picked up a pair of CS-750EVLs...

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JUSS10

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
May 28, 2014
Messages
48
Reaction score
8
Location
Zeeland, MI
Are these saws worth holding on to? It was kind of an impulse buy (so are most saws I have bought, I guess I have the disease) got the pair for $60 and both run. Seemed like a fair deal for big saws. Was it a good call? It seems like parts are hard to find for these but I have read on the forum that they seem to be solid? One is missing the air cleaner and cover, seller says he has the air cleaner somewhere as well as a few extra chains. He also had a 302s that looked near mint for $30 but passed on that for now. I really didn't need the saws, have too many already but they are big and cool so I jumped at them. Good call or stupid impulse?

Justin



 
Sounds like a good deal to me. I have my father's 750EVL and still use it occasionally. Let me know if you decide to sell one or both.
 
I have a 702EVL that will arrive Monday. From the research I have done, these Echos were made in the 70's, very well built and very durable. They are not race horses but have a ton of torque. As most saws of that era, they are heavy. Parts may be hard to find.
 
Well, good to hear it wasn't a bad buy. They are heavy but i would likely use it as a bucking saw where the weight can do the work for me. I may even laser cut some bucking spikes for it for good measure.
 
Well, good to hear it wasn't a bad buy. They are heavy but i would likely use it as a bucking saw where the weight can do the work for me. I may even laser cut some bucking spikes for it for good measure.
@ $30 ea you got a good deal. Keep us informed after you get a chance to see what you really got. Have you tried to start them ?
 
I haven't yet, though the seller was more than eager to fire them up for me, but we met at a store parking lot and I didn't want to scare the local shoppers going to their cars. He was a great guy and literally told me he inherited them and wasn't trying to make a killing, just didn't need them.

yeah the fun starts when you dive in and find all the issues you didn't see at first. he did find the air cleaner and cover for the saw thats missing it. I know one has a bad kill switch so I need to look in to that. I also see both clutch/bar covers are cracked at the bottom. seems to be a common issue on these older metal saws. May try and take then to work and machine them to look a little better, like a chunk is supposed to be missing. bars and chains don't look like they had excessive wear and he did say he dropped a tree with one not long ago, just couldn't handle the weight.
 
Also, what is an affordable bar/chain combo that isn't crazy expensive. I haven't gotten a good look at these yet, but I'm thinking I mine as well get a bigger bar if I like the saw and get the right chain. I'm not an professional by any means but something that is solid and better than I can buy at home depot or lowes. Seems like the only bar/chain combos they sell there are the oregon bars with the vanguard chain which it seems most people around here dislike (I would assume because its home owner grade)

Thanks!

Justin
 
Just went out to the barn. Both fired right up on the second pull. One is definitely in better shape than the other but both are runners. May get them both tuned up and sell one, or as was stated, parts are hard to find, so keep one as a spare. Nice saws though!
 
I'd say to trawl feeBay for a "new old stock" hard nose to fit that old torquer.
The oiler (from that era) should be up to the task of keeping the chain sufficiently wet enough for that type of bar.
But then I am biased towards hard tips.
No problems with a nose sprocket being fowled by a dingleberry
or wondering "do I grease it or not..."
Plus you can try a different pitch chain if a good deal/opportunity comes up, just a simple, affordable, rim swap and your good to go.
 
Cool old saws, man!!great price. You should snag those little ones as well.
Ditto that. My cs302 was just always easy to crank, oiled like it should and predictable running.
That wicked pop of that deafeningly loud muffler was pretty cool sounding at idle.
Upon hearing it for the first time, my friend said "No wonder they named it Echo"
Yes I wear deeply inserted earplugs with it and all my other noisy tools now.
 
These were called 803 over here for some reason or other. And they are not that heavy when compared to some of the other makes and models from that era...
 
I believe Echo is gaining respect and popularity. Simple reliable well built saws that seem to weather time and use. Jos, that is a beautiful military version of the 750. I am sure there are some of us that would enjoy seeing more of your extensive Echo collection. One advantage (at least here in the USA) is that the older Echo saws are much cheaper than the Stihl/Husky counterparts.

More than 1 person on this forum has made the comment " They sit in the barn for years and just start when you add good gas".
 
Well, good to hear it wasn't a bad buy. They are heavy but i would likely use it as a bucking saw where the weight can do the work for me. I may even laser cut some bucking spikes for it for good measure.

If you want me to, I could take the spike off mine and scan it for a pattern for you if you want original style.

I don't know why I keep mine around, they are heavy for there displacement even given they time frame from when they were made. There also far from the most powerful for there displacement as well. They seem to like a 24" bar just fine but they really don't like any longer bars.

That said, there is something about this saw that I like. There very well thought out and constructed. They start easy and run well all the time. They cut wood!

The parts are getting hard to find, the outer fuel line has been NLA for quite a while now and would be a pain to replace as it has to seal the opening in the carb box as it goes through it. The AF and cover are specific to the 750 as far as I know. I know that a 602-702 filter wont work on it.

The broken clutch cover is a very common thing on these, they went to a longer cover on the 750 which is good but they made the casting just way to thin. A 601, 602, 701, 702 cover will fit the 750 but are the shorter style.

The 750 usually commands a decent buck when they show up on ebay so I think you got a better then good deal when you got yours.
 
The fuel line ist the least of the problems... cut a little sponge cylinder, push it over the (too thin) replacement line, connect line, push sponge in carb box hole ;)
 
If you want me to, I could take the spike off mine and scan it for a pattern for you if you want original style.

I don't know why I keep mine around, they are heavy for there displacement even given they time frame from when they were made. There also far from the most powerful for there displacement as well. They seem to like a 24" bar just fine but they really don't like any longer bars.

That said, there is something about this saw that I like. There very well thought out and constructed. They start easy and run well all the time. They cut wood!

The parts are getting hard to find, the outer fuel line has been NLA for quite a while now and would be a pain to replace as it has to seal the opening in the carb box as it goes through it. The AF and cover are specific to the 750 as far as I know. I know that a 602-702 filter wont work on it.

The broken clutch cover is a very common thing on these, they went to a longer cover on the 750 which is good but they made the casting just way to thin. A 601, 602, 701, 702 cover will fit the 750 but are the shorter style.

The 750 usually commands a decent buck when they show up on ebay so I think you got a better then good deal when you got yours.

These fuel lines that have to seal the opening in the carb box are a constant problem as modifiedmark mentions above. It would sure be nice if there was a place to get a grommet that fits the carb box and accomadate tygon fuel line.
 
The fuel line ist the least of the problems... cut a little sponge cylinder, push it over the (too thin) replacement line, connect line, push sponge in carb box hole ;)
I have been known to cut a small piece a larger ID tygon and run the fuel line through it. The larger ID piece seals the carb box. Kinda looks funky..a grommet would be cleaner in appearance.
 
Back
Top