Good points man, I have seen so many guys break the eyelets, pull ropes and starter pawls. Unecessarilly. I drop start them in that method staright drop in line with the eyelet, and engage the the pawls, and just get past the comp stroke, and give it a couple drops with brake on left hand on the center of the wrap, straight up and down with the eye, and if a long bar I cant hold off the ground then it is resting on something safe fro me, and the saw a block piece of wood, or log. Good points
Some guys make it like it is rocket science, and its not starting a saw should be was going to say second nature, but even easier than that. If not it is too much saw for that guy, and he should not run it. I have tried used, and still use all methods if needed the key is to be versatile, and a guy should by all rights be able to start a saw any which way if ever needed. But the straight drop works best for me, good points Mike The under leg or knee aint bad either.
That is how many old loggers did it, and showed me many years ago, and they did it safely while the bar and saw weight was laying on a log, so youwere not in danger in any way. And back in the day it was the only way, modern saws have throttle locks, compression release, chain brake, elastostart etc. Old saws did not all have these features, and many I grew up with you had to give it gas with your right hand to start it while pulling. Point being it is safe if you do it safely. I use this method for a flooded saw. A good saw operator should be able to start, and use the saw in all conditions, and safely no matter what it is a dangerous world, when sawing or doing tree work it is the name of the game. But how the game is played, and what you learn pay attention to, listen and look for will determine, how long you live and play. The guys who are always safety conscious wise, and implement this route as second nature will have a better chance. The guys who do nothing but worry about how unsafe things may be will actually create a hazard, they hesitate or panic I know worked with many. Not trying to rip on you, just giving a run down to all, and wnated to display my thoughts I feel I have been pretty well rounded, and shaped. It has come from 25 years of firewood cutting, limbing, tree work, working with loggers, but mostly listening to the old ones. Working on saws, falling jobs complete takedowns which are like taking a puzzle apart, a disection. I try and take it all in, and I size up every tree with the same methods of safety, and practice so I can do it in my sleep, that way n the real world when it gets bad on a tree hopefully I can react, and not have to stop and think, and you bet your ass I have had bad situations, and close calls. I was lucky to live through em and learn.
And I agree stay out of the dirt at all times! You ever see my pics when I pose with a saw, they are resting on my boot not the ground, and not running of course. Big J, I agree not for everyone, and the practice is used still by many here, mostly from logging roots. Its not how I do it, but I see good points, and bad and all arguments from all methods. I agree with ya if it is not comfortable, and does not feel right don't do it I wouldn't. The snap back will get you from any method of starting, and I have one saw my 660 that has got everyone including my self. I try and pull it just past the compression stroke, and then get momentum with the next couple pulls or drops. I am not a rope yanker or a guy who pulls to the end of the rope. I let the saw weight help with the momentum I feel all saws have a different quirk or feel, even same brands and models main thing get the feel of the particular saw, and you will know how you need to start it. All of the methods that have been discussed are usefull to the right person or application. Nathan that was a good point because I have seen many guys eat dirt doing that with a saw, and wondered what they were thinking. Much more than a 28 in bar and I have to rest it, because of my short ass! But the way I do it is safe and the bar is always away from me just like a loaded gun.
Mike has a good idea if you want to go that route. If you do not have the elasto start you can ad one. I don't know man think I would leave it. I know they have a bite mine has no decomp either, but like he said I think you have to replace the cylinder.
I do exactly the same things with my J'red920. It has a lot of compression, especially when cold, & has hurt my back, wrist & shoulder trying to use the foot through the handle method. This must be a problem with us old guys. I'm 74. I,m afraid that using the between the knees approach I might become a soprano!
