Partner k950

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Wonder if the 2002 at the bottom of the tag is coincidental?

Chop saws/concrete saws get absolute hell for a working life- I doubt it is really worth doing and where is the new top end coming form?
Bottom end looks clean I was going for a hyway top end from hl supply. I paid not very much for it so I have a lot of wiggle room. Fuel line was trashed it looks like a run lean failure
 

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They tend to eat a lot of debris- usually operator error and lack of maintenance- or dry cutting where it should be wet.
Users tend to over tension belts and run bearings, seals and even snap PTO sides of cranks.
Just double check your bottom end before you go spending a lot of money. ;)
 

cscltd

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It was made mid way through 2005. intake looks like cold seizure?
if bearings are good and your not going to use it much I would put aftermarket cylinder kit in. Oem is better, but expensive for that model I think
but I would use oem carb kit/fuel line and oem air filters for it.
 
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Here is the exhaust side. The crank is tight on the rod and mains. There is no grit in the bottom end. Intake was clean as well as the filters. So I ordered a hyway top end and gasket set with seals. It seems the rest is in good shape save for the arbor bearings are a bit noisy but will worry about that later. I talked a bit more to the fellow I got it from he said he was trying to start it with carb cleaner. Could that have killed the top end? When I first got it I primed it with mix and it fired. Comp was low for that engine at 120 psi
 
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Ah, lean and piston expanded against intake.
looks still worth it.
maybe cylinder will clean up?
It could I think but I want to try a hyway top end on something. And for the price i don’t feel like playing around. If it was a Stihl I think there cylinder are maybe more forgiving and the plating is thicker. I had a Husqvarna brush saw I spent a fair amount of time on cleanup and a new piston only to have the plating peal off at the exhaust port and toast it
 

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I have rebuilt two chop saws one being a Husky K970 and a TS420. I think the K950 is very similar to the K970. I have been unimpressed on the going price for these saws. I bought my K970 for $175 with a new 16 inch blade and put new rings in it, installed a reconstructed carb and it needed a new head bearing holder. The blade bearing had opened up it's bearing socket so it need replaced. Luckily I was able to get a new old stock blade support for $65 on ebay but anything from a dealer was extremely expensive. Check that blade bearing out carefully. I saw a really good K970 sell for $375 on Marketplace and it took over a month. My opinion it is worth it to fix it for yourself but you will not make too much if you are selling for a profit. They are a pain to clean up. Check out the cost for the cranks because some are extremely expensive and they don't have aftermarket ones. Also the Husky K970 carbs were over $140 and didn't have aftermarket replacements. My carb needed a new check valve on fuel inlet so I had to cut one from a donor $25 carb to use in the rebuild. No OEM ones available. Also it seems like Partner Saws certainly do not demand premium price vs Stilh and Husky.

I totally reconstructed a Stilh TS420 and used all aftermarket parts with a $50 saw cost and $250 in parts. Saw runs good but I have seen used saws in good shape selling for $450.
 
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I have rebuilt two chop saws one being a Husky K970 and a TS420. I think the K950 is very similar to the K970. I have been unimpressed on the going price for these saws. I bought my K970 for $175 with a new 16 inch blade and put new rings in it, installed a reconstructed carb and it needed a new head bearing holder. The blade bearing had opened up it's bearing socket so it need replaced. Luckily I was able to get a new old stock blade support for $65 on ebay but anything from a dealer was extremely expensive. Check that blade bearing out carefully. I saw a really good K970 sell for $375 on Marketplace and it took over a month. My opinion it is worth it to fix it for yourself but you will not make too much if you are selling for a profit. They are a pain to clean up. Check out the cost for the cranks because some are extremely expensive and they don't have aftermarket ones. Also the Husky K970 carbs were over $140 and didn't have aftermarket replacements. My carb needed a new check valve on fuel inlet so I had to cut one from a donor $25 carb to use in the rebuild. No OEM ones available. Also it seems like Partner Saws certainly do not demand premium price vs Stilh and Husky.

I totally reconstructed a Stilh TS420 and used all aftermarket parts with a $50 saw cost and $250 in parts. Saw runs good but I have seen used saws in good shape selling for $450.
The 950 carb is a tillitson hs with a compensator on it. I think the 970 uses a walbro. I plan on keeping it. But it’s nice to know if I decided to sell it what it’s worth. I think the crank is good. You would think it would be a similar crank to a chainsaw, I think it’s based off of the 394xp but I could be wrong
 

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The 950 carb is a tillitson hs with a compensator on it. I think the 970 uses a walbro. I plan on keeping it. But it’s nice to know if I decided to sell it what it’s worth. I think the crank is good. You would think it would be a similar crank to a chainsaw, I think it’s based off of the 394xp but I could be wrong
Or perhaps the other way around- the Partner design was first, it was used to make a chainsaw in the form of the Jonsered 2094 and then the 394 was designed later- as far as I understand it.

The first photo you supplied shows concrete like dust slurry sitting on the "shelf" of the crankcase halves- once dry it sticks like the proverbial to a blanket. Scoring to the intake side of the piston, can be from debris entering the intake tract- and/or lean condition.
Having used and destroyed these things in the past- I am very dubious of used ones- your one may well have a "good" bottom end- I never trust them.
 
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Or perhaps the other way around- the Partner design was first, it was used to make a chainsaw in the form of the Jonsered 2094 and then the 394 was designed later- as far as I understand it.

The first photo you supplied shows concrete like dust slurry sitting on the "shelf" of the crankcase halves- once dry it sticks like the proverbial to a blanket. Scoring to the intake side of the piston, can be from debris entering the intake tract- and/or lean condition.
Having used and destroyed these things in the past- I am very dubious of used ones- your one may well have a "good" bottom end- I never trust them.
Yeah I see what you mean. There is a thin film on there that wipes right off. Could it be carbon from blow by. I have seen this before on a ms 310 I put a new piston/rings in. Like I said intake and all that was clean so I think it will be ok. I have seen a saw once that was packed full of sawdust in the bottom end and it still ran ok lol
 

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Yeah I see what you mean. There is a thin film on there that wipes right off. Could it be carbon from blow by. I have seen this before on a ms 310 I put a new piston/rings in. Like I said intake and all that was clean so I think it will be ok. I have seen a saw once that was packed full of sawdust in the bottom end and it still ran ok lol

Sawdust and fuel mix aint concrete slurry/dry dust and fuel mix- you are talking abrasive paste like lapping compound!
I'm not saying it is shagged- just be extra vigilant.
 
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Got it running
There was a couple snags along the way. On the bottom side of the exhaust port there was some flashings that had to be removed and I’m doing so there was a small chip in the plating. I cleaned it up and chamfered it so it should be good.
The second was make sure the intake is on before bolting the cylinder down
And lastly the flywheel was hitting the cylinder. the relief was cast and not machined so I had to clean it up. I’ll post pics of the Oem relief
 

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