Bob I have the poulan paint. My comment was to let people know that it was a different color and I knew it. The color on the guards is like the safety colors.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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The tachometer is a, hardline from Amazon
unit when it got to meet the ground at a hight rate of speed.
To bad it didn't have a voice box that said "pull up pull up"
To bad it didn't have a voice box that said "pull up pull up"
Screwbolts
Never to many Engines!!
LOL yup, During a high speed low pass with smoke on, the elevators developed flutter, slit second later there was a nasty load WHUMP noise ending in a smoking silence. Gravity works, lol
Rebuilt needs a 5200 starter 
Got a call last night to dig for some of my NOS parts.
Here you go. Poulan 380 3750 3450 330 pulley and a HDA-137 carb.
Plus the 3450 I was using on the hill clearing logging road few months ago.
Here you go. Poulan 380 3750 3450 330 pulley and a HDA-137 carb.
Plus the 3450 I was using on the hill clearing logging road few months ago.
Anyone know how to get the govenor out of a 5200 carb, also how do you disable it
I tried with a screwdriver no luck.
Heat with a soldering gun, will that work
I tried with a screwdriver no luck.
Heat with a soldering gun, will that work
Screwbolts
Never to many Engines!!
Just disabled a govoner in an HS carb 2 days ago. To remove my brass govoner unit, after disassembling the carb I clamped the body of the carb in leather padded vice jaws. I then used a short screw driver bit that fit the slot tightly. Taped the bit with a hammer several times to break the bond. The brass unit popped right lose then.
To disable the govenor also remove the copper seal washer in the bottom of hole. Then cut a 1/4" aluminum plug from the aluminum of a soda can side. Take your 1/4" gasket hole punch and make a .25" diameter aluminum slug/disc. Place the disk in the bottom of govoner hole, resemble using that copper washer next the the governor unit.
Congratulations you just plugged/ disabled the governor unit. It can no longer feed fuel to the carb intake
Ken
Screwbolts
Never to many Engines!!
I should have posted just a "yes" because I do know how to remove and disable a governor. Lol
Screwbolts
Never to many Engines!!
Todd and All!!!!! Never use a sodering gun close to any electronic devise. The magnetic field created by a sodering gun can degouse electronic components . Making them usless. They used to be used by TV repair men to degouse tube tvs years ago.
Okay thanks I just finished getting it out and came back to your post. I did it the same way, great minds...... . .., I used my gunsmith screwdriver set and vice, was very tight, I will do like you said
Picture of the hole with the copper ring in the bottom and the govenor that has a steel ball in the center. Thanks
Picture of the hole with the copper ring in the bottom and the govenor that has a steel ball in the center. Thanks
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Oh, OK. BTW, received the connecting rod bearings. Thanks. However S#$T Happens. Thought it easier to remove the piston in order to replace the bearings. GUESS WHAT. Didn't realize until too late that there were wrist pin bearings. Now all I have to do is replace those little suckers. Life's experiences are wonderful.
Screwbolts
Never to many Engines!!
LOL, Bob, never feel you are alone. I learned many many moons ago, it is best to learn by experience, preferably someone elses. I have also learned that Grease is your friend! Yes use enough grease to hold those pins in place just as you would have done the same for a U joint cap that the needle bearings just dropped out of. It is also possible that the bearings on the crank shaft of your engine do not have keepers of the rollers/needles, they will fall out when you remove them from the crank shaft, be ready. I have crankshaft bearing of both styles here, just be ready for them to fall out.
Grease is your friend!
" However S#$T Happens " if you eat right it happens with real regularity!!! LOL
Ken
Dang Bob, what are we going to do with you [emoji28]. Been there but was on a car. Was pulling a dash down on a 2019 Buick Encore. On one trim panel it showed what panel to remove next. It said to pull firmly to release. It said nothing about the panel behind it. Well to my surprise both parts were in my hands and a $200 part later to get that said part. Put more screws in it engineers.
Steve Sidwell
Steve Sidwell
Screwbolts
Never to many Engines!!
Good morning Todd, thank you for posting that photo of the HS carb from a 5200. Do you still have it open? If so could you verify if there is a tiny hole in the welch plug over the high speed venturi unit. would it also be possible for you to measure the orifice that the main metering needle rests on and also the orifice hole size size that feeds the high speed needle. I have set of jet drills that I use for this.
