Nik's Poulan Thread

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Still haven't figured out how yours got broken when you dropped yours, dropped one twice this morning cause my fingers were cold and had no problem.
I tried fit them back on the piston and missed the little stops and they both broke in about 6 pieces ,was like they where very brittle

Steve
 
I got into a 3400 chain brake over the last few days because the brake band was dragging badly. I've never really given them a second look before. After looking at it and trying to figure what was wrong, the pawl (trip lever inside the cover) was worn. The further it wears, the more the band tightens up. I did manage to find a PN in the PP375 IPL but it's NLA and likely as rare as hens teeth.
I made one up and it seems to work fine. I need to make another. I'm not sure how anyone would wear one out.
 
I got into a 3400 chain brake over the last few days because the brake band was dragging badly. I've never really given them a second look before. After looking at it and trying to figure what was wrong, the pawl (trip lever inside the cover) was worn. The further it wears, the more the band tightens up. I did manage to find a PN in the PP375 IPL but it's NLA and likely as rare as hens teeth.
I made one up and it seems to work fine. I need to make another. I'm not sure how anyone would wear one out.
Hey Tim, That may be what was wrong with mine if you remember me bringing it down some time ago. It does seem better now than it was.

Lrr
 
The one I made on the left. A good OEM one on the right. 1/8" thick steel. I left a little more material on the left side for strength as it doesn't interfere with anything.

I used the old one clamped to the steel as a template to drill the hole. I put the good OE one over the holes on the piece of steel and spray painted over it.

Cut around it a bit at a time with a hacksaw so I could have something to clamp in the vice and a handle to hold onto when I was grinding and filing away the material.

I finished the functional side with a 5/32" chain file. It didn't take long. I thought of hardening the pawl but decided against it in case it fractured when the brake tripped.

If you want to try it, I can send you a pdf scan of the good one and you can cut it out and glue it to a piece of 1/8" steel and paint over it and remove it as a template.

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There all kinds of ring expanders but these cheap little plier expanders work well if you're careful.
View attachment 467424
You beat me to it, same pair I use all the time at work when I replace pistons, was going to take a picture of mine and post them. Mine have installed a few hundred and still going, you just have to learn how to use them to keep from snapping rings.

Steve
 
Nice work thanks for taking the time to post it up. Where is the wear point(s)?

Scan would be great

Thanks,

lee

Go left along the surface above the top hole to the notch. The top of the notch wears and lets the pin to notch location creep up which lets the brake band close in. The higher the pin is in that notch, the tighter the band.

Set. Pin location to lever low in notch. Brake off. Band tight to outer posts.
4 set.JPG

Tripped. pin location to lever is high. Brake on (band tight)

3 tripped.JPG
 
If you can't find one, I know where to get one. It'll cost me $15-20 depending on who's working. Let me know. You talking about the whole starter housing?
I just need the pulley
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