Is this cylinder junk ?

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Jza

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Title says it all

Worth me sanding it ? Otherwise I think I'll buy a meteor top end

Edir : A ring broke and caused this
 

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If you can feel it with your fingernail
Generally you'll lose a few psi
But it'll still run good
I'd smooth over anything that'll scratch a piston
And scotchbrite it to deglaze abd run it.
It's just that one big gouge , the rest seems fine
 
Id be more worried about the chunk taken out of the lip. That transfer wouldn't bother me unless I intended to sell it. As others said it might clean up.
I'll try clean it up then and see how it goes. I won't be selling that cylinder on a saw . If anything I'd swap it out for the one on mine
 
Don't suppose you measured squish before it came apart? I'd be inclined to loose the base gasket to drop the cylinder as far as possible... then take however much you dropped the cylinder off the top of that exhaust port to clean it up a bit. If that makes squish too tight you could take a fraction of the outside top of the piston to make a slight pop & get an appropriate squish back
 
Don't suppose you measured squish before it came apart? I'd be inclined to loose the base gasket to drop the cylinder as far as possible... then take however much you dropped the cylinder off the top of that exhaust port to clean it up a bit. If that makes squish too tight you could take a fraction of the outside top of the piston to make a slight pop & get an appropriate squish back
No I didn't sorry ! Thats a good idea , I will run with that and see how it goes!
 
Not sure you mentioned what saw it was but raising the exhaust port on any small saw any amount is a bad idea. Also don't remove anything off your piston to compensate for the squish band being to tight the best way to fix that it with machine work but you can also glue sandpaper to the top of the piston and sand the band by hand to raise the band up.

Anytime you move the exhaust port physically higher you gain RPM but lose torque and don't blindly raise or lower ports put a timing wheel on and get numbers so you know where you started and what moves to make.
 
Id replace it. The risk is that you'll either leave indents on the cylinder or make it cylindrical from hours of sanding. Then you won't get a proper (or long lasting) seal to the piston rings. been there done that. I've had success using meteor cylinder and piston together.

As above please find and rectify the cause of the overheating. A pressure and vac test is essential (ideally testing under water).
 
I have had good sucess with both meteor and hyway but change the rings to cabers on the hyway and since I have a lathe I can lower the squish to where I like them and knife out the lower transfers with a rotery tool and can make a 10 mm gasket- I leave exhaust and intake ports alone also add a extra scoop on the side of the muffler high enough so it does't hit the casing- they move out reall good- had one come back after cutting 100 chords- P&C were still perfect - he lost the bolt out of the chain brake and kept running it and the spacer made it's way down into the flywheel area and replaced all the messed up parts and gave it back to him and said go cut another 100 chords- china P&C kits I just junk them unless the owner insists ----my experiance only
 
I'm a proponent of replacing both piston and cylinder together. That way you have more chance they will fit together. A few people tell me aftermarket pistons are no good, what they mean is they tried to fit one with a over-sanded OEM cylinder, that is either cylindrical or has indents somewhere. Use a genuine Meteor piston and cylinder kit and move on with life. I've had great success with them
 
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