Peavy vs. Cant Hook #2

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esshup

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I know it's been discused before, but I couldn't find an answer when reading the old threads.

Specifically, if I need to roll 6' - 10' long logs that are 20" to 40" in diameter, which would work better? I just need to roll the logs so I'm not dipping the chain in the dirt when cutting. What I do is cut 80%-90% thru the log, every 16", then roll it and finish all the cuts. Then roll the pieces onto the trailer.

Tree service dumps logs that they don't want to mess with cutting up/splitting/handling for me out by the road to cut up for firewood. Unfortunately, I can't get any equipment there AND bring the wood home too. Rolling them by hand once cut to 16" lengths isn't a problem.

I have an all steel log lifter, but there isn't a point on it. I tried to use it, but it won't bite into the majority of the logs that I need to roll.
 
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I recommend a cant hook..... the one with the point on the bottom pointed in, toward the log. The peaveys, with the point going straight down, were designed to push logs around during log drives down the river.
 
Doesn't matter. While they are different, both will do the job. I have a peavey with the hook. Therefore I have both. I also have noticed that most peavey handles are longer if you want that extra leverage.

Shea
 
I'm bumping, only because this is my wife's Christmas gift to me, and I want to know which one you guys think is better, before Santa comes...
 
Thanks guys. I was leaning towards the cant hook for that reason, and that re-affirms it.

On another note, I was looking at my 24" 84 drive link chain, and it was getting a bit thin. (one of them) I stopped at one of the local sharpening places, (they sell chains) and they wanted $34.00 for a semi-chisel chain. Their chains are all cyro'd, but still, it's not worth almost 75% more than Bailey's!

Cant hook and chains will be ordered at same time.
 
Since you asked...

"It was in the Spring of 1857 that Joseph Peavey made the first tool to become known as the PEAVEY. With the first tool began the organization of the Peavey Manufacturing Company, which for over 150 consecutive years now has been making Peaveys and shipping them with other logging tools throughout the U.S. and many foreign countries.

The event took place in Stillwater, Maine in the heart of the booming logging industry. One day a log drive became hung up on the Stillwater Branch of the famous Penobscot River. Joseph Peavey, who invented the Peavey Hoist for pulling stumps and hoisting gates on dams, the first hay press, the first wooden screw vice, the first clapboard water wheel, unspillable inkwell, and many other things, lay flat on a bridge overhead watching the men with their improvised prys trying to free the jam. Seeing the unsteadiness of the prys and realizing they needed something different, the idea came to him that he could make a better tool.

So he jumped up, as the story goes, went back to his blacksmith shop and directed his son Daniel to make a clasp with lips, then make holes in the lips to put a bolt through on which to hang a dog (or hook) and toe rings below the clasp to the bottom of the handle. Finally, a pick was driven into the end of the handle. The tool was turned over to River Driver William Hale who pronounced it a great success.

Later, Joseph Peavey made the first PEAVEY using a solid socket, in place of toe rings, with a driven pick. The improved Patent PEAVEY - solid Socket and Pick combined, later to be called the Bangor or Rafting Peavey, was invented by James Henry Peavey, grandson of Joseph.

The present facility of the Peavey Manufacturing Co. is located just five miles down the river from where this historical event took place."

Above coppied from the Peavey Manufacturing website. :clap:

Peavey (with a point) used for prying and lifting (Also rolling logs). Comes in these standard sizes.
24" Standard Peavey
30" Standard Peavey
36" Standard Peavey
42" Standard Peavey
48" Standard Peavey
54" Stanard Peavey
60" Standard Peavey
66" Standard Peavey

Cant Hook (no point) used for rolling logs. Come in these sizes.
30" Cant Hook
36" Cant Hook
42" Cant Hook
48" Cant Hook
54" Cant Hook
60" Cant Hook
66" Cant Hook

We sell more 36" and 42". than the other sizes...anything longer and it gets on your way and or you try to move too large of a log.
 
Did you say 20" to 40" dia. logs? Not sure either one would work very well. Too big. Just MHO.

Don't have much around here at 40" but I have rolled a lot of hardwood logs up to 26" or so by myself using a cant hook (60" logrite). And two guys with cant hooks have no problem rolling 30"+ pine. I have a peavy but have never found the point to be much use.
 
