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DanMan1 said:
1) "R valve makes very little sence when it is a conduction type heat your trying to hold,"??? Please explain.

2) "in the summer every 3 to 6 days I put very dry wood in..." So..... you're saying in the summer you can let your boiler burn for 6 days, then feed it some more wood and all's well?

Yes please explain. If water is inside the duct tape area then i must of had a leak ( which I didn't ) because both ends of the pipes were sealed with about 2 feet of foam.
 
ktm rider said:
Yes please explain. If water is inside the duct tape area then i must of had a leak ( which I didn't ) because both ends of the pipes were sealed with about 2 feet of foam.


Does the ground have water in it????
 
DanMan1 said:
1) "R valve makes very little sence when it is a conduction type heat your trying to hold,"??? Please explain.

2) "in the summer every 3 to 6 days I put very dry wood in..." So..... you're saying in the summer you can let your boiler burn for 6 days, then feed it some more wood and all's well?


Ok DANMAN,

1)
"If your dealer talks about R-values for undergound insulation--walk away! R-value is a measurement of Convection heat transfer. Underground pipes have no convection heat transfer; he's only proving himself ignorant. You need to be an educated buyer. With underground piping you are only concerned with conduction and radiation"

That is from cozy heat systems, if you want more info on conduction and convection heat, we mite have to talk on the phone.

2) Yes 6 days at the most, thats only with the hot water heater, that I didnt even run this year only ran it last year. Hot tub it likes its wood. People with a pool they like the wood also.
 
ktm rider said:
Yes please explain. If water is inside the duct tape area then i must of had a leak ( which I didn't ) because both ends of the pipes were sealed with about 2 feet of foam.


I like this statement on the BTU loss.. I know alot of people that do ther own pipe underground it it dosent work well at all.

When using outside heating sources of any kind it's necessary to transfer the heat energy through a set of supply and return lines underground with minimal heat loss. An unbelievable amount of heat energy can be lost to the ground with poor quality insulation or systems that do not protect from moisture. It's extremely important to use an underground system that is very well insulated and water tight, also the supply and return lines need to be seperated. I can't stress that enough. So much heat energy is being wasted in this country by the use of "cheap" or "homemade" insulation products. 1% of heat loss in 100' is equivalent to about 3000 Btu. Don't cut corners here. You only want to dig up your yard once.
 
Butch,

I would think that an indoor wood boiler might be the ticket for your sister. If she wants the even heat of hydronic or even forced air/water heat exchanged it would give those avantages of not having a point source of heat and they seen to have tried to get them more efficient than most of the OWBs. You could but one in a "doghouse" outside if you wanted too or in a garage like ktm did.

http://www.rohor.com/

I have attached a link to the Seton wood boiler page. At the bottom of the page there are links to several other high efficiency wood boilers, AHS is one of them. They all seem to use a more elaborate system for combustion than the basic weld a firebox in a big barrel and heat water. Some of them have dual source heating options so you can have a backup when you are away.

As for what I have is a Country Flame BBF catalytic wood stove. It works pretty good, holds coals for a long time if you got the right wood in it.

I have been eyeing the indoor wood boilers for a while and would love to have one but the $$ aren't there right now for that kind of investment.

Don
 
Owb

After reading all of this I had to add my 2 cents. I have a woodmaster 4400 that is heating a 1500 sq ft house and heating my water, it is 135 ft from my house, This week it has been 25 deg at night and 45-50 during the day. I loaded my furnace 3/4 full with hard maple, this was at 5:00 pm,I did not reload untill 9:00 pm the following day and the water temp was still at 174 degrees. I also dont have the mess in the house and house insurance dosn't go up with a owb.
 
miller1 said:
After reading all of this I had to add my 2 cents. I have a woodmaster 4400 that is heating a 1500 sq ft house and heating my water, it is 135 ft from my house, This week it has been 25 deg at night and 45-50 during the day. I loaded my furnace 3/4 full with hard maple, this was at 5:00 pm,I did not reload untill 9:00 pm the following day and the water temp was still at 174 degrees. I also dont have the mess in the house and house insurance dosn't go up with a owb.

Good what type of underground pipe did you use? that logstar stuff?
 
owb

I used pex line wrapped with insulation and a silver heat reflective type wrap over that, this is all encased in 5" black tubing which is burried 30" deep.
 
MS-310 said:
I like this statement on the BTU loss.. I know alot of people that do ther own pipe underground it it dosent work well at all.

When using outside heating sources of any kind it's necessary to transfer the heat energy through a set of supply and return lines underground with minimal heat loss. An unbelievable amount of heat energy can be lost to the ground with poor quality insulation or systems that do not protect from moisture. It's extremely important to use an underground system that is very well insulated and water tight, also the supply and return lines need to be seperated. I can't stress that enough. So much heat energy is being wasted in this country by the use of "cheap" or "homemade" insulation products. 1% of heat loss in 100' is equivalent to about 3000 Btu. Don't cut corners here. You only want to dig up your yard once.

I know I had 180deg water in my boiler and 178deg water once it got into my home. That is a loss of only 2 deg, so it HAD to be insulated just fine.
 
ktm rider said:
I know I had 180deg water in my boiler and 178deg water once it got into my home. That is a loss of only 2 deg, so it HAD to be insulated just fine.

Yes thats pretty good for home made stuff. Just seems kinda some thing is not right here, but you got it fixed.
Jack
 
MS-310 said:
Yes thats pretty good for home made stuff. Just seems kinda some thing is not right here, but you got it fixed.
Jack

Yeah, I got it fixed by selling the outdoor furnace and buying an indoor furnace and putting it in my garage.. :cheers: Works like a champ now....
 

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