There is no denying the 170/180 is fragile! Whatever method is used be gentle!
+1
There is no denying the 170/180 is fragile! Whatever method is used be gentle!
Andyshine, do you use the 32:1 also for milling? I have the Stihl 076 and used the 25:1 because it was suggested on the milling forum.
Well, I finally have the saw back together. Brand new motor since it cost about the same as replacing all the other parts. The compression is now 140 that is actually higher, it was 130 when it was new, hope that isn't bad news.
However, when the bar and chain is on it still won't idle. Runs fine on full power.
Any suggestions? There weren't any leaks that I could find except from the gas tank out of the little "valve?" on top when the saw is upside down.
Andyshine, do you use the 32:1 also for milling? I have the Stihl 076 and used the 25:1 because it was suggested on the milling forum.
Great thread.
I just picked up a 017 single ring no scoring.
Compression is a tad over 120,, should I ring it or leave it???
TIA
Bob
I used rope, and plenty of it, and that's what caused the bent rod. Thall proved that you can't bend the rod if using the proper stop, which leaves the piston much closer to TDC. Remember the video he did? He even replicated bending the rod when not using the proper stop, IIRC. In the case of a 170-180-210-230, I will never use rope again.
I used the piston stop baileys sells and it went right through the top of a piston on 2 projects of mine...You may be on to something with the rope(too much rope) But I wont use anything else but rope now....I just don't stuff it as full as i can get it with rope. I just bend the starter rope(5.5) in half and insert it like that and use the minimum amount. If the saw will turn over with a slight hitch with the rope then i know just a little bit more rope should do it. From my experiences piston stops go in at an angle and its just the edge of it that hits the piston and that's too much pressure on the piston in one given spot...to me its retarded tool. Not saying your wrong...in fact we think alike just in a different method. I use clean/new 5.5 starter rope. Just my opinion no offense.
Was that the plastic screw in stop? Those are only designed to be used on a few older models. The correct one goes in against the cylinder wall.
Nope just a metal plug....got it like 4-5 yrs ago. What you are describing I've never seen before...could you post a pic of it....i may have to high tail it back to baileys and order one. I'm picky, I cant stand not having the right tool for the job.
I'm interested in what you and snelling are saying...but baileys doesn't show what you are talking about..just the metal piston stop. Is it the "L" shaped thing that you get with the plastic ring compressor? If so, im going tear out my ACL trying to kick my own azz! Just so you all know..i'm not a professional..I'm just a CAD suffering chainsaw enthusiast that never understood what all the extras were in the ring compressor baileys sells.
Dear lord it is.....Im embarrassed:bang::blush:
Why, tant no biggie, alot of folks don't know about piston stops and which ones are used where. Another one of those learn something new everyday deals, be happy...
Why....I busted a piston out of my efco 152 and stihl 017 because i didnt know what I was doing then scratched my head wondering why there is a hole im my pistons? I see baileys NOW has a proper description of the ring compressor kit on their website. My knee hurts. BTW thall I felt inclined to rep ya just because you didnt make fun of me...lol
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