Pioneer chainsaws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Minimum compression reading on Farmsaw

What is the minimum compression reading on a Farmsaw that is considered ok.
I have read 90PSI on one and 110PSI on another. Don't know exact history of these saws.
 
pioneer 1110 diagram

found this lovely saw in a old mans basement and bought it for $10 ,and i'm looking for a shop manual diagram for my pioneer 1110,any pictures would help.thanks
 
Last edited:
What is the minimum compression reading on a Farmsaw that is considered ