Northern Tool Skidding tongs

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rwoods

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Before I go trespassing again in the logging forum, I thought I would asked my question here and show off my latest attachment to my fork lift rack. First the question, I bought a pair of the largest skidding tongs Northern Tool sells. I never could get it to bite into the wood enough to move a log (even a small log). I figured it was because I work alone and have no way to preload it. So I built a boom attachment to my forklift rack, thinking that I could lift the log first and then pull it. Well I tried it out today on the only "log" I had at the house - a small half rotten black locust snag. I could lift it but I couldn't pull it. I even hammered the points into the wood and was able to pull it a little ways before the tongs just pull loose (the wood is not tearing out - the tongs just aren't pinching). I was a little boy when my dad logged but I remember he would just lower the tongs over a log, lift and go. I also believe his tongs had more of an upward angle to the points than mine. Is it just me or are the tongs defective? Thanks.

Here are the pictures of my detachable log boom. I have a pair of forks that simply hang on the bottom rail of the rack. I use the forks for moving, lifting and stacking logs.

Ron

Log is simply hanging from the tongs - points are not dug into wood. Wood isn't too heavy as tractor can lift entire snag off the ground by pivoting it against the bottom of the rack. Nor is log too hard as I can drive the points in without much hammering.

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Shot of boom attachment.

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Shot of tong points.

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Another shot of setup.

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Another shot of tongs.

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View attachment 240194View attachment 240195View attachment 240196View attachment 240197View attachment 240198
 
I did a net search and found this pic. Notice the upward angle of the points? I don't know if this would help you. But this is my idea of a log lifting tongs.
pic54b.jpg
 
Thanks that illustrates my thinking - mine are not only cheap but they aren't constructed properly. Ron


They might be okay for straight skidding with a constant pull on smooth ground with extremely soft wood but, other than that, I don't see much use for them. Maybe if you put a sharper point on the tips it might help but without a steeper angle they still won't bite very well.

The pictures that manyhobbies posted is a little closer to what you want. Bailey's sells them.

I like your skidding setup. A lot of guys drill a small hole in one tong and run a piece of haywire from the tong to the tractor. You can trip the tongs that way and not have to be climbing up and down.


Edit...I looked at your pictures again...try getting the points a little "higher" on the log, maybe just a bit below the maximum diameter. It looks like your tongs are closing on the log before the spikes get a real good bite.

But I'd still look for a better set of tongs.
 
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Maybe you could heat up the parts that you want to bend with acetaline torches and bend the point up a little bit ? I wouldn't want to make it to brittle though. You could also sharpen the points up again as someone else said in another post. Wish you the best of luck!
 
With that lift boom on your tractor you will get tongs to work better than straight ground skidding, but they have to be shaped right. The only ones that I have seen that are the right shape from the git/go are called "Super log tongs"

The ones you have and almost every one sold anywhere have to be completly reshaped to work properly. Do a search for the Super log tongs to see the shape you need. $200+ A farrier could reshape and retemper yours. They would be usable but not high quality, depends on how much you will use them. Be careful, if they are shaped right and sharp its like a couple of good fish hooks.They want to penetrate.Even with good ones, some logs would do better with a chain and slip hook.
 
They might be okay for straight skidding with a constant pull on smooth ground with extremely soft wood but, other than that, I don't see much use for them. Maybe if you put a sharper point on the tips it might help but without a steeper angle they still won't bite very well.

The pictures that manyhobbies posted is a little closer to what you want. Bailey's sells them.

I like your skidding setup. A lot of guys drill a small hole in one tong and run a piece of haywire from the tong to the tractor. You can trip the tongs that way and not have to be climbing up and down.


Edit...I looked at your pictures again...try getting the points a little "higher" on the log, maybe just a bit below the maximum diameter. It looks like your tongs are closing on the log before the spikes get a real good bite.But I'd still look for a better set of tongs.

