Nik's Poulan Thread

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By the time you buy the sled, truck, trailer, and all the equipment to go with it you into the a ton of money. Plus the weather we have seen lately with the lack of snow just doesn't justify the money. You could buy and or restore a ton of saws for that kind of money.

BTW: Anyone got a 3400 they want to get rid of. The one I'm working on now has both the choke rod and oiler broke off. Missing the air filter cover and the carb is missing the H screw, plus the muffler cover is missing. Hate to get rid of this good ole saw. It pulls 150ish with compression.
 
sefh3 said:
By the time you buy the sled, truck, trailer, and all the equipment to go with it you into the a ton of money. Plus the weather we have seen lately with the lack of snow just doesn't justify the money. You could buy and or restore a ton of saws for that kind of money.

BTW: Anyone got a 3400 they want to get rid of. The one I'm working on now has both the choke rod and oiler broke off. Missing the air filter cover and the carb is missing the H screw, plus the muffler cover is missing. Hate to get rid of this good ole saw. It pulls 150ish with compression.
Click to expand...

150 comp for a 3400? Outstanding. Is that with cylinder gasket? Highest I've seen or had was 135. I'd go on ebay and look for parts. Choke rod and oiler lever are common. I have an extra screw as both Lo and Hi are same size. Let me know what you're missing after you look. Or I'll purchase saw from you but I doubt you want to do that.
Bob

Ps: Cost of sledding is similar to cutting firewood. Cost of truck, saw, wood splitter, stove and trip to emergency room. But boy was it fun.
 
sefh3 said:
By the time you buy the sled, truck, trailer, and all the equipment to go with it you into the a ton of money. Plus the weather we have seen lately with the lack of snow just doesn't justify the money. You could buy and or restore a ton of saws for that kind of money.

BTW: Anyone got a 3400 they want to get rid of. The one I'm working on now has both the choke rod and oiler broke off. Missing the air filter cover and the carb is missing the H screw, plus the muffler cover is missing. Hate to get rid of this good ole saw. It pulls 150ish with compression.
Click to expand...

Don't happen to have the parts your lookin for, but most of that stuff can be had on ebay, or from Chaisawr.com, good source for that kinda stuff.
I think just buying another parts saw is about as good. With 150 lbs. compression, thats sounds like a new one, and should be great runner.
Most 3400's seem to be around 130-135 lb. range.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
I would prefer to purchase or trade through here instead of ebay. I have had some bad luck with that site lately. Bought a "great" running saw and it was junk. Thing had 90lbs of compression and missing have the stuff. It was an 036 and needs top handle and chain brake. But I did buy a 306A cylinder so we'll see.
 
sefh3 said:
By the time you buy the sled, truck, trailer, and all the equipment to go with it you into the a ton of money. Plus the weather we have seen lately with the lack of snow just doesn't justify the money. You could buy and or restore a ton of saws for that kind of money.

BTW: Anyone got a 3400 they want to get rid of. The one I'm working on now has both the choke rod and oiler broke off. Missing the air filter cover and the carb is missing the H screw, plus the muffler cover is missing. Hate to get rid of this good ole saw. It pulls 150ish with compression.
Click to expand...

Scott, I have the carb screw and the choke rod. Do you need the bracket and link for it also?

I do not have a air filter cover as I had buy one myself just recently from Scott at Chainsawr.

If you can find a cheap parts saw, that is the way to go for sure. I tried that myself, bought most of two of them but ended up putting one together out of them instead!

Did you find out about the rings?
 
Modifiedmark said:
Scott, I have the carb screw and the choke rod. Do you need the bracket and link for it also?

I do not have a air filter cover as I had buy one myself just recently from Scott at Chainsawr.

If you can find a cheap parts saw, that is the way to go for sure. I tried that myself, bought most of two of them but ended up putting one together out of them instead!

Did you find out about the rings?
Click to expand...

I don't need the bracket is was there. I'm looking at chainsawr right now. Still working on the rings. I do have some small poulan parts if you want to trade. I'll go out to the shop this afternoon and take some pics of the stuff I have.
 
