Now the technical questions....Jonsered 2159

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IBwoodtick2

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Morning,

A couple of questions regarding the 2159......

The manual states you should grease the needle bearings on the cluth assembly weekly if the saw has a fulltime job.
Can someone walk me through the procedure to remove the outboard clutch on this unit.

Also, I've looking around for the tech manual online but haven't run across a site that offers them....anyone have thoughts on where I could locate the shop manual? John
 
You simply press the grease in the crank, there is a hole to lead the grease to the needle bearings on the clutch.
This require a pointed grease gun, you can get it and proper grease at your dealer, or other HVA/Jonny Dealer, I would think they could show you how as well.
 
Mange said:
You simply press the grease in the crank, there is a hole to lead the grease to the needle bearings on the clutch.
This require a pointed grease gun, you can get it and proper grease at your dealer, or other HVA/Jonny Dealer, I would think they could show you how as well.
Mange,im quite sure there is no hole on the crankshaft end of 2159.I have to verify.
 
I would assume the 2159 has the same crank as the Husky 359. If so, as Mange said, use a pointed grease gun to lube the bearing via the hole right in the center of the clutch.

Now, can someone tell me just what a full-circle crank is? I can't find anything that actually describes that.
 
Blowdown1 said:
I would assume the 2159 has the same crank as the Husky 359. If so, as Mange said, use a pointed grease gun to lube the bearing via the hole right in the center of the clutch.

Now, can someone tell me just what a full-circle crank is? I can't find anything that actually describes that.
Look the adress in my preceding message,go to the crank pic,you will understand.Full circle crank brings crankcase compression higher by reducing the crankcase volume.Its a performance related.
 
HiOctane said:
Mange,im quite sure there is no hole on the crankshaft end of 2159.I have to verify.

There is a hole on my 357, and that has the same crank as you admitted.
 
So would there be any way to add the full circle "things" to a 359 crank? I would assume it is not that simple. Is the stroke on the 357 shorter than the 359 or is it the bore that is smaller?
 
Blowdown1 said:
So would there be any way to add the full circle "things" to a 359 crank? I would assume it is not that simple. Is the stroke on the 357 shorter than the 359 or is it the bore that is smaller?
357:bore 46 x stroke 34mm
359: 47 x 34 mm
Same stroke,same crankcase,same crankshaft w/o the full circle.You can install them on your 359,they fit thight on crank weights,but i dont know if its worth because 359 has diff porting .
 
leave the bells off of the 359 , once ported the 359 is just as fast as a ported 357 or just maybe a touch faster than the 357 cause the 359 has more torque than a 357
 
EHP, have you ever tired a full-circle crank in a 359 AND ported it? Or is it a matter of the porting on the 357 being so different that it wouldn't achieve the intended results?

I don't know enough about 2-stroke engines to really know how closed loops, crankcase volume boosting compression, etc all contribute to the end result; POWER.
 
the problem with full circle cranks in a chainsaw is that the crankcase to so small to start with and the full circle just makes them have a smaller volume .
The problem with this small volume is you cannot get as much air into the crankcase because of the full circle crank , no air , no power .
one thing that is good about full circle cranks is with no air you donot need as much fuel.
I am going to take the bells off my alcohol 357 and see if it gets anymore power which I am sure it will
 

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