I am glad you posted. I thought I might have to go to the logging forum to get your input. The log is just sitting on the tongs. I did that just so I could lift the log and take a picture. I have hammered the points in just below the maximum circumference and was able to move the law a short distance but that was it. The wood I move with my little tractor is typical much heavier than this little snag (16' to 20' oak logs 24"+ tapering to 15"=18"). The tractor will pick up 2000# or so against the rack before the front wheels come off the ground. My purpose in the skid was to more easily move my larger logs and keep the tractor's frontend on the ground. If NH won't exchange the tongs, I'll try to bend them a little. The points are fairly sharp and easy to drive into the wood so I think it is just the angle that is off. Even if they worked they are certainly made for occassional use. Thanks for the advice, Ron
 
With that lift boom on your tractor you will get tongs to work better than straight ground skidding, but they have to be shaped right. The only ones that I have seen that are the right shape from the git/go are called "Super log tongs"

The ones you have and almost every one sold anywhere have to be completly reshaped to work properly. Do a search for the Super log tongs to see the shape you need. $200+ A farrier could reshape and retemper yours. They would be usable but not high quality, depends on how much you will use them. Be careful, if they are shaped right and sharp its like a couple of good fish hooks.They want to penetrate.Even with good ones, some logs would do better with a chain and slip hook.

I was going for cheap (as in 1/3 the price of good skidding tongs and about 1/6 the price of lifting tongs). Even at that I'm not sure I got what I paid for. Somebody makes tongs here in Tennessee I just need to find a dealer. I'll google Super Log Tongs and see what I get. Thanks, Ron
 
I was going for cheap (as in 1/3 the price of good skidding tongs and about 1/6 the price of lifting tongs). Even at that I'm not sure I got what I paid for. Somebody makes tongs here in Tennessee I just need to find a dealer. I'll google Super Log Tongs and see what I get. Thanks, Ron

Take the old tongs and hang them on the front of the barn. Barn art. ;)
 
Pretty sure I bought those in pic "G" - American made ran me about $100 for 20"-ers. Dixie? Mine has the hook end rather than the ring.

Never skidded with them, I've only used them to lift onto the splitter and they worked great. Didn't drop any rounds lifting, but I mostly grabbed on the cut ends so apples and oranges I guess. I do hope to skid with them when needed, just don't have the need.

Really good tip on the haywire, definitely a lot of on/ off the tractor, so rep inbound for that.

OP - very cool boom, looks simple and effective. Might need to borrow that design!
 
Pretty sure I bought those in pic "G" - American made ran me about $100 for 20"-ers. Dixie? Mine has the hook end rather than the ring.

Never skidded with them, I've only used them to lift onto the splitter and they worked great. Didn't drop any rounds lifting, but I mostly grabbed on the cut ends so apples and oranges I guess. I do hope to skid with them when needed, just don't have the need.

Really good tip on the haywire, definitely a lot of on/ off the tractor, so rep inbound for that.

OP - very cool boom, looks simple and effective. Might need to borrow that design!

Thanks. $9 of scrap steel, $50 for welding and drilling the 3/4" holes, $42 for three 3/4" pins and the twisted clevis, and $25 for spreading the clevis opening. The forklift was a bit more expensive but it is really handy. I used to use a heavy carryall frame (3" heavy angle construction for a much larger tractor) but even with this little tractor I kept twisting it like a prezel so after three or four rebuilds, I had this frame built and bought some scrap forks ($100) that simply hook over the 1/2" flat bar (bottom of the frame). Ron
 
"First the question, I bought a pair of the largest skidding tongs Northern Tool sells."



They are too big for that stick. Use them on the appropiate size log and they work better.
 
Yeah, those tongs wont work shaped like that. If you know of a blacksmith in your area, he could fix then right up.

I have the set marked G in the other photo. US made and work great.

Love the boom!
 
Update

I haven't been able to find a local dealer for Dixie tongs although they are made less than 200 miles from here. But while out of town today I dropped in Northern Tool and they agree to exchange the tongs (or give me store credit) even though I had no receipt and my purchase was at least a year ago. They didn't have any of the Dixie's in stock so I just swap for an identical pair except the new ones have angled points instead of straight points. I tried them out tonight on the same snag and they work great - just drop them and lift. I also tried them at maximum capacity (32") on my chainsaw tuning stub log - gripped perfectly. So I guess I am good to go. :msp_thumbsup: No pictures as it is dark now. Thanks for all the replies. Ron
 
I agree the tongs tips are not at the correct angle, plus to me the points are not sharp enough to really get the initial dig into the log. Much like the points on a hookaroon. I have an old pair of tongs that was used to lift cotton bales in the old days. I know they are not used for logging but I did and they worked pretty well considering. I didn't get to carried away with it cuz I knew they would break with too much pressure. They've just been hanging on the well house for the last 6 years or so. Had no need to get down. :msp_smile:
 

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