One reason not to use motor oil as bar lube

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LOL, then you are probably watching the mint one on there right now. Its quickly moving out of my price range. I was going to buy it and be set for a while on 262's but this one will keep me happy for a while.


My initial thoughts on the saw are that I love it but I havent been able to cut big wood with it because the bar cuts every log in a half moon:bang:
For only 62cc's it has a TON of jam, about equal to my 670 Jonsered which is no slouch. ...

61.5cc, and it should be just shy of a 670 Super/Champ for power - but much lighter.....:)

The oiler should be ajustable!

The only real downside of those saws are the outboard clutch, but that means that they aren't perfect......:jawdrop: :jawdrop: :jawdrop:
 
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The set of Dewalt cordless tools I have is great, but for the money the Ryobis are great if you don't use them every day. I have the Sears impact gun, that is one handy little tool.


Back to the oil.....

I like Dewalt tools and Milwaukee brands and for air tools I buy ingersol rand.
 
Emergency Cold Weather Bar Lube

I doubt the used motor oil caused the problem. It likely already had a bad case gasket and the motor oil just finds it's way to the crankcase more easily. It's just way too thin for chainsaw application.
Agreed. The only time I ever used it was in an emergency and when it's too cold for ordinary bar and chain oil to work. Since then, I have learned that if I thin the bar & chain oil with a little mixed gas (about an ounce per fill), the pump oiler will free up and handle the lube all the way down to 0 F. I don't do this very often, believe me, but it works in a pinch.
 
1) Used engine oil is classified as toxic waste...

2) It destroys oil pumps - metalic and carbon particles... it is DRAIN oil... from the bottom of the sump...

3) It really pisses me off to work on a saw that is coveed in the cr?p. But... it's time and materials, so I spend a lot of time cleaning it all off.... and could give a damn if they never come back:chainsaw: :chainsaw: :chainsaw:

Hi Lake surely theres no way that those particles can be sitting at the bottom of the sump when the engine is running.Theres a crankshaft doing maybe 6000rpm agitating all the oil in the sump so it must be going through the engine and being splashed up the cylinder walls.
I wouldnt put it through my saw but i cant see how it could wear out a saw oil pump when it cant be doing much damage to the internals of a 4 stroke engine! If it was that bad engines wouldnt last hundreds of thousands of miles IMO
 
So I guess that pair of Husky 50cc saws are nothing but doorstops for you?

Something like that, they dont get any attention for sure now.
I suppose I could port one to make it more entertaining to use but in reality I just like using my 7900 more.

I bring it to work even though I dont need to so I dont have to use a 390 or 395 for cutting firewood.

Maybe some 3/8 chain and some mods on one of those huskies will make it worthwhile to tag along
 
61.5cc, and it should be just shy of a 670 Super/Champ for power - but much lighter.....:)

The oiler should be ajustable!

You are right it is adjustable. I didnt see it the first time because it is a strange design on the bottom side of the clutch, a lot different than the one on my 670.
 
That's a walk in the park for a dishwasher!:clap: But I'm going to have to call you on the $700 MS361. Aren't they under $600? I bought mine in LN condition for $400, on eBay from cbailey.

The 361 is around 650.00 proably around 690.00 with all the welfare fund included, in northern Indiana. I've always wondered why different regions have such a varience on price. You got a good buy. I hate buying used from people I don't know, I got stuck with a 60 horse tractor once off E-bay with a blown head gasket. It was cheaper to fix it than to drive it back to Wisconsin. I swore I'd never buy gas powered anyhting off Ebay again. Now i'm looking for a 044-046 there now, who knows:confused:
 
Hi Lake surely theres no way that those particles can be sitting at the bottom of the sump when the engine is running.Theres a crankshaft doing maybe 6000rpm agitating all the oil in the sump so it must be going through the engine and being splashed up the cylinder walls.

This is getting a little technical but the crankshaft does not touch the oil in the sump, all the oil is moved by the oil pump. When the crankshaft contacts the oil in the sump you get a big pile of foam and the engine burns up because the oil pump cannot pump foam. This is why engines use windage trays in the oil pan, to prevent the crank from creating foam and from losing horsepower due to drag from the oil. Not that any of this has anything to do with my saw
 
This is getting a little technical but the crankshaft does not touch the oil in the sump, all the oil is moved by the oil pump. When the crankshaft contacts the oil in the sump you get a big pile of foam and the engine burns up because the oil pump cannot pump foam. This is why engines use windage trays in the oil pan, to prevent the crank from creating foam and from losing horsepower due to drag from the oil. Not that any of this has anything to do with my saw

