsaw forum. If required, please delete from Chainsaw forum. My apologies.
Duplicate post from chainsaw forum. If required, please delete from Chainsaw forum. My apologies.
Thanks Tim will give it a go its slowly getting worse to the point where it's a struggle to keep a nice self feeding full chisel chain moving. I don't just sit there n let it slip eather is there any way I can re surface the shoes?
I would help ya but it's been a long time since I replaced fuel lines on one of those. All three lines were the same size but I do remember some of them used a smaller line in the tank, hence the barb fitting to connect to a bigger line and to seal the fuel line hole as the line is connected to the barbed fitting and pulled back through to seal.
Steve Sidwell
Steve Sidwell
I would rough up the the drum and the shoes with some emery cloth after you get the crud out.
Is the drum getting thin?
EngineNoO9
ArboristSite Guru
Posted this in the oiler thread but if I get around to it, I'm going to take the original oil diaphragm from my 3700 and make a drawing of it so I can cut out new ones with my cutting machine. Should result in pretty good recreations. I just need to get around to it and buy a sheet of the material.
Brent Nowell
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes Todd is right I found this out the other day, it allows positive and negative pressure from the pump piston to breathe and not allow large contaminants to enter. Just like how pcv works in and engine minus the check valve
Brent Nowell
Addicted to ArboristSite
Any others with piston removal tips please chime up
EngineNoO9
ArboristSite Guru
Curious as I was going to remove the piston from mine to clean it up but struggled so I decided to leave it be and stuff a rag under it to keep crap from getting in the crank case.
Here's pic of the factory Poulan tool
@OhioGregg made one up himself a few years ago. Check the link below for pics of it.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/craftsman-3-7-piston-removal.274782/#post-5249955
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EngineNoO9
ArboristSite Guru
For a factory tool that's some redneck looking ****....
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