Just a note Scott, incase you didn't allready know. The 3400,3700,4000 series of saws, the parts are about all interchangable, from one model to the other. About the only thing that isn't, is the piston size, and some 4000's have a slightly different pawl setup on the starter/flywheel.

P.S. The Craftsman version of these saws will work also!

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
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So is a craftsman 3.7 the same as a poulan 3700? and so forth... 3.4=3400? Sorry for my ignorance put this poulan stuff is something new to me but having a good time figuring it out for sure.
 
Well, you guys just answered one of my questions. It seems I have a Craftsman branded 2300 (2.3 cu) and have successfully rebuilt it. According to the original manual it should run a 16:1 fuel. I put some 50:1 in it before I read the manual of course, and it fired right up. Should I mix some 16:1 for it? Does fuel mix effect the performance or just the lube qualities? I'm going from just knowing saw basics to actually learning how to wrench on them myself so there are tons of questions (though many have been answered on this site...you guys are great!). Also, this came with the 16 inch bananna bar...how short can I go? I was actually thinking of putting a 12 inch on there for limbing. Thanks!
 
maestro said:
Well, you guys just answered one of my questions. It seems I have a Craftsman branded 2300 (2.3 cu) and have successfully rebuilt it. According to the original manual it should run a 16:1 fuel. I put some 50:1 in it before I read the manual of course, and it fired right up. Should I mix some 16:1 for it? Does fuel mix effect the performance or just the lube qualities? I'm going from just knowing saw basics to actually learning how to wrench on them myself so there are tons of questions (though many have been answered on this site...you guys are great!). Also, this came with the 16 inch bananna bar...how short can I go? I was actually thinking of putting a 12 inch on there for limbing. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Run good synthetic oil and in my opinion it's OK to use 50:1. The older saws often recommended 16:1 because of the oil quality of the time. Some folks prefer 40:1 for older saws. Lots of reasoning behind varying opinions. For all of those I'll refer you to the tons of oil threads on this site. Make sure whatever you run to understand proper carb adjustment procedures. A variation in the oil ratio will cause a slight variation in the amount of gas available to the engine. With the lower ratio, i.e. 40:1, you're providing more oil to the engine than at 50:1, but at the same time you're providing less gasoline, which is a "leaner" gas to air mixture. May need to readjust carb when moving from one ratio to another.

16" bar on this saw is probably fine for limbing as it will actually give you a better reach w/o bending over as much. But if you're planning on burying it in hardwood, 12"-14" would be better.

Steve
 
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Steve is right on the money! :)
I used to run 32:1 in my older Poulans. But I got a New 385xp and ran 50:1 in that. I use it ocasionally for milling also. So I thought this is crazy, all differen't mixes, so I went to the same mix for ALL my saws now. I use premium gas & Woodland Pro Synthetic at 40:1 . All run great on that mix!
From old to new. Makes life a whole lot simpler too..

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
OhioGregg said:
Steve is right on the money! :)
I used to run 32:1 in my older Poulans. But I got a New 385xp and ran 50:1 in that. I use it ocasionally for milling also. So I thought this is crazy, all differen't mixes, so I went to the same mix for ALL my saws now. I use premium gas & Woodland Pro Synthetic at 40:1 . All run great on that mix!
From old to new. Makes life a whole lot simpler too..

:cheers:
Gregg,
Click to expand...

Gregg, did the 385 oil requirements change? The older model 385 called for a three percent oil in the mix.
 
scottr said:
Gregg, did the 385 oil requirements change? The older model 385 called for a three percent oil in the mix.
Click to expand...

I bought my 385xp in Nov. 2008. The manual calls for 50:1

I used Husqvarna dino oil at 50:1 for couple gallons, but was using it milling for a good spell there, and many guys recemended going to 40:1 for milling, cause its hard on a saw. Runs wide open throttle for long periods of time.

So I decided to switch to synthetic oil at the same time, going on the recemendation of most now days in the milling hobby.:)

Thats when I decided to just make the switch in all my saws. I'm glad I did.
One mix for all, I mix 2 gal. at time.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
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