Sorry dude your wrong the crank does run in the oil some older engines didnt have presurised jets aimed at the borrom of the pistons but totaly relied on splash lubrication from the crankshaft
When the oil is hot its as runny as water it dosnt take much to stir up the mud in the bottom of a puddle
And the crank and lubrication system are stirring it up in a big way plus its getting aggitated by braking turning and accelerating
there were F1 crankshafts that were made aerodynamic to gain power in the 70s as they had to cut through if not the oil itself the heavy oil mist from the dry sump
 
http://www.tribology-abc.com/abc/engine.htm

Lubrication system
The engine lubrication system is designed to deliver clean oil at the correct temperature and pressure to every part of the engine. The oil is sucked out the sump into the pump, being the heart of the system, than forced through an oil filter and pressure feeded to the main bearings and to the oil pressure gauge. From the main bearings, the oil passes through feed-holes into drilled passages in the crankshaft and on to the big-end bearings of the connecting rod. The cylinder walls and piston-pin bearings are lubricated by oil fling dispersed by the rotating crankshaft. The excess being scraped off by the lower ring in the piston. A bleed or tributary from the main supply passage feeds each camshaft bearing. Another bleed supplies the timing chain or gears on the camshaft drive. The excess oil then drains back to the sump, where the heat is dispersed to the surrounding air
 
I can guarantee that the crankshaft in my smallblock Chevy's do not rotate into the oil. I have a windage tray on them to prevent oil getting to the crankshaft. It also scavenges oil off of the crankshaft allowing the crankshaft to spin easier at high RPM...

Maybe on some older tractor engines or something...

Some diesel engines have the oil squirters for the bottoms of the pistons. That is to keep them cooler and to lubricate the wrist pin.

I'm sure there are some engines designed for the crankshaft to run partially in the sump... but I have yet to work on one.

Maybe Briggs & Strattons or something like that... lawnmower engines and the like.

Gary
 
I would think another good reason not to use used motor oil is because it is somewhat corrosive/acidic from all the byproducts caused by combustion and such. That oil's not good to be sitting there in your case. It dose bad things to rod and main bearings too if it just sits there.

Used motor oil..... I take it.


"that oil is not good to be sitting threr in your case" = to be sitting there in your chainsaw case. You leave it in there and it will corrode/cause pitting. It would be bad enough using it all the time but if someone puts it on a shelf for a long time....it aint doing any good. Yeah, it will ruin you pump and all that crap too.

"it dose bad things to rod and main bearings too if it just sits there" = Yeah your crank spins and it rides on a thin film of oil...whatever. What I'm talking about is when the eng is off sitting for a prolonged amount of time there is some small amount of oil that will pool in the saddles. That dose a number on bearings. It's bad enough extremely old oil being run in cars ( people who never change their oil) and such but it is even worse to not run it and just let it sit idle and eat away at things.

All this being said....I know people who argue and say they never change their oil. They also have many other problems. :givebeer:
 
Hi Gary the point i was trying to make is that the oil in the engine is getting disturbed enough that there is no pool of stationary crap sitting undisturbed in the very bottom of the sump waiting for you to take out the drain plug
everthing in there must be going into the filter if its small enough to through the strainer
and engines must run hundreds of thousands of miles with those microscopic bits in the oil circulating around doing no harm
so therfore cant hurt a saw oil pump!
 
Sorry dude your wrong the crank does run in the oil some older engines didnt have presurised jets aimed at the borrom of the pistons but totaly relied on splash lubrication from the crankshaft
When the oil is hot its as runny as water it dosnt take much to stir up the mud in the bottom of a puddle
And the crank and lubrication system are stirring it up in a big way plus its getting aggitated by braking turning and accelerating
there were F1 crankshafts that were made aerodynamic to gain power in the 70s as they had to cut through if not the oil itself the heavy oil mist from the dry sump

We are not talking about Stovebolt sixes from the 40's and Model A's here. I am referring to engines made in the last quarter century. How many people are putting used motor oil from F1 engines in chainsaws? I do agree with you though Scot in your main point that car motor oil probably will not kill a chainsaw oil pump.
 
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We are not talking about Stovebolt sixes from the 40's and Model A's here. I am referring to engines made in the last quarter century. How many people are putting used motor oil from F1 engines in chainsaws? I do agree with you though Scot in your main point that car motor oil probably will not kill a chainsaw oil pump.

Another wee point all that heavy stuff thats been sitting in the bottom of the sump waiting to come out when you take out the drain plug.
Aint it going to settle in the can you put it in just the same as in the sump? So would only come out of the can if you tipped it completly upside down?
 
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