Pictures of home made mills

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I would love to see a mill like this up close and in person. Picture is one thing... watching how the contraption moves down the log is the real deal. I agree rail... thats how ideas get started, by seeing how somebody else does it, and try and improve on that.
 
Cool

Now thats ingenuity!! Just goes to show you that all of us are capable of engineering whatever we can picture in our heads to do whatever job we need to do. Macgyver x10!! Nice pic!!
 
circular mill and Minne Mo

The teeth aren't carbide, feed is powered, setworks are manual and sawdust elevator is the remnants of a Rosenthal 40 corn shredder cob elevator. Arbor is 3" next to blade 2 15/16" on the other 2 bearings. It is powered by a 8" flat belt and the blade turns at 450 rpm.
Put an 090 at each end of a bar and I'll beat you and have to be careful I don't foul the plugs at the same time. :hmm3grin2orange:
 
thanks marco... very interesting. Some folks really know how to make space shuttles from old washing machines don't they? Looks functional and I bet it cranks out some lumber. I'd like to see it first hand in action.
 
Do you run the mill of the David Brown (guess) hydraulics?

I hope you were able to find the hyd line second hand! That stuff adds up in a hurry.
Tractor yup back up to the power pack hook up the pto and go!

Hose !Nope I got the stuff new cost me 600 bucks for the fittings ,the flow control, and the hose!I got the hundred ft of hose for $125 garage saleing :bowdown: the flow control was new 300 bucks :( the fittings were the rest of the cost. and all other componants were all scronged. :hmm3grin2orange: :)
I will post some beter pics of the chain mill and some working pics later on if I can borrow the camera again! The chain mill is odd it cuts with the top of the blade saw dust exits the bottom and is pulled thru the log with a boat winch.
 
MORE, everybody, I love these. Especially the vertical!
I think Rail uses the PTO to drive a separate hyd pump...not running on hyd pressure.
 
More pictures of a homebuilt set up. If interested I have a few other pictures I can post early next week.

The first photo is of my Procut sawmill, pretty standard except I made the carriage wider and have made improvements to the log bed. The second and third shots are of my Simplesaw that runs on the same log bed. Half the fun is to add small changes/improvements to the design to make it operate better, certainly the Simplesaw has gone through a few upgrades.
 
FJH , I see your bandwheel made from a truck wheel , do you run the band on a bandwheel belt , v belt , or on the steel ?

Nope It runs directly on the aluminum alloy!What ever it is.No sign of wear yet but time will tell.
 
Nope It runs directly on the aluminum alloy!What ever it is.No sign of wear yet but time will tell.

Please could you tell us which truck the wheels come off of and did you have to machine the band running surface, and are the centre hubs from the same vehicle.

Have you worked out the packs oil flow rate and band running speed feet per minute.
 
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I see you are using a Cannon Superbar, what do you think about these, I use them and have converted my 50 inch 404 down to a 325 pitch, which runs very smooth and a lot faster.

Rail
I find no diffrence between it and the oregon bar on my other saw!42 inch bars
Useing the the saw on the top edge tends to be hard on the bars anyway
specialy when making 1 and 2 inch slab cuts.the chain mill is wonderful for making cants very acuate.(the chain beats the bar on narrow cuts)cant cuts are much easier on everything.
I have two power heads for the mill both 2100's I once mounted my 394xp on the mill but it dosent have the lugging power the 2100s have ,so I hunted down a spare 2100 I run 20 to one mix on both mill saws and when cutting thru a 24+ peice of wood the saws run clean no smoke at all but when doing slabs it tends to smoke sum as your not working the saw as hard,thats why i decided to build the band.
 
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Please could you tell us which truck the wheels come off of and did you have to machine the band running surface, and are the centre hubs from the same vehicle.

Have you worked out the packs oil flow rate and band running speed feet per minute.

The rims are off a standard hyw truck rig 24 inch machined flat on the outer edge of the rim the rim is adapted to a 3/4 ton ford p/u axle the pack flow New is 30 @ full tractor rpm I run the tractor at 1200-1600 rpms depending on how warm the oil is and how much preasure I see on the gauge open spool(nothing running)because the flow control valve is only a 20 gpm valve.The band wheels are running at 800 rpms according to how I figured it the bfpm aprox be 4200 - 4500 but as you see there is a flow control on there I worked it out so the flow is just about maxed out at 800 I need just a little extra to run the height control.Tim at Cooks saws gave me a fair amount of info on the speeds to be running.4000 to 5000 range seems to be the norm!I read some where that a guy was running at 5200 but was having issues of some sort so reduced the speed to 4800 and his issues went away so I decided that 42- 4500 would be my target speed.but i can adjust via flo or tractor rpm.It all depends on how I feel its cutting!Thats one of the reasonsI'm using the manual feed it provides another feel for how hard your pushing as well as watching the peasure gauge like a hawk!I had my share of wavy boards when I first fired up the mill due to pushing too fast Let the saw do its job.
Like I said before It takes NO MORE than 300 psi to move thru wood at a resonable speed or you got somthing happening a dull blade
tension in the wood or somthings a miss! Slow and steady wins the race!
 
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Many thanks for all the advise, this will help me get things done when I'm making my hydro set-up, most modern tractors give around 60 litres a minute or about 16 gallons, I have worked out that my wheel speed will be around a 1000 feet per minute.
I have bought a new energy saving hydro motor with a run down valve which protects the motor once the feed is cut off, the hydro guy says it will run as good as the older slightly larger capacity pumps, so time will tell if its any good, it was real cheap new, so I won't loose much if it don't work out.

Great idea using those truck wheels, I was racking my brain for ages trying to think of where to find something suitable.
 
Many thanks for all the advise, this will help me get things done when I'm making my hydro set-up, most modern tractors give around 60 litres a minute or about 16 gallons, I have worked out that my wheel speed will be around a 1000 feet per minute.
I have bought a new energy saving hydro motor with a run down valve which protects the motor once the feed is cut off, the hydro guy says it will run as good as the older slightly larger capacity pumps, so time will tell if its any good, it was real cheap new, so I won't loose much if it don't work out.

Great idea using those truck wheels, I was racking my brain for ages trying to think of where to find something suitable.

We'll see how great the idea of the wheels is after its run for a few months/ years But even if i get say 7-10 thousand ft out of them before resurfacing it will be worth it!The rims where worn out for there origanal purpose only good for weight .So far they are standing up well.
16 gals per minute is fine BUT you also have the heat to deal with ,bare that in mind when pottering about with things a tractor sump only holds so much oil and it is only working minamal hydralics A loader the 3pt hitch ect.this Milling is a a volume thing!
I tried runing the hyd motor direct to the shaft on the wheel but had to run 2000 rpm on the wheel to get power from the saw.You don't want 10000 bfpm! Its scary to watch.
Thinking I have a flow control to control speed, that didn't work !you need the flow lots of it!
If what your wanting to do was to work ,(I beleive it will )but You would think the tractor this set up was from ,would have been set up the way your discribing to run the road side mower but instead it was run off the pto!You need to ask your self Why?My answer is volume the tractor sump (Trany oil) most cases there is 20- 30 litre of oil you'll have it pretty warm pretty fast .
just keep that in the back of your mind while designing.Thats all I'm saying!
When I talked about doing this at work the guys didn't think it would work but it does .It may not be prety and refined looking but it gets the job done and it didnt cost me to much to build and definatly is cheap to operate aside from the blade and sharpening costs.
 
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