olympyk 264f wont start no spark

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

westcoast1

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Oct 5, 2006
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
maine
purchased an olympyk 264f wont start.
im not getting a spark when i put a bolt in the spark plug boot
can anyone tell me what i need to replace so i can get this thing running?

thank you
 
westcoast1 said:
purchased an olympyk 264f wont start.
im not getting a spark when i put a bolt in the spark plug boot
can anyone tell me what i need to replace so i can get this thing running?

thank you
replace the bolt with sparkplug!
 
That's what I was thinking.

Does the "sugarbush" username come from syruping? Just loaded and stacked about 8 cords that I cut some of last year for making syrup.
 
hamradio said:
That's what I was thinking.

Does the "sugarbush" username come from syruping? Just loaded and stacked about 8 cords that I cut some of last year for making syrup.
No, it's name of the lake i have property on. Aren't you from minn., if so where?
 
sorry guess i wasnt clear enough

HAVE put a spark plug in to test for spark when i pull the cord i see no spark at all no sound nothing

when i put a bolt in to test for spark i get nothing
in other words there is no spark being produced when i try to start the chainsaw

when i do the exact same test to another chainsaw using a spark plug and a bolt (as they say to use when you are testing for spark) i get spark.

so im wondering if anyone has any ideas, is it the on off switch? is it the ignition module is there a way to test these parts ?


thank you
 
sugarbush said:
westcoast1 said:
sorry guess i wasnt clear enough

HAVE put a spark plug in to test for spark when i pull the cord i see no spark at all no sound nothing

when i put a bolt in to test for spark i get nothing
in other words there is no spark being produced when i try to start the chainsaw


You were clear, i just couldn't resist. make up a short jumper wire, put the plug in the plug wire and put the jumper on side of plug then to good ground, if no spark unhook on/off switch at coil and check spark. if still no spark hook unother jumper to the coil then to a good ground. also check your plug wire close.
 
So. Hopefully you tried this spark test with a functioning plug. Gah, continuity test on the wire before the next bad advice lol (edit). If no spark then coil test, if its a magnito run thingy then clean the surfaces with 120grit or finer, make sure the gap has not been altered on re-assembly (plz do have a new plug there and hopefully tried it too), I believe the best advice I've gotten here on that is 'match cover thin'., this is the gap on your assembly between the magnets and pick-ups on the drum, gah i'm getin retarded here (Sheesh, who'dda ever thunk?). There is something to be said about cheap testing units, I forgot what it was but there's somthin' there.
Not a spark at all means you will have to do some electrical hunting mmmm first thing in mind with that would be your condensor (I think this is what some call the coil), as far as I know the spark in most saws is created by passing magnets over the pick-ups, if it has failed there, um, replace or clean the parts. Newer (ish) saws have me baffled so I'm sure to catch some grief here, t'sok, my brain is still workin' old tech, so I'll take me lumps. Seems my geek computer group is considering me redundant too lolol. (jk jk)

:D

Just checked my own post, yup, I am reetarded, must adjust to 120 degs TDC. Heya, check the ign. wire firtst before anything, just my ho.

:cheers:
 
Last edited:
Condensor is NOT the coil. Here's the basic components of a points and condensor ignition system-
Breaker points
Condensor (capacitor)
Ignition coil
Spark plug

Condensors generally don't go bad; to test, charge it up with a car battery or battery charger, and ground it out (never did this; just read about it).

Had to mess with 2 points and condensor systems lately, one on the old Homelite Super Wiz 66, and the other on my Vespa Ciao moped (got it with 700 miles on it for $60). The super wiz was just gapping the points, the moped was a big mess. The wiring is so that if the tailight burns out, it wont spark. Gapped points, did everything imagineable. Tailight works great, but I have to have both brakelight switches making contact to make it run. I sure am glad that chainsaws aren't that way.
 
hi thank you for the advice i used the spark plug from the chainsaw that i got a spark from
so will do a test on the wire from the on off switch?
i did hook up a wire from the on off toggle to the top of the ignition module in case the wire between the two was bad and didnt get anything .

it doesnt seem that you can adjust the height between the ignition module and the flywheel?? or whatever it is that the module rests above as it goes onto the body of the saw with two screws no adjustments possible

i did clean the metal thing that goes around under the ignition module as it seemed rather greasy seemed that when you pulled the rope to start it the ignition module left marks on metal thing under it. sorry dont know proper term for that.
does that seem like a problem?
 
the other problem i was having with the saw and originally posted about was the fact that you couldnt pull the cord more than one rotation unless you took the spark plug out of the hole than you could pull the cord all the way just fine
does this help to point to a specific area ??
 
