On Chain Saw Sharpening and Sharpeners

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Theres so much knowlege on this site but even tho sharp chains are one of if not the most important things to consider the people that know maybe just don't know where to start .
chain off the roll can be made better with a file 99.9% of the time with just a round and a flat file. Wherether its worth the time or not is up for grabs but no way will any grinder get a chain working better than a file in the right hands.
 
Call me old school, cheap, or both but I hand file and get darn good results. Been cutting steady all year and still have the same chain on. Granted she's getting near done. I never let it sling dust, but touch it up regular or if I know I grounded it. I'll save the extra money for fuel and oil. :)
 
I have a Maxx Grinder. It is similar to the Oregon ones except it has more adjust-ability and a mechanical automatic clamping system that works pretty good. It tilts left and right so you can always sharpen the cutters in the correct direction.

They are made in Italy.

Don
 
you guys must value chains like a $80,000 caddy....they're just chains, they wear out!

you can buy the best most expensive teeth sharpening tool, and have it just as super ultra slice a hair in 1/2 blah blah blah

many shapenings later, they still stretch and then ride the sprocket wrong!!! so now you have a high dollar taken care of chain you can't use!! reason i've never bought a $100+ sharpener......dremel or pencil file IMO, cheap maintenance for something that will wear out...
 
What about this one from harbor freights:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93213

It will be on special for $25.

Precision angle adjustment to keep your chain in top condition. Height and scale positioning.

* Chain vise adjusts to all chain designs and pitches
* Includes 4-1/4'' x 1/8'' grinding wheel
* Mounts to bench, wall, or vise
* Large side safety guard
* 4200 RPM grinding speed
* 4-1/4" wheel with 7/8'' arbor
* 115 volt, 0.75 amp, direct drive ball bearing motor


Vise capacity: 0.5"-0.8"; Table vise angle: 0-35° right or left; Power cord: 7 ft. 11"; Wheel dimensions: 4-1/4" diameter x 1/8" H; Overall dimensions: 10" L x 9" W x 12-1/8" H
Tool Weight: 4.85 lbs.

Thanks for your input.

If you lived closer,I'd give you mine.Flimsy plastic junk.

I've been pretty happy hand filing my chains.
 
ive used a angle grinder to trim my toe nails, but never reached for one when dealing with something as delicate as rakers!

lol +1 on that I think the rakers are just as important as the cutters,I will grind the cutters and hand file the rakers
 
I use the Oregon sharpener that clamps on the bar and hand file,seems to be good just slow.

I tried one of those a couple times before using the model I described previously in the thread. Goes about 5x faster. They're like 20-30 bucks and it's night and day compared to the bar clamp style.
 
Then one day it occurred to me that the difference came because I was sharpening a cut that had been made with a flat disk but suing a round file to do it.

Years and years ago, when I was logging, an old Canadian logger showed me how to file. I use a new (good) round file. I use my right hand to file one side, and my left hand to file the other. Same angle on both sides. Practice, practice. Muscle memory. Once you know what a sharp chain should look like you can get a chain to cut better then out of the box.
I don't mean that the week end logger will file enough to get the results he did, but it is possible to do.
Dan.
 
Call me old school, cheap, or both but I hand file and get darn good results.

I went to the same school as MNGuns and I've also been hand filing my chains for years. I've tried the fancy bar jigs and the Dremel grinder with crappy results.
Give me some good files and I'm happy. The chains always seem to cut and pile up the wood chips!
(My saw doesn't make dust so I don't get any "saw dust". )
 
I hand file my chains most of the time. I use the grinder to even up rocked out chains and set the rakers even. I usually end up grinding other peoples' chains more than my own.

Don
 
Hand Filing

I hand file my chains and if I am cutting in the woods I carry an extra chain and my sharpening tools in the truck with me. I don't have a stump vice but I can give you a helpful hint.

Carry a pair of 3" Cee Clamps with your sharpening tools. Use a clamp towards the end of the bar on each side and the saw will not rock while filing the teeth. The tailgate is just about the right height for me as a bench while doing this.

Nosmo
 
I hand file my chains and if I am cutting in the woods I carry an extra chain and my sharpening tools in the truck with me. I don't have a stump vice but I can give you a helpful hint.

Carry a pair of 3" Cee Clamps with your sharpening tools. Use a clamp towards the end of the bar on each side and the saw will not rock while filing the teeth. The tailgate is just about the right height for me as a bench while doing this.

Nosmo

That reminds me...without doing a search, who made that fancy bench vise for saw sharpening??...maybe Mr. Laird?
 
Nope, I use nothing but my 511A.

Someone had built a really nice workbench mounted vise that was far superior than a standard bench vise...thought it was you, I know you are of superior intellect!.....

:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
 
for years i filed the chains & got pretty good at it, but it takes so long
bought a dremel knock off tool, $20, and a 3 pack of round stones at TSC
( they make different sizes according to your chain ) they fit perfectly in the cutter & put a nice edge on the chain takes 5 minutes just do it free hand
with a little practice you can keep the angle perfect
usually do it before i go to the bush & it's good for the day ( if i keep the saw out of the dirt )
bob
 

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