picked up a pair of CS-750EVLs...

[SEAM]

Someone wanted Echo... here's a couple:
1965 Echo 80 original condition - runs after filling in fresh fuel
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1967 Echo 60 original condition - runs after diaphragm replacement
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Echo 60S with a bar thant's actually too long for it - but it gets the job done

 

[Modifiedmark]

These fuel lines that have to seal the opening in the carb box are a constant problem as modifiedmark mentions above. It would sure be nice if there was a place to get a grommet that fits the carb box and accomadate tygon fuel line.

That would probably work OK, you can get grommets from the electrical section most places. You might have to drill the hole out in the carb box a bit to get the grommet on it. You could use a 1/8" x 1/4" line as the 1/4" grommets are common. The thicker line might be able to be heated and stretched over the tank bulkhead fitting that way.

 

[SEAM]

Well yes but the carb fitting and the tank fitting are different sized also. Just makes it tougher

Not really - if you widen the hose using sharp-nosed pliers

 

[cedarshark]

Seam...nice saws ! The blue 60 is sporting a dual port muffler...thats forward thinking for the 60s. I assume you are in the perfect location to snag great Echos. Is that the #1 brand in Japan ?

 

[cedarshark]

Not really - if you widen the hose using sharp-nosed pliers

Does this require a little heat ?

 

[SEAM]

Seam...nice saws ! The blue 60 is sporting a dual port muffler...thats forward thinking for the 60s. I assume you are in the perfect location to snag great Echos. Is that the #1 brand in Japan ?

I don't think they were thinking dual port those days ...

And yes, there is the occasional Echo... they used to be the only (significant) Japanese chainsaw brand until the early 70s. There was some "Rabbit" chainsaws, but those are very rare.

 

[SEAM]

Does this require a little heat ?

Not really, just the pliers.

 

[JUSS10]

Well cool, glad to hear it was a good purchase. Already talked to the seller and plan to pick up the little 302 as well sometime this coming week. I'll probably sell off a few of my less desirable saws so as to not have so many, I'm well over 10 now in just a month or so... things could start to get crazy!

Modifiedmark, if you could scan it, that would be awesome! would really make it easier on me, thats for sure!

I did drop a tree with one of them today, can't really say it said much as the chain that is on it is pretty bad. I'll probably run to the local saw shop this week and see what they can get me for it. Otherwise Everything seems to function great on them. the one missing the air cleaner also appears to have anti vibration bushing issue and the nicer one has a kill switch problem, but nothing big.

I really dig that military issue one. Kind of makes me want to clean one up and give it an olive drab paint job!

They will need a good cleaning on the bench and then I'm sure more will be revealed.

What is the bolt/screw that is right under the spot where the bar bolts to the saw?

 

[Modifiedmark]

Well cool, glad to hear it was a good purchase. Already talked to the seller and plan to pick up the little 302 as well sometime this coming week. I'll probably sell off a few of my less desirable saws so as to not have so many, I'm well over 10 now in just a month or so... things could start to get crazy!

Modifiedmark, if you could scan it, that would be awesome! would really make it easier on me, thats for sure!

I did drop a tree with one of them today, can't really say it said much as the chain that is on it is pretty bad. I'll probably run to the local saw shop this week and see what they can get me for it. Otherwise Everything seems to function great on them. the one missing the air cleaner also appears to have anti vibration bushing issue and the nicer one has a kill switch problem, but nothing big.

I really dig that military issue one. Kind of makes me want to clean one up and give it an olive drab paint job!

They will need a good cleaning on the bench and then I'm sure more will be revealed.

What is the bolt/screw that is right under the spot where the bar bolts to the saw?

Send me a PM tomorrow and I'll see if I can work it in to get it done.

 

[JUSS10]

Would like a larger bar for one of these saws. Is the oregon 27850 bar/chain combo worth getting? I ask because there is an open package one at Lowes that I saw today. Doesn't look like it has a safety chain (granted I understand what a safety chain is) Is the bar any good? Chain?

And thanks Modifiedmark, I will shoot you message tomorrow.