westcoast1 said:
hi thank you for the advice i used the spark plug from the chainsaw that i got a spark from
so will do a test on the wire from the on off switch?
i did hook up a wire from the on off toggle to the top of the ignition module in case the wire between the two was bad and didnt get anything .

it doesnt seem that you can adjust the height between the ignition module and the flywheel?? or whatever it is that the module rests above as it goes onto the body of the saw with two screws no adjustments possible

i did clean the metal thing that goes around under the ignition module as it seemed rather greasy seemed that when you pulled the rope to start it the ignition module left marks on metal thing under it. sorry dont know proper term for that.
does that seem like a problem?
Are you saying the module is touching the flywheel when it come's around? If it pull's over hard after a pull or more you are probably getting to much fuel on top of the piston, ( hydraulic lock) dry it out.
 
hi doesnt appear to be actually dragging on it no, but there greasy marks left by the 2 metal sort feet that are on the bottom of the ignition module when i pull turn it by hand
i didnt notice that on my other saw
 
westcoast1 said:
hi doesnt appear to be actually dragging on it no, but there greasy marks left by the 2 metal sort feet that are on the bottom of the ignition module when i pull turn it by hand
i didnt notice that on my other saw
loosen the module bolt's and slide a business card between that and flywheel magnet's. tight'n and check for spark.
 
Howdy westcoast1,

I'm no expert nor am I familar with your make and modle of saw but I have some thoughts.

I would take the coil off and clean it, wire brush, fine sandpaper, steel wool whatever it takes to get it clean. I would also clean off the flywheel (big round thing with fins, under the pull starter cover). Actually I would clean the entire saw so I could see what I'm dealing with and make your visual inspection a bit easier but thats just me. (Others have said to be carful with what you clean with so you don't melt or discolor your plastic parts or damage your seals)

Grease marks on the flywheel? Where is all the grease comming from?


Now when you said " I did hook up a wire from the on off toggle to the top of the ignition module in case the wire between the two was bad and didnt get anything ." I'am wondering if this is actually grounding out your coil so it won't spark.

Did you try what Sugarbush said " if no spark unhook on/off switch at coil and check spark." ? Others have told me and said here that the on/off or run/stop toggle works in a way that when the switch is in the run or on posistion the circuit is open and when it is in the off or stop posistion it is grounding out the coil. On the few saws that I have worked on, this is how they worked. Discconect that on/off or run/stop switch. (Keep in mind that your fuel is famableif, if you get a spark you dont want to set yourself/gear/facilities on fire)

Also I noticed on the saws I worked on that when I pulled the starter rope slow it produced no spark yet when I pulled it quick it did produce a spark.

Seeing that yours is hard to pull maybe it is hydraulic lock, if it goes away when you pull the plug. I would suggest pulling the muffler and checking for obstructions plus you can see the condition of your piston, cylinder and rings. At least get a general visual assesment of them. Not seeing the saw myself I would aslo take off the bar and chain and make sure the clutch spins freely.

Just some things I would think about doing if I was in your posistion. Hope it helps it some way.

v/r
Mike
 
hi so far i found that the flywheel is lightly scored by the ignition module
today i took off the on off switch wire and tried for spark nothing.
i also took off the ignition module put a credit card under and then reassembled now a gap between the fly wheel and the ignition module

took off the muffler awhile ago but that didnt help

im assuming the piston is the thing that goes up and down that is hollow in the middle that you can see into when you take off the muffler?? the spark plug screw into the top of it?
when you pull the starter cord you can only make the piston? move once.
without the spark plug it moves freely up and down when you are pulling on the cord.

started to take it apart today but am also trying to get my jeep running after more then 2 weeks of being stuck here so didnt have time to really get into it.

also found awhile ago that the plastic fuel line was wedged up between the carb and something else and had melted inside the line, got a thin wire thru the obstruction and am now getting gas in the piston? the thing where the spark plug screws in.
so does any of this ring any bells for anyone?? appreciate all the help so far
 
Howdy again westcoast1,

Here is a link that tells some information on your saw that might come in handy.
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...42edddc90ce9606b88256bbe00558420?OpenDocument

The site above says the FLYWHEEL/COIL AIR GAP: 0.014 in. (0.35 mm). The credit card may be to thick, not sure, try a bussiness card instead or feelers gauge if you have one.

You say the flywheel is lightly scored by the ignition module and also took off the ignition module put a credit card under and then reassembled now a gap between the fly wheel and the ignition module On my saw the coil is beside the flywheel rather than underneath it. Yours must be a somewhat different arrangment. Can you look or feel under the flywheel to see if maybe the magnets have come out?

I would clean and inspect everything, look for broke/damaged wires(check the entire length feel for breaks if you cant see), good electical connections (no corrosion) I would leave the on/off switch disconnected, put a plug in her and gound it out and make sure I pulled it quickly when checking for spark. Get a helper if you have to.

