OWB Water Analysis

[odps]

My stoves manufacture is hooked up with a lab... when they sell you a stove they provide you with a test kit... I send a water sample to this lab once a year...

results came back...

pH: 10.610
Conductivity (Micromhos): 2181
nitrite level: 792

The report says everything is within the recommended ranges... So, I'm good for another year or until I add water...

Curious to know what other OWB owners are seeing for these numbers?

Is anyone testing for anything else?

 

[AIM]

I'm curious as to why it matters? Does water carry more BTU's if the ph is off. I'm gonna lay a bet that marketing hype is the only concern.

 

[time warp]

I think it is more of a corosive issue. I pump my water from a well full of minerals so all my faucets & shower fixtures have stains on them.
I do have a water softner that helps....

 

[AIM]

If some minerals in the water are gonna ruin the unit, then I would say it's a POS to start with.

 

[Circle B MN]

The ph and nitrate of your water, whether it be from well or tap, needs to be monitored and adjusted so as to provide the optimal water quality to prevent corrosion of your water jacket, pumps, fittings, etc. A little effort will go a long ways in maintaining your OWB.

 

[odps]

Yes, keeping a check on the water is a way to prevent scaling and corrosion...

Without it, the warranty on my furnace isn't valid... They leave it up to the owner to send in a sample once a year or anytime water is added...

Just curious what other OWB owners are getting for these numbers...
and if anyone checks for anything other than PH, nitrate level and conductivity ??

 

[Stihl310]

I've only checked my PH level since I started burning back in Oct... It's right around 8-8.5... which is where the local CB dealer told me to keep it... I did do a nitrate treatment on it when I initially filled it, however I've yet to check my nitrate levels... I need to stop tomorrow and pick up a test kit from the CB dealer, been meaning to do it for sometime now, just haven' gotten around to it.

By the way, I have a homemade unit, however go through CB for stuff like this...

never heard of checking conductivity though, what is this and what signifigance does it have on the unit?

 

[ericjeeper]

Back in the day wife amd I had a hot tub

When the ph would get out of whack. The water level would decrease. I used to work with a guy that serviced swimming pools on the side. He said that water with a high ph would seek out the most minuscule leak and seek its way out. He made a believer out of me from then on I tried to keep the ph in check. I seem to always have to ad muratic acid quite often for some reason.

 

[odps]

never heard of checking conductivity though, what is this and what signifigance does it have on the unit?

Its one of the tests they do when I send in my sample...

Not an expert, but from what I read... Conductivity is related to the amount of dissolved (ionizable) solids in the water. Apparently, if the level of dissolved (ionizable) solids in the water is too high, it can lead to scaling and corrosion...

 

[AIM]

Without it, the warranty on my furnace isn't valid... They leave it up to the owner to send in a sample once a year or anytime water is added...

Which to me translates into a good way to not warrant the unit.
Sorry guys but I think this whole water testing is nothing but BS.
95% of owners will forget to do it after a few years and BINGO "warranty is void". It's a great way for them to deny a claim.

Let me guess... They are happy to sell you the chemicals required to keep your ph at X and your this or that to X.

 

[odps]

Which to me translates into a good way to not warrant the unit.
Sorry guys but I think this whole water testing is nothing but BS.
95% of owners will forget to do it after a few years and BINGO "warranty is void". It's a great way for them to deny a claim.

Let me guess... They are happy to sell you the chemicals required to keep your ph at X and your this or that to X.

My stove is manufactured about 50 miles from my home. I know the folks. Yes they are happy to sell you chemical, (mine has been free so far) or you can purchase elsewhere. The testing has been free so far, as well.

It takes me five minutes to collect a sample in the bottle they provide, package it in a shipping tube that they provide, apply the pre printed address label they provide and drop it in the mail...

Do you heat with a OWB? just curious...

 

[AIM]

yes

 

[geobckmstr]

my dealer sells the chemicalls i need to add to my owb at 75.00 a gallon?? wish i new what it was,im sure its 5.00 in chemicalls at a pool store.

 

[November Wolf]

My CB 6048 recomends 8.0 - 9.5 ph and 15 -20 drops by Nitrite test. I have the test kit that came with my OWB and test it every 3 months. It has not changed much since last december. As much as these stoves cost I would follow the manufactures directions.

 

[jcappe]

I follow by the manuf. suggestions on mine. I've seen what my water does to my water heater, faucets and such. I'm going to try and protect my $6000 wood eater from it if possible. I don't take any type of water tests, just add the anti corrosive chem. to it each year at fill up.

 

[Scrapiron]

I'm with jcappe on this one

I add the Taylor chemicals once a year and a new rod.

I have an in ground swimming pool with a vinyl liner and I can tell ya.. if the PH levels are whacked (as well as the other levels) it can be a pain to correct. I've got the wrinkles in the liner to prove it.

However, with a stainless steel jacket, I'm not too sure what else I need to do. Maybe I should test the water in there. I know I add water about once a month for about 2 minutes (from our well). And then just this week I added a bunch of water when I had to replace one of the pumps. So I imagine the "balance" of chemicals to water is off.

Interesting thread....

 

[geobckmstr]

whay do you mean by rod???

 

[Roscoe294]

I'm curious as to why it matters? Does water carry more BTU's if the ph is off. I'm gonna lay a bet that marketing hype is the only concern.

PH that is too low will actually disolve metal

 

[Billy_Bob]

never heard of checking conductivity though, what is this and what signifigance does it have on the unit?

Perhaps for the same reason a water heater has "dielectric couplings" on its water pipes.

And this...
Galvanic Action...
http://metals.about.com/library/bldef-Galvanic-Action.htm

And this...
Electrolyte...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolyte

Also note the water heaters have Anode Rods. These use an "electrolytic process" to sort of electroplate the inside of the metal tank. This makes it last longer (no electricity required!)...
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html

And boats use zinc plates under water for the same reason...
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/23.htm

More...
Galvanic Corrosion...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

 

[odps]

my dealer sells the chemicalls i need to add to my owb at 75.00 a gallon?? wish i new what it was,im sure its 5.00 in chemicalls at a pool store.

Yeah maybe... but 1 gallon of chemical will usually treat 300 gal of water... My system uses just over 150 gallons, that last half of a gallon may well last me for several years...

Various companies produce treatment product... the chemical make up I do not know... Someone here on the forum may know??

Seems that Certified Labs is popular with some of the OWB manufactures... Several manufactures include a gallon of Certified Lab Wood Burning Furnace Water Treatment when you buy a stove. Thats the brand that came with my stove...

Seen some of that same product on eBay, with shipping it was gonna run about $75.00 like you were talking about...

If someone could give us the chemical, there might be a cheaper way... It really makes no difference to the OWB Manufactures, just so long as you are getting a good analysis and can document it with testing...

I think its unreasonalbe to expect twenty years of service from a piece of boiler plate that is subjected to high temps and corrosive water...