off topic small engine help

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MRNDAD

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Getting gas....check.....getting fire to the plug....check...if those two things are good....check the compression...


:chainsaw:
 
I had a Weedeater brand one that started doing that suddenly. Hard to start, overfueling, eventually tank would go dry in two days.

figured out it had a crack or opened seam between gas tank and crankcase (part of same glued/sonic welded cases). Would run with both carb screws fully closed. Don't need no stinkin' carburetor, just pour the gas direct into the crankcase.

It was many years old, retired from lawncare work, so got our moneys worth, but into the bin it went.

k
 
Hello,
The weedeater is dead. Completely dead. Floods after a few pulls. No idea anymore.
Gas may not be making it into the combustion chamber.

(1) Remove spark plug
(2) Add a teaspoon or two of gas right into the spark plug hole
(3) Replace plug
(4) Try to start it with choke off

If she runs for awhile, that may unclog whatever is blocking fuel to the chamber. If it does not run, then I question whether you have any spark at all.
 
Hello,
I'm hoping someone can help with a 21 cc echo weed eater problem. Problem is, it worked fine yesterday, won't even try to start today. No changes, same mix, same everything. It's getting a spark and getting fuel, just won't turn over. It seems very flooded, to the point gas sprays out the exhaust after a few pulls. I have the plug out for the night, to dry it all out, and will see if it starts tomorrow. Not sure what went wrong. Any ideas? Thanks.

If it is spitting fuel out the muffler then something is causing it to flood. Any extra fuel added in through the plug hole or the carb is only going to make it worse.

My first thoughts would be to remove/inspect/replace the air filter. If it is in decent shape then look to be sure the choke butterfly is opening correctly in the "RUN" position.

If the pump diaphram is cracked or has a pinhole the vaccum from the crankcase could be pulling raw fuel in through the impulse line. A carb kit should put you back in business. That pinhole could also be letting fuel drain into the carb from the tank while it it sitting.

There is a chance that it it so flooded that any subsequent attempts to start it with the choke on are only compounding the problem. Open the choke and pull it several times maybe even 20-30 times to see if you can clear the case of fuel. If you think it is getting way to much to start with pour out the tank into a container of some kind and start pulling some more. If there is no gas in it there is no way it can be getting to much.
 
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For starters if its so flooded that gas is coming out of muffler then you need to take some time to get all the gas out of the crankcase. I would empty gastank,pull plug,start pulling rope while turning machine upside down and in different directions with throttle wide open.Then leave sit for a while. Maybe blow some shop air in it if you have a compressor. Then begin you diagnoses.:)
 
Did you recently reload the line by any chance. I did that one time on a Homelite trimmer and it wouldn't start. Turned out I left the line too long and it wasn't turning over fast enough. Cut a few inches off and it fired right up. Drove me nuts.
 
Think the coil is done. Only sparks every 12 - 15 pulls, with the kill disconnected. Am I on to something?

It might be the airgap is to wide. I use a dollar bill to set the coil/flywheel gap. It might be a bit on the tight side but usually works if there isnt any slop in the crank bearings. If there is much slop I double the thickness so it doesn't drag the flywheel. I don't know how some small engines have run in the past the gap was so wide. After setting the gap they did seem to start much easier. I will usually sand the magnets lightly if they show much rust. This helps to help improve the spark.

The fact that it sparks at all is a good sign. It still sounds like to much fuel getting in there if there is gas spitting from the muffler after a few pulls.
 
Initially it had spark ? what method are you using to check the spark ? Is it less intermittant after setting the gap ?

Going back over some of the other suggestions:
Have you drained the gas, pulled the plug, checked the compression, checked the color of the plug, noted the color of the spark, let it sit to clear fumes, pulled it with no plug to clear the fumes, tryed it with no gas cap or checked the air filter/choke? (I hope I didn't forget any.)

Could you have picked up water in the gas overnight or when you refuelled it to start using it again the next day ?
 
I suggest you drain the gas so no gas is going to the carb. Then pull the plug and try to get all the gas out of the crankcase. Im thinking you have it flooded pretty bad. Then once its dry try dribbling some mied gas in carb and see if it will run or tey to run. Go from there.:)
 
Try pulling the carb off, remove the end plates and clean real good. Pay special attention to needle valve area. May be some dirt that worked its way in holding the needle valve partially open. Hope this helps.
 
A new plug never hurts. Checking for water in the gas doesn't either.

My daughter bought a new mower not long ago. They tried it out the day they bought it. It pulled over and started easily enough. The next day they got it out to use it. They filled it up emptying the last of the gas into the tank and nothing. If it was primed it might hit a few pops and that was it. So they loaded it up and brought it to me to make it work. I fiddled around with it some , pulled the filter, clean and dry. Checked the plug, it was wet. I got out a new one checked the gap and tried it. Poured out the gas and saw nothing noticable in the container. Removed the tank/carb and finished pouring it out and found a 1/4 cup of water in it. Put the tank/carb back on and filled with fresh gas it fired off and ran like a top. Just like the day before. I don't remeber there being any water from the exhaust but the plug was wet, dark and smelled like gas.

It turns out their can sits under the end of the carport and must have gotten rain water in it since they last bought gas. When they emptied their can into the tank any water in the can went right in there with it. It was kind of funny to hear her read him the riot act for doing that. She sure sounded like her mother that afternoon.

All I'm saying is that nearly everyone that read yor post and responded is offering good advice from their experience. go down through the line and create a checklist, try it all to the best of your ability and post back the results. By trial and error the problem is most likely to get solved. Start with the cheap stuff and move upwards till you either find it or decide to replace it.

If the spark seems weak the plug may be fouled or partially foulded, replace it.
If it is getting to much gas (which BTW will foul a plug) dump it all out so there is no way of continueing to get to much in there and start pulling with the throttle and choke open to clear it. Pull the plug and it will pull over easier. Just be careful that the gas doesnt spray on you and ignite causing severe injury. After 15-20 pulls re-install the plug and try it some more to see if it pops. If it does try fresh gas not the stuff you dumped out. That 50 cents worth of stale gas isn't worth the aggrivation if that was the cause of the problem.

If the problem continues after putting a little fresh fuel mix in then start to think about carburator problems.

If we don't know what you have tried so far we will keep resuggesting the same things again sending you in circles which isn't exactly productive for you or anyone trying to help.

For the most part it is usually something simple or easily overlooked. Eliminating what it isn't will get you closer to what it is
 
Did you recently reload the line by any chance. I did that one time on a Homelite trimmer and it wouldn't start. Turned out I left the line too long and it wasn't turning over fast enough. Cut a few inches off and it fired right up. Drove me nuts.

:agree2: It could even be to much trimmerline slowing down the motor.
 
Not sure what the voltage is supposed to be but your description of how you tested for spark has me confused.

Just to clarify, you do need to ground the threads of the plug against the jug/head in order for it to spark.

Also make sure it sparks where it is supposed to. I have seen on a lot of old fouled plugs that it will spark down inside the body and not out to the tip. It usually don't help to clean either. Perhaps it is sparking down inside and you're not seeing it.

Also the spark should be blue-white, and not orange. Orange is not hot enough.
 
Hello,
I've bought a new plug, and I will try it tonight, just to eliminate the plug completely. I did not know they could spark inside the body.

Just make sure you ground the threads to the head or it wont spark
 

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