If that don't qork maybe the coil is bad? or something is not connected properly somewhere. Any chance of posting a picture?

On the site/link above they have a picture of that saw, nice looking saw, if you get her running it should serve you well. Have you used a chainsaw much?

Yes it is the piston that you see moving up and down in the hollow thing. The hollow thing is the cylinder/jug. I wonder if you might have to long a spark plug in there and the tip of the plug is hitting the top of the pistion? Just something to check.

I would try to get the spark first then move on to the rest. Keep in mind you don't want to leave your saw all opened up. Cover it with some shop towels or something to keep stuff out.

Good luck with the saw and the jeep.

v/r
Mike
 
hi any idea how i post pictures?

i think that would be a great way to figure out the problem.

the main problem i have is pulling on the cord it literally lets the piston? go up and down once not even a full rotation of the flywheel then it stops with the spark plug in.
i tried putting a spark plug from my smaller homelite, smaller plug and also another plug i purchased both smaller then the plug in the saw when i purchased it, its impossible to pull the cord with the plug in more then the one time around.

i could i suppose use the homelite i found, i did try but i think the chain is dull it didnt do much and when i really pressed down the chain stopped going around.
it came with a file on a holder but have no clue what angle to use it at to sharpen the chain. there are no markings on the file holder.

no i have never used a chain saw and would rather not
but winters in maine dictate that i must.
im scared of them actually im sure once i start using one ill be fine.
or once i get cold enough

i thought maybe it was a high compression saw and there was something i was missing in trying to start it, but i guess not.
i have done some research and they are supposed to be good saws so would like to get this one running.
if you can tell me how to attach pics on this site ill do that.

the ignition module can be difficult to put in because there some to be magnets somewhere when you get it near the flywheel so maybe the magnet thing isnt an issue?
on my saw if you look at sitting on the ground take the cover off the flywheel the ignition module sits on top of it but again with a pic or pics you can see everything so let me know what to do thank you again
 
Howdy again westcoast1,

I don't know how to post pictures but will see if I can figure it out. Perhaps one of the other members could help us both on that one. We could use the search function and see if someone already explained it or there are some instruction on the main page I think.

Did you try the other things I mentioned and look for spark?

The only things I can think of that may cause this (not sure though) would be:

1. Something broken or cracked on the pull starter assembly (take it off and inspect it for breaks and cracks). Take your time and look close

2. An obstruction in the cylinder ports (should be good though if you can see the piston) at least the exhaust side.

3. I wondering if the saw may of been abused by a previous ower and they hit sometime hard with it while running at full throttle (I'm wondering if this could perhaps shear off the woodruff key and or bend the crank?) If you ever hit a stump with a lawn mower you can shear off the woodruff key. It maybe why you have no spark.

4. Not sure on this but I have heard that if the crankcase is full of feul/oil it makes them hard to pull. (you could pull the plug out and get the piston to its highest setting and turn the saw upside down and see if anything drains out.

Thats about all I can think of at the moment, its tough when you don't have your hands on it.

If you have not run a chainsaw before, I will tell you it is the most dangerous tool on the farm. Be very careful and don't cut alone. Have someone with you. One wrong slip and you could bleed out before you can call for help. Wear gloves, boots, comonation helmet/faceshield/hearing protection. I also reccomend those safety chaps/pants although I myself don't have a pair yet.

Do you have the manuals that came with the saws? If so read up good on where to stand, how to hold the saw, what kickback is and how to minimize, how to fell, limb and buck. Do you have a neighbor of friend who can provide any training or advice? I'm worried about you westcoast1 especially if your doing this alone. Running saws is serious stuff and so is fellin timber. Can't be daydreaming got to be focused and head on a swivel.

The echo web site has some good safety manuals on it try this link and download one to you computer. http://www.echo-usa.com/technicalresults.asp?model=cs-510&english=1&B1=Submit

When you got this saw did the previous owner mention any problems it might have?

There is lots of help on this site but nothing is better than hands on instruction from a pro/expert, please seek one out. I'm still scared running mine sometime a respective kind of scared.

Now you mention you have a homelite that runs good. Look at some of the threads here about sharpening then. Do a search. You can use you file and just follow the same angles on the chain, might be best if you bought a new chain for a good reference. There is lots of talk about guides, jigs and grinders on here but in reality you don't have to have them they just make it easier and simpler. I only use them because they do a better job then I can do by freehanding. I know plently of people who only use a file and they been doing it their whole life.

by for now I look around and see if I can figure out how to post pictures.

v/r
Mike

ps if any more experienced members can offer any advice please do. I'm still pretty green myself and don't want to see this person get hurt.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top