 

[jeff taswelder]

you suck 1
you suck 2

 

[Modifiedmark]

Would like a larger bar for one of these saws. Is the oregon 27850 bar/chain combo worth getting? I ask because there is an open package one at Lowes that I saw today. Doesn't look like it has a safety chain (granted I understand what a safety chain is) Is the bar any good? Chain?

And thanks Modifiedmark, I will shoot you message tomorrow.

Depends on what your looking for in a bar and how much its been discounted. If I remember right ,that combo is a laminated bar with a Vanguard chain. Not the best of either but if your not using it a lot or expect it to last forever....

If your looking for a better bar, I see that Left Coast supplies has a very good selection of D176 bars at some fair prices.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I should also mention that if you use some bar spacers to up the size of the bar studs to 9mm you can also use a common large mount Husky bar on your Echo. They seem to like one drive link less chain then what the Husky bar calls for. Here is my 750 with a 28" bar on it. You can also see its using a 602 clutch cover on it also.

 

[JUSS10]

Thanks for the info! They said they'd sell me the bar/chain combo for $30. usually around $40 but I did some research on the chain and figured I'd just want to replace it in the near future so I just set it aside.

I forgot that I had a hard nose 20" homelite bar that is a spare for my Super XL. If I'm not mistaken, that uses 3/8" studs on that bar so I just turned some spacers at work to go from 8mm to 3/8" for that bar. the chain I'm fairly certain is the same pitch and what not. I think I may do that for now. How would I measure the chain to get fitted for this bar? I do have the chain for the 20" bar on my homelite currently (with a roller tip 20" bar) Is it best to try and fit that and add/subtract link count to get a new chain fitted?

 

[Modifiedmark]

The Super XL bar will be fine on your 750 as long as stud spacers are used. A Echo and Homelite use the same DL count so it should fit perfect. They used 70DL for a 20" bar.

 

[tallfarmboy]

I had a 750 for awhile... really liked how smooth it was in the cut... The adjustable oiler knob up top was very nice. Mine only had 130psi compression, but you you couldn't hardly stall it in the wood with sharp chain on a 20" bar.
You definitely earned 2 "you sucks" for the deal.

 

[JUSS10]

Ran home for lunch and fitted the homelite bar on the saw with the adapters I made. Works great (well, the bar is a little loose but just fine once its tightened down. Its a little ugly but I think I can clean it up with a wire brush on the drill then clean out the groove. Going to run to the local saw shop sometime in the next few days to see what they have for chain.

Justin

 

[JUSS10]

Also, I'm really tempted to pull one of these apart and do a quick restore on it. Not that I look at them from a collector stand point, but would repainting them "harm" their value? As you can see in the photo, I also collect vintage garden tractors and some of those its best to leave the patina. I'm guessing its different here but just curious.

Justin

 

[JUSS10]

Modifiedmark, thanks for the spike scan. I took the hole placement and "stylized" the spikes a bit and came up with this. I quick cut it from acrylic on a work laser to test fit before I get it laser cut from steel.

 

[cedarshark]

I dont mean to hijack this thread but as JUSS10 is considering rebuilding one of his 750s, I thought the answer to my question may be beneficial to him as well. I have been following this thread as I have a 702evl that I am working on and the saw is similar to the 750.

Problem: I pulled the top cover/handle off yesterday to repair the trigger spring that had fallen off. In the process, the throttle rod dropped off the trigger and carb and has fallen down into the case in the "black hole".

Solution: It appears that I will need to remove the the recoil housing to gain access to the space where the linkage rod has fallen.

Questions:

1) I have no service manual but do have the IPL. Does the carb and intake assembly need to be disassembled to get the recoil housing off ?

2) If I need to remove the carb to retrieve the rod, I will plan to rebuild the carb. Is there access to the fuel and impulse lines with the recoil cover off, and should I plan to do anything else while in there ?

3) The IPL shows no gasket between the recoil housing and case. Does this need to be sealed with sealant ?

Thanks for the help. I have no experience with the Echo saws, but this old 702 seems to be very welll built.