I upgraded to Peavy Mfg's 66" cant hook earlier this fall, my only regret is not buying one sooner! The well designed & sharpened point does an excellent job of digging in on hardwoods of many kinds. The long handle is robust and made rolling some 30-36" rounds of cottonwood and red oak very manageable. The tree service logs I get are generally very large in diameter and I find this tool to be very important in my firewood tool arsenal. Would recommend this nicely crafted US made tool to anyone thinking of getting one.
 
I too get some pretty big logs, several up to 46".Last year I decided to built a peavy useing pipe in most of the construction.I think I ended up with about a 7' handle which turned out to be too long.Then I made a 5' handled cant hook.I made the hook out of the bar of an old bar clamp bent about 90 degrees in a long sweeping bend a little larger than store bought cant hooks.For the points on the hook and on the haft I cut the threads off a 6"x1/2" grade 8 bolt.Heated up the shoulder part and beat it into a point and welded them to the hook and to the haft.I find myself using this one more than the peavy.Both are made out of 1" sch.40 pipe.If I was going to buy one, I'd go with the cant hook over the peavy.
 
I just use my log lifter for rolling. My problem comes from if the log is irregular and wants to roll back..you can't let go of the handle, it won't stay. so you have to know where you will wind up and have a handy real heavy chunk to drop over the handle, then quick run around the side and wedge a chunk in. Then go back and reset and finish rolling.

The best cheat I have on doing similar with large logs I can't roll is cut stout pointy stakes (like four to six inches thick, and and long enough to really reach the bulk of the weight and thickness of the log) and drive them in under the log with the sledge, at every cut point. I do this at either every full round size, or far enough apart to cut the log in short enough sections to be able to roll it completely. The angled edge lets them slide under and not get hung up. Then I can cut all the way to the ground and not hit dirt or get bar pinch. I also stop for a sec and whack the wedge in hard at about half way down the cut, that helps, too, a lot.

Now, there's another way to do it if you want to, can't say I do this all the time, but I have done it. Put an anchor nearby at a handy tree. this is low, ground level. Run your chain or rope or cable from your anchor, over to the log, and try to wiggle it under somehow, use a rod or stake, etc. Usually it isn't that hard because it is a small diameter to get under, pile a long stick under, whatever, anything to snag a rope or chain under. Bring it around the top, now back to the same tree, and hook your comealong there, higher than your main anchor point, the higher the better, so it has some up pull as well as thataway pull. Go back, cut all your partial cuts, then use the comealong and yank it, it will pull the cable or rope around and roll the log..sometimes. Sometimes it has too much friction and wants to drag it. Sometimes it will roll, sometimes it drags. And it tears up ropes. I don't have a cable, perhaps that would slide easier and make it roll all the time. This is why mostly I use the "pound the stake/sharpened chunk under it " method, that always works.
 
get two of them, or one of each. I've lost a couple in the woods - never could find them again, darn it all! :msp_angry:

Sorry Unc, that's why I spraypaint nearly all my firewood tools yellow.That seems to stand out pretty good and before I leave an area I'll take a last look around and nearly always find something laying around I missed.
 
Definetly, you need at least one of each, to be well prepared.

I have the Peavy made ones,I prefer wood handled tools for firewood work.
 
I had it easy today. I got the trailer loaded with all the smaller stuff that was cut in about 4' lengths by picking up what I could, and rolling on what I couldn't lift. I got the saw out and was getting ready to oil and gas it when the tree service owner drove up in his bobcat. He loaded enough of the bigger logs to make a trailer load. :)

Now I have to cut some of them down to size just to get them off of the trailer. But, it saved about an hours worth of work.

I got home and changed into my hunting clothes. Deer season is open. I'll post a pic of the load tomorrow.

Here's what some of the logs look like. That's a 32" bar on the saw. Pics are from last year. Yeah, the trailer might be a bit overloaded..... I've got electric brakes on it, and where I get the wood is 5 miles from home. All back roads, I can go as slow as I want to get back home. Trailer is rated to carry a 2800# payload.
 
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