Philbert's Low Tech Filing Vise

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I should have pointed out that the vice for filing square ground is shorter because I want to clamp the chain completely stationary when I'm working on that, and I can get more clamping pressure over a shorter length.

I rarely clamp the other one that tight - usually tight enough to keep it from moving too much but lose enough that I can pull the chain around. One of the biggest helps is the angle lines I have scribed on it, for 25, 30 and 35 degrees. Actually I found that the holes are located too low for a really tight clamp, but they were already in the part I started with. I had intended to add some additional clamp screw holes higher up, but then I found I don't really need them.

It's also good to have a really flat surface for setting depth gauges, as a curved bar can cause errors.
 
As an update after using the vices for a while - I simply can't stand to file a chain any other way. I'll file on the bar if I must, but if I'm anywhere near the barn I'll usually come back to use the vice.
 

Just to make it easier for everyone, here's the pics of mine he's referring to. Just used it tonight actually. I never sharpen without it, now I just swap chains in the field.

5e3unyma.jpg


evajyhyn.jpg


ge5eseva-1882034241.jpg
 
Just to make it easier for everyone, here's the pics of mine he's referring to.

I had been 'designing' something similar in my mind for a long time, along with the bolts/nuts to keep it from sliding out of the vise jaws! I was thinking of adding some angle stock to hold the filing edge above the vise jaws for file clearance. See sketch (not to scale). Originally, I was thinking of adding some rubber to act as a spring, keeping the jaws open, but I don't think that is needed.

Philbert

Screen shot 2014-11-04 at 9.13.42 PM.png
 
I like the idea of having it higher over the vise, but not a lot. Just enough to keep your knuckles from hitting the vise. I think the higher you go, the heavier you have to build it to keep it steady. You can build the clamping portion to hit the screw housing on the vise instead of having an angle to sit on top of the vise jaws. Maybe even profile the bottom 'hinge' part to fit over the screw housing a little bit to help stability.

Mine is only held together by a bolt and nyloc nut on either side of the vise at the end of the jaws. It doesn't have any type of spring to open it. All I do is clamp the vise, sharpen my tooth, loosen the vise handle maybe a 1/4 turn then move the chain. The vise loosens enough to easily advance the chain.

Mine is a rough draft that turned out to work very well. I guess I got lucky. Well maybe not too lucky, I did take ideas from a few I've seen on here in the past.
 
As per usual COOL stuff Philbert! I was going to try some alloy/steel/alluminum angle iron and just put it in the vice and use vice as a clamping mechanism. But raiding bike seats at the local tip sounds fun too. lt's threads like this that make AS such a good place to be.
 
Philbert, it seems like the vise clamps I designed to hold the saw's bar and chain with it mounted in place could be modified with your idea here so that the power screw on the WW vise (or a machinist vise) could be used to supply all the clamping pressure on the drive links rather than the cams or a pair of wing nuts or bolts. If the wooden jaws rest on the vise's guide bars, there might be enough stability between adjustments as you move the chain along. The lower pivot at the bottom of the jaws would be very thin, about 1/16", or not much thicker than the chain gauge. Less than a 1/4 turn on the bench vise would probably tighten or release it.

Do you think that's worth an alpha? :rolleyes:
 
Philbert, it seems like the vise clamps I designed to hold the saw's bar and chain with it mounted in place could be modified . . . to supply all the clamping pressure on the drive links . . .

Your design for clamping an entire guide bar (with powerhead and chain) is a very similar idea, on a larger scale:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/my-chain-saw-vise-gripper.264658/

I think that there are lots of possibilities, depending somewhat on how people like to sharpen (on the saw, off the saw, etc.); if they have access to a vise while sharpening (in the shop or in the woods); what types of materials and skills they have; etc. Some guys have basic woodworking skills, some guys can do basic welding, some guys on this site can make a chainsaw from scratch! So I would love to see a version of your device.

Heimannm posted a mostly wood version many years ago, which got me started on some of these threads, but the images have been lost. I will ask him if he can replace them.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/my-new-saw-chain-vise.120500/#post-1935099

Philbert
 
Your design for clamping an entire guide bar (with powerhead and chain) is a very similar idea, on a larger scale:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/my-chain-saw-vise-gripper.264658/

I think that there are lots of possibilities, depending somewhat on how people like to sharpen (on the saw, off the saw, etc.); if they have access to a vise while sharpening (in the shop or in the woods); what types of materials and skills they have; etc. Some guys have basic woodworking skills, some guys can do basic welding, some guys on this site can make a chainsaw from scratch! So I would love to see a version of your device.

Heimannm posted a mostly wood version many years ago, which got me started on some of these threads, but the images have been lost. I will ask him if he can replace them.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/my-new-saw-chain-vise.120500/#post-1935099

Philbert
Thanks for the links. You might look at it this way: simplify. Perhaps the bench vise can grip and loosen the drive links, provided the device controlling the chain does not shift around. Note that in all instances shown on this thread, the bench vise grabs the device controlling the chain and does nothing else. My idea is nothing more than the concept of allowing the bench vise to do more. I will try an alpha, and thank you for the encouragement.

Psssttt... most experienced loggers have told me that they can file sharpen a long chain in the field faster than anyone can grind sharpen that same chain in the shop. Not only that, but the chain cuts faster after they file sharpen it.
 
Here is another, related thread. Hopefully, we can restore the photos.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/home-made-vise-jaws-for-chain-filing.208057/

Philbert
That's the trouble with Pics. Once the poster leaves the host site or the host site dies, the Pic links are gone. I've stuck with Photobucket for years, and by some miracle, they are still in business. I'll make the alpha, but give me a week or so. Right now, people need my split firewood, and I have to deliver some loads.
 
Homemade version on eBay (Not Mine!)

Not the nicest version I have seen, but from an enterprising manufacturer: $30 + s/h or best offer:

"saw chain sharpener vice, MPN 3200, Model SCS.9000
Brand: D&M Chain Co.
Model: Model T
Grips chain tighter than when on saw bar; for hand filing; 10 teeth at a time are clamped. Enhances professional level sharpening with file and file guide. Single handle unlocks vice, slide chain to left for 10 more teeth. Mounts in regular vice or clamp direct to table top. Pictures show actual chain vice in use in a home shop. If you order, you get a brand new chain vice. These are direct from production line to you, coated with silicone; no expensive finishing operations are performed. This keeps price low. "

eBay chain vise 1.jpg
eBay chain vise 2.jpg
eBay chain vise 3.jpg


Philbert
 

Latest posts

Back
Top