The reason I ask is I am working with a HS 147D-704 , it is from a 66cc pioneer P41S, pre Partner venture, then Poulan. I have replaced the 66 cc top end with a 72cc unit from one of my Quadra RC engines. The 2 piece Phelon ignition of the 41 was dead and the Quadra 75 used the same flywheel with a great readily available one piece Phelon coil. My HS147 would not supply enough fuel to over fuel this 72cc top end. even at 3 turns out on the high speed needle still not enough. Main metering orifice was .038 and orifice to high speed needle was same .038. I opened both to .040 and that helped slightly but still not enough. I took a larger bore HS 848 carb apart and found main metering orifice of .055 and feed to High speed needle .055. After opening both in 147 carb orifices to .055, I am able to run at 2.5 turns with slight 4 strokeing no load, but still signs of lack of fuel by spark plug color. The large bore HS 848 that I looked at to compare did have a small hole in the welch plug that is seated of Venturi high speed screened orifice unit. This hole is tiny my #77 jet drill shank just passes threw it. I believe I was given the Jet drill set because all drills from 63 smaller (higher numbers in this case ) are busticated. I have had both welch plugs out to verify no blockage. I also need a lows peed needle setting of 1.75 turns for perfect Idle! I believe the small hole in the welch plug may solve my fueling issue with this set up but would like to verify if your 5200 has that feature also.
It makes sense to me the small hole orifice in the welch plug. Tillotson rates the HS Carb Body series of carbs for 50cc to 100cc engines. the small orifice in the welch plug may feed just enough fuel threw the entire rang of RPM to alow the needle to be set at realistic setting on larger cc engines. While I was answering your question on govener last night it dawned on me that I still have the treasured Drill style torch tip cleaner set, that has all them small drills in it. I can replicate the 77 jet drill size with one of them.
My reason for keeping the HS147 is the butterfly size matches the size of the passage way in the reed block. I believe your HS carb has the larger Butterfly size as the HS 848 I took apart.
My HS147 does now have the 18 mm venturi, yes it was origonaly 14.5 mm. that was the first thing I opened up. I may also open up the High speed orifice in the venturi, but I seem to remember it was big when I had the welch plugs out.
I need to be able to over fuel this engine before I look very hard at the ports. they are stock now. the 72 cc jug does have the extra 2 boost ports feeding/flushing directly across from exhaust port. One of the beauties of reed engines, is none of the cylinder wall is occupied with carb intake port as in piston ported engines!
Ken
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well, I’m missing some of those small needle bearings. I’ve decided to scrap it so if anyone needs anything, let me know. Shipping cost only. I cleaned up cylinder and piston so they should be useable. Not great but should work out fine.
Brownthumb
ArboristSite Operative
You guys are killing me.
Long time lurker but I have to come out of my shell.
I am learning porting slowly and have a few successful ones and a few failers.
Without all the input of your guys and gals posts I would never have the knowledge I have.
Thank You,
Craftsman 3800.
I took .28 off the jug with a stationary belt sander and finished it off on on my planer table.
Removed the cylinder lip. Don’t ask how.
Raised the transfers to 120. exhaust was 103 so I left it and brought the intake down to 78.
Advanced the timing.
Squish is about 24.
Compression 180+
She runs nice unfortunately I have no chain to fit but the old wore out safety chain.
I’ll fix that tomorrow and get some shots in the wood.
Long time lurker but I have to come out of my shell.
I am learning porting slowly and have a few successful ones and a few failers.
Without all the input of your guys and gals posts I would never have the knowledge I have.
Thank You,
Craftsman 3800.
I took .28 off the jug with a stationary belt sander and finished it off on on my planer table.
Removed the cylinder lip. Don’t ask how.
Raised the transfers to 120. exhaust was 103 so I left it and brought the intake down to 78.
Advanced the timing.
Squish is about 24.
Compression 180+
She runs nice unfortunately I have no chain to fit but the old wore out safety chain.
I’ll fix that tomorrow and get some shots in the wood.
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Good to have you with us. I'm big fan of the 3800, doesn't take much to wake them up.
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