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TRTermite

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I would be looking at issues with carb. Needle arm setting "Should be OK" if it is holding pressure. At what pressure does it pop off? 10 -15 psi? Does it look like previous owner was in the carb? Put wrong fuel pump in or installed it wrong? Low mix needle in High mix port ( not sure if your carb will allow that).
Testing the jets and welch plugs are challenging my pay grade but IMHO there has to be a critter in there holding the flood gate open. Possibly a china carb to verify but for a few extra $ A new Walbro/Zama .
If your metering diaphragm is letting gas through (actuating the needle arm/needle) you have to be getting good impulse so a worn piston or rings or even seals would weaken the impulse which in turn would slow fuel flow not Flood the cylinder.
If you don't replace the piston I would entertain at least polishing it to minimize future aluminum transfer.
Some body with more savvy will hopefully pop in and have the "RIGHT" answer.
 

flatsfisher

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I would be looking at issues with carb. Needle arm setting "Should be OK" if it is holding pressure. At what pressure does it pop off? 10 -15 psi? Does it look like previous owner was in the carb? Put wrong fuel pump in or installed it wrong? Low mix needle in High mix port ( not sure if your carb will allow that).
Testing the jets and welch plugs are challenging my pay grade but IMHO there has to be a critter in there holding the flood gate open. Possibly a china carb to verify but for a few extra $ A new Walbro/Zama .
If your metering diaphragm is letting gas through (actuating the needle arm/needle) you have to be getting good impulse so a worn piston or rings or even seals would weaken the impulse which in turn would slow fuel flow not Flood the cylinder.
If you don't replace the piston I would entertain at least polishing it to minimize future aluminum transfer.
Some body with more savvy will hopefully pop in and have the "RIGHT" answer.
totally agree. I have the carb all apart and everything looks good including the needle arm setting height, but I ordered a carb kit anyway and have already cleaned it and shot carb cleaner thru all the passages. also going to do new rings or even a new piston if mine is bad, which I am on the fence about. the only NOS piston I can find is 90 bucks with shipping. not really a fan of aftermarket pistons or cylinders.
 

TRTermite

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totally agree. I have the carb all apart and everything looks good including the needle arm setting height, but I ordered a carb kit anyway and have already cleaned it and shot carb cleaner thru all the passages. also going to do new rings or even a new piston if mine is bad, which I am on the fence about. the only NOS piston I can find is 90 bucks with shipping. not really a fan of aftermarket pistons or cylinders.
A Meteor Piston will come with Caber Rings and to my understanding most if not all saw porters don't blink an eye if a saw has a meteor/caber combo. Just need to do some online shopping.
 

burnses

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unless you have excessive ring land clearance i would re ring that piston and run it. There is a small spring to hold the choke flap away from the carb opening when the choke is off. If its missing the choke will get sucked against the opening every time you pull it over..just a thought

good luck
 

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so, finally got my new parts and installed them. new OEM rings, base gasket, circlips, wrist pin bearing, walbro carb kit, plug. still passes pressure and vacuum tests. saw still drips gas out of the muffler, soaks the spark plug and floods out immediately. will not fire. great spark.

I pressure tested the carb with the mitey vac at the fuel inlet and it is losing pressure through the impulse inlet. if I put my finger over the impulse inlet the carb holds pressure. I then put a short piece of hose on the fuel inlet, and I can blow right thru the carb and it goes out the impulse inlet as fast as I can blow. don't remember this happening when I pressure tested the carb on the 036 a few months ago. checked the gaskets and diaphragms again against the carb IPL and I put it together right.

is this normal? if not is there a check valve that may be bad that would cause this? to be clear, when I installed the carb kit, I did not remove the old welch plug.
 

SteveSr

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so, finally got my new parts and installed them. new OEM rings, base gasket, circlips, wrist pin bearing, walbro carb kit, plug. still passes pressure and vacuum tests. saw still drips gas out of the muffler, soaks the spark plug and floods out immediately. will not fire. great spark.

I pressure tested the carb with the mitey vac at the fuel inlet and it is losing pressure through the impulse inlet. if I put my finger over the impulse inlet the carb holds pressure. I then put a short piece of hose on the fuel inlet, and I can blow right thru the carb and it goes out the impulse inlet as fast as I can blow. don't remember this happening when I pressure tested the carb on the 036 a few months ago. checked the gaskets and diaphragms again against the carb IPL and I put it together right.

is this normal? if not is there a check valve that may be bad that would cause this? to be clear, when I installed the carb kit, I did not remove the old welch plug.
You've got a problem. Have you got the diaphragm and gasket installed in the correct order? The diaphragm goes next to the carb body.
 

flatsfisher

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this would be funny if I hadn't taken this carb apart so many times. :) I mentioned early in this thread that the throttle butterfly wasn't opening all the way. the reason was that a new fuel line had been put in and it was put in upside down. there was too much fuel line under the carb, and it was interfering with the throttle linkage. also, when I redid the carb, I noticed that the old gaskets looked great, and the diaphragms were really soft.

when I got my carb kit, as usual it came with several diaphragms for different model carbs. I had taken out the old one and put in the same new one. and still had the same problem as before. it finally occurred to me that the PO had put in a new fuel line and carb kit, and he had used the wrong diaphragm, which I had copied. just now I changed it to the blue one and its running like a top. hope I learned something from this.
 

flatsfisher

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my understanding is that the blue diaphragms are ethanol resistant (I don't use ethanol gas in power equipment). was I supposed to use the white one with the blue one? thought I read that somewhere a while back.
PXL_20221130_164911094.jpg
 

SteveSr

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my understanding is that the blue diaphragms are ethanol resistant (I don't use ethanol gas in power equipment). was I supposed to use the white one with the blue one? thought I read that somewhere a while back.
View attachment 1036417
I don't know what the white one is. It looks like a pump diaphragm that is missing the 2 flapper check valves.

Normally, the white (Teflon) one is preferred as it pumps more fuel and is ethanol resistant. I think that the blue one is also ethanol resistant. In any case you only use ONE (1) pump diaphragm.
 

SteveSr

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if I'm translating this right this is .325"/.063? there is a number 6 on the drive links. the bar groove was worn so I squeezed it a bit. chain fits good now.
View attachment 1036455
That is now ancient shark-fin safety chain. Bin it!

To check bar groove wear clean the groove and measure the groove width about 1/4" down with feeler gauges. The bottom of the groove is probably untouched and will measure as new.

The sprocket should have pitch marked on it. the bar also has gauge, pitch, and # drive links stamped/etched near the tail of the bar.
 
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pretty dirty but I like to clean old saws. good compression, very bright spark on my tester, and its sure getting fuel. in fact, the spark plug gets soaked, and fuel runs out of the muffler in just a few pulls. piston and cylinder walls look good thru the tiny little exhaust port. what would cause it to draw so much fuel? or maybe it's a bad plug. I would think the PO would have tried a new plug before selling this for peanuts. the plug is used but looks good. it's a champion CJ6.
View attachment 1032690 View attachment 1032691 View attachment 1032692 View attachment 1032693
Had one do the same thing. Mine was the needle in carb
 

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