When I was younger we built fence with creosoted posts and made corners with old railroad ties. We cut them and carried them on our shoulders and got covered with creosote many many times. I will take all precautions, but I am more worried about the cabin falling on me than creosote getting me. I will try to get some pictures of the cabin to add to this thread.
So what your saying is that you didn't learn anything by doing that ?
We are aware of the problems with the creosote, and will try to get above the butt ends and into the area that is less heavily covered and weathered. We have come to a juncture where we REALLY need to get these logs replaced as soon as possible or we may loose the whole cabin.
Seriously, are you a moron ? I can't believe your actually typing that, but to each their own. It seems apparent that you must have failed your retarded credential when you were younger, or your mother dropped you on your head when you were a baby.
We actually did have a great guy who lives about 25 miles away say that he would be happy to saw the logs with his Wood Mizer if it didn't have to much creosote on them, but these have lots of tar like residue which we are told is creosote. I have a 30 inch bar on the 920 and thought I'd use that and build a second oiler on the end of it. Also if we get the GB I can order it from Baileys which is a sponsor and a delight to work with. JR
That fact a professional sawyer doesn't want to touch the logs SHOULD tell you something, but you insist on saving a nickel and use them.
You want honest advice, get some clean logs no matter what you do. If you want them to match the logs there, you will need to broad axe them. Those logs are not adz'd they are hewn with a broad axe.
Personally I don't see it as being that difficult, although few people are alive that know how to build this style, there are a few.
Are the logs oak ?
I don't think it looks as bad as others or you have made out. Albeit there is some work to do...most of the logs don't look that bad. Looks like a wall was pulled out from the backside next to the door. For someone that doesn't know WTF they are doing, there is a lot of work.
1) get Charles McRaven's book, a lot of great info in it, too bad he died several years ago.
2) don't worry about using green logs, worry about using creosote logs...my $0.02
3) each log that needs to be replaced, you'll need to jack the logs up on top enough so that you can get the rotted log out. McRaven has some pics of using bottle jacks, but you also need to create a joist that will go under the logs being lifted. There are companies that move homes and they could be of great help to you, if you aren't able to fabricate your own lifting jacks. Each log will be fairly heavy, I would guess a full length log will weigh about 1000-1500 lbs. You will need enough room to put the log in, and be able to scribe the corner. You will need to fit the bottom, and then scribe the top from the upper log. Doesn't need to be perfect, you can get away with quite a bit on this type of structure.
4) before you do anything, clean out all the old chinking/motor and make sure you get it out of the log faces also. It looks like the previous owners put mortar in the rotted areas of some of the logs that need to be replaced.
5) The sky is not falling, the home doesn't look like it's going to fall over anytime soon. I wouldn't worry too much about getting those creosote logs in place ASAP, in fact, I would get rid of them and never bring them back to the property, they are not worth having around with the danger they present.
What I don't understand is why is the foundation is in such good condition ? Are you restoring the house on the current foundation ? Or are you moving to a new location also?
I would get a log craftsman to cut replacement logs for you. You will pay a bit now, but with the little bit of knowledge you have shown on log home building you might end up paying a lot in the end if you do it the way you are planning with the creosote logs.