Partner Chainsaw Thread

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Jeff Lary said:
I have one of my 5000's that I cannot seem to get the chain to stop moving and still idel high enough to keep running. If I adjust the low speed jet to the correct position so she reves quick when throttled up then it seems to be idleing too high. The chain is moving too fast to work safely in the woods with.
Sooo I turn the idle down so that the chain stops turning and the saw will not idle high enough to keep it running well,... it stalls out.
So I got to wondering if the issue may lie in the clutch ? What can cause this to happen? if I tear down the clutch into its peices and clean everything is that all you can do to the clutch?
Any advice? thanks Jeff
Click to expand...

Yeah, you got a busted clutch spring Jeff. Or very weak. Not enough tension to pull the shoes back.
 
DSS said:
Yeah, you got a busted clutch spring Jeff. Or very weak. Not enough tension to pull the shoes back.
Click to expand...

Seirously? I was wondering that Hey I kind of diagnosed my own problem,....Kinda.I have an extra clutch I think I will try that . I was hopeing you would be one of the responders. I will post a photo in a moment of my 30" spruce blown over the wires yeaterday in a few.Thanks
 
Its nice when they fall on the wires like that. Good job. Those old spruce attract ants for some reason, I've cut a few of them like that.
 
Hey I just tried the clutch change trick It works fine now.I got to try to get some new springs I guess must be some saw use the same spring size. Amazing how diffrent the saw acts now just like a new one.
I bought that from a fella that said "the oiler dont work aint never worked only cut a cord or so ruined 2 bars,... p.o.s. " So I gave him $65.00 came home and turned the adjustment screw a quarter turn this problem p.o.s. saw oils like a sperm whale now !!!
 
Good deal. Ed can tell you for sure, but a spring out of something like a 55 husky is probably the same.

These saws have no problem oiling if you turn the screw.
 
Couple more Partners for the herd

View attachment 272839View attachment 272840

A man I work with bought these 2 new one in 1980 and one in 1983 or 84. He had the manuals that went with each and even a new air filter for the S65. the plastic is very faded dont know what I can do about that? Anyway eat your hearts out ,...a little anyway Btw $ 50 for the pair
 
Arrowhead said:
Jeff, I have plenty of clutches/springs for these if you need one.
Click to expand...

Well ya maybe ? I honestly dont know what is bad though? is it the spring's or the shoes ?
Try if you can to explain how the clutch springs function?
The spring is between the shoe and the " hub ?" It looks to me like the faster the clutch spins the further the shoes expand untill they touch the rim ? But the springs seem to be pushing outward on the shoes from the start to me? So how does the saw idle without the shoes pushing out from the stsrt.
In my mind it seems like the shoes should be restrained until higher revs some how and not be , being pushed out from the start like they seem to be set up for.
 
Last edited:
Jeff Lary said:
Well ya maybe ? I honestly dont know what is bad though? is it the spring's or the shoes ?
Try if you can to explain how the clutch springs function?
The spring is between the shoe and the " hub ?" It looks to me like the faster the clutch spins the further the shoes expand untill they touch the rim ? But the springs seem to be pushing outward on the shoes from the start to me? So how does the saw idle without the shoes pushing out from the stsrt.
In my mind it seems like the shoes should be restrained until higher revs some how and not be , being pushed out from the start like they seem to be set up for.
Click to expand...

You got it, it just looks confusing. The springs hold the shoes away from the drum until you rev the saw up, and centrifical force overcomes the springs and allows the shoes to contact the drum. This is what turns your chain. That's why if the springs break, or get weak, the chain turns all the time. There's nothing there to hold the shoes away from the drum, and instead of a clutch you've almost got direct drive.

Did that help?:)
 
I think what's confusing you is that the springs look like they're pushing on the shoes, but they're really retracted at idle and are holding them in. When the RPM comes up, you're stretching the springs not compressing them.
 
Well there ya go that makes sence. I just done some cleaning on the S65 I just got and thought I would clean the carb.I dont have a kit for it so I just cleaned it up there was some fine saw dust sitting on top of the fuel pump diaphram so I cleaned everything I coud jets the diaphrams on the bottom? not the correct description but cant think of the dia/gasket combo name. put her all together.Cleaned and reset the coil gap / flywheel yada yada. Choked he a few pulls poped once then not again. Pulled the plug layed it on the cylinder and pulled her to be sure I still had spark and WOW flame shot out 3 feet every pull. She is flooding badly heavy mist from the plug hole every pull.Now I am wondering If I put the bottom dia/gasket set back in the correct way? which touches the carb body on the bottom end, the diaphram side or the gasket side ? She still needs a kit I am sure but piston and cylinder look great all orig tank vent switch wires ect. what do ya think is it flooding because of a backwards install or it needs a kit?

The 5000 started hard maybe 20 pulls but after it started it ran fine I will have to go through it closely sometime but it runs well.
 
Jeff Lary said:
Well there ya go that makes sence. I just done some cleaning on the S65 I just got and thought I would clean the carb.I dont have a kit for it so I just cleaned it up there was some fine saw dust sitting on top of the fuel pump diaphram so I cleaned everything I coud jets the diaphrams on the bottom? not the correct description but cant think of the dia/gasket combo name. put her all together.Cleaned and reset the coil gap / flywheel yada yada. Choked he a few pulls poped once then not again. Pulled the plug layed it on the cylinder and pulled her to be sure I still had spark and WOW flame shot out 3 feet every pull. She is flooding badly heavy mist from the plug hole every pull.Now I am wondering If I put the bottom dia/gasket set back in the correct way? which touches the carb body on the bottom end, the diaphram side or the gasket side ? She still needs a kit I am sure but piston and cylinder look great all orig tank vent switch wires ect. what do ya think is it flooding because of a backwards install or it needs a kit?

The 5000 started hard maybe 20 pulls but after it started it ran fine I will have to go through it closely sometime but it runs well.
Click to expand...

Jeff, on one side of the carb, you have a metering diaphram. It's on the side with the needle and seat. On this side the gasket goes on first, then the metering diaphram, then the metal cover. On the other side is the fuel pump. The thin pump diaphram goes first... touching the carb body, then the gasket, then the cover.
 

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