Pallets, Tarps, Sheds, Lean-Tos, and other ?dry? storage

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if you can't store say a weeks worth, or even a few days worth, of wood in a nice dry spot then you're cursing those damn snow covered piles every time
I can store several cord in the basement within a few feet of the furnace... If'n I wanted to "pack" it in good and tight I could store enough for the complete season down there. But, there's usually a few nice days for tossin' some more down the old coal shoot at mid-winter.
 
I can store several cord in the basement within a few feet of the furnace... If'n I wanted to "pack" it in good and tight I could store enough for the complete season down there. But, there's usually a few nice days for tossin' some more down the old coal shoot at mid-winter.

My point being this is a good case for a wood shed, as different circumstances make it a worthwhile endeavor to build. I know plenty of places have no basements and if you don't have a garage, or covered porch, you are building something.
 
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By the way, how much do those fence posts run you? Those are just too neat looking stacks compared to my cribbing, and it looks a lot stronger.
 
I stack in the open on pallets, 3 rows deep and find even the middle row is well seasoned after a year or two. I used to stack single rows and anything that was done is the spring was ready to burn that fall. I try to stay a year or more ahead these days as my wife's health isn't great and I'm never sure if I'll be able to get out and cut the next year or not.

Now starting to collect for winter of 2013-2014
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For winter of 2012-2013, split and stacked in spring of 2011
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For this winter, split and stacked in the open in the spring of 2010. Moved into the shed a couple of months ago so that I don't have to bring snow and ice into the house.
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From the woodshed I bring enough into the house for a few days at a time, about 5 feet away from the stove.
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hey...fence posts?...that's cheating! :msp_tongue:

j/k...nice stacks

next year's wood gets stacked between convenient trees behind the garage...cedar on the bottom (bark down)...still working on getting 2 yrs ahead

this year's wood gets put into the lean-to where the dark roof, open sides, and KS summer make for a decent kiln

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I prefer firewood "buildings" because it makes my life easier...after shoveling the walk and plowing the driveway I just mozie on in and grab what I need...been known to bring wood in dressed in slippers, boxers, and a jacket. after all that work processing my firewood, I'll be darned if I'm gonna fight the snow to get to my stacks
 
Fence post are basically FREE!
I have a bunch of 'em (used) leaning in one of the sheds, saved from pulling out fence lines.
Don't really need 'em to hold the stacks up...
But they keep me from pulling the stacks over when I hook the end of one with the mower.
I hate mowing, one of my least favorite chores, and I tend to get in a hurry just to get it done.
 
Fence post are basically FREE!
I have a bunch of 'em (used) leaning in one of the sheds, saved from pulling out fence lines.
Don't really need 'em to hold the stacks up...
But they keep me from pulling the stacks over when I hook the end of one with the mower.
I hate mowing, one of my least favorite chores, and I tend to get in a hurry just to get it done.

Yup, I like fencepost ends too.

Like spidey says, free if you find a fenceline needing torn out (but a LOT like work)!
$5 or less at the local farm store new.
Half that or less at an auction or out of the local classifieds used.

T-posts are the way to go, stamped steel "U" posts are flimsy and don't last, like buying a chinese saw.

A 6' post driven to the top of the foot plate will give enough height for a 4' stack on top of a pallet, but whatever length you get will be better than nothing.

One of my uncles lived basically on a bog, posts wouldn't hold much up in that ground. He stacked a foot or so of wood, ran a piece of fence wire between posts, and finished the stack. Worked like a charm.
 
Criss-Cross Stack The Ends

I also criss-cross stack the ends. That's cheaper than any fence post at the ends, and it makes no difference what the length of the pile is.

However, I'm not sure what the end-of-stack retainer has to do with the OP. Pass the popcorn. :confused:
 
Open stacks are fine, butt a wood shed (Wood Building! ) is mandatory for your dead serious wood heating in snow country.

Ours ( sorry, no pics ) was built with scraps from this house construction. It's a pole shed, with "flitch" boards, mill boards that are milled vertically with the contour of the outside of the tree, spaced 6" apart on 3 sides for circulation. Simple and cheap. In snow country, outside stacks get to be a PITA.
I like the "slippers and robe" thing. Besides, the woodshed gives you a place to snort your piles.:confused:

I also built a "storm shed" onto the house with ~ .5 cord for those days with heavy snow ( "Emma Storm" ); enough for many days snowed in, sick, or too lazy to head out to the woodshed. Open the door, pull the sticks, load the stoves.

P.S. I am not a Pook". :msp_w00t:
 
I stack on 2/4 frames on cinder blocks to keep the wood off the ground, 3 rows deep. Then I put pallets on top, just covers the 3 rows, then tarps on top of the pallets. This lets air circulate under the tarp and keeps the wood from wearing holes in the tarp.
 
Good on the cinder blocks!

Blocks work very well......they get the wood eight inches off of the ground and last forever.
The only trouble I see with blocks is the cost for large collections. My two woodpiles added together equal 1,000 sq ft. That's a lot of cinder blocks. On the other hand, cottonwood pallets are free and potential kindling when they fall apart.
 
In the past I've always done what whitespider has done. I just cut a year or two ahead and cover this years in the fall to keep the rain and snow off. This year, however, the woods I cut in had the mature (24"+) hardwoods harvested. There were over 1100 of them on 250 acres or so (almost half of that is a big field). So now there are litterally tons and tons of tops to clean up, mostly white oak. So, I'm going to be cutting as much as I can because when it's gone (rotten) I'm going to have to find a new woods to cut in. Hopefully I'll be alble to get 4 or 5 seasons ahead over the next year and a half. If so, then next fall I will probably start covering all of it with cheap tarps to try to keep it from rotting as fast. I'm thinking about putting a weed barrier down undernieth to, but I doubt that I get that far.
 

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