No need to change the sprocket as long as you stay with the same type of chain, ie. 3/8, or .325 with a similar profile. It should run stronger with a shorter bar.
Lee:cool2:
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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No need to change the sprocket as long as you stay with the same type of chain, ie. 3/8, or .325 with a similar profile. It should run stronger with a shorter bar.
Lee:cool2:
16" on that saw is much better, along with a muffler mod and some retuning that little saw will really wake up and go. Most any bar will work and this one should be fine Bailey's - Carlton 16" Hobby Champ Tiger Chainsaw Bar 56 Drive Links I'd also add get rid of the safety chain and go with some non safety probably Oregon 91....
Do these mods and that little saw (if in good shape) will run right with and comparable Stihl or Husky on the market and if parts are needed much cheaper that either.
This will include a non safety chain, not the best chain but will cut better than safety
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=BHC+16+EP50&catID=
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Islero
ArboristSite Operative
Lee, thank you!! Ilene :msp_smile:
Islero
ArboristSite Operative
I have a PP 260 42cc and I believe it came with a 18" 3/8 low profile. I changed mine to a 16" 3/8 Low profile and love it. It makes the saw cut great, light weight, and just really easy to maneuver and handle. Heck why should I use a big heavy saw on something like 12 inches in diameter or less when this saw will cut through it with a 16" bar and chain with no problem with reasonable speed.
Islero
ArboristSite Operative
zogger
Tree Freak
You know I confused your carb with the one on the 245a, I was working on it yesterday. I don't know where any governor might be on the 3400 carb. I just relooked at the ipl as well and nothing is jumping out at me.
Kostas, your right, there is no governor on your carb. Yours is a electronic ign and must be a very late model one. Most of the carbs on the 306/245 were HS-59A or B carbs that did have a governor.
A good rebuild on that carb will probably fix you up.
Their nice saws when set up. I pull the muffler, put it in a vice, get a torch and heat the seem up cherry red and pry it open all the way around then you can drill the diffuser (baffle) all the way through, go as big as you can without connecting all the holes, and on the clutch side by the top of the muffler I cut a slit about inch or so long, then reheat it and crimp the seem again. Also cut open as big as you can the air filter cover, then adjust the carb. It makes this saw run 200% better.
Here is a pic
morpheus847
New Member
On a 3400 would anybody have anyntrics to remove the clutch side seal with
Out having to split the case.
Out having to split the case.
I just a small blade screw driver about the size of the carb adj. screws and pry it out, works every time.
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
nice!!!
nice to see ya Dave!!!! ya always do nice mods!!!!
Their nice saws when set up. I pull the muffler, put it in a vice, get a torch and heat the seem up cherry red and pry it open all the way around then you can drill the diffuser (baffle) all the way through, go as big as you can without connecting all the holes, and on the clutch side by the top of the muffler I cut a slit about inch or so long, then reheat it and crimp the seem again. Also cut open as big as you can the air filter cover, then adjust the carb. It makes this saw run 200% better.
Here is a pic
nice to see ya Dave!!!! ya always do nice mods!!!!
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yea!!!!
I have a 260 comin to me soon from a member here it is already muffler moded i have the the brand new 16 inch bar and chain waitin on it!!!!!
I have a 260 comin to me soon from a member here it is already muffler moded i have the the brand new 16 inch bar and chain waitin on it!!!!!
Islero
ArboristSite Operative
Their nice saws when set up. I pull the muffler, put it in a vice, get a torch and heat the seem up cherry red and pry it open all the way around then you can drill the diffuser (baffle) all the way through, go as big as you can without connecting all the holes, and on the clutch side by the top of the muffler I cut a slit about inch or so long, then reheat it and crimp the seem again. Also cut open as big as you can the air filter cover, then adjust the carb. It makes this saw run 200% better.
Here is a pic
dave76,
Thanks for the recommendation on modifying the muffler. At this point, my saw is at the Stihl dealer who is also the service center for Poulan. According to the Stihl dealer, I scored the piston/cylinder because I did not adjust the carb for the New Mexican altitude (5800 ft. above sea level). The requirement to adjust the carb is no where mentioned in the instruction manual. Poulan brushed me off, so I call the Husquavarna headquarters and informed them of the problem and it's rep instructed me to take the saw back to the dealer. It has been a week and the Stihl dealer tech has yet to touch my saw.
I am considering purchasing a Dolmar 420 but the lack of a dealer in my area has me concerned. I may get a Stihl MS 250, but research reveals the Dolmar to be far superior to the Stihl and less expensive. Again, thanks for your recommendation, Islero :msp_smile:
Islero
ArboristSite Operative
I have a 260 comin to me soon from a member here it is already muffler moded i have the the brand new 16 inch bar and chain waitin on it!!!!!
stubnail67, I sure wish I could say the same about my 4218avx. I sure miss cutting, although I do have a Stilh MS 180 electric chainsaw. I just cannot go out into the field and cut firewood. Islero :msp_smile:
zogger
Tree Freak
--how far have you gotten with the rebuild? What do you lack?
I'm having a little problem with a 2.8 Craftsman chainsaw, it starts up pretty good but just runs a few seconds and dies. It restarts just fine using the choke but as soon as you push the choke in it revs up and then dies. I cleaned and put a kit in the carburetor, setting the inlet lever where it should be, it has a new fuel line which I pulled out and checked for leaks or being stopped up, it was okay as was the filter. I then thought it might be leaking air at the intake boot so I took it off and checked it and it was okay also. I also put on a new pulse hose. Any thoughts on what to do next?
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
I should check compression first but since it does run, even for a few seconds I figured it was good enough. It does get fuel up to the carburetor because I can see it in the line all the way to the carb. It might have a passage in the carb that is blocked, not letting fuel get any farther than that. I may try taking it apart and cleaning it again and if that doesn't work I'll try to find another carb just like that one. I think it's a HDA or something like that. I'm wondering about the tank vent also.
The last one I had that did that had a crack in the fuel line nipple right next to the carb and I only found it when I turned the saw on it's side and it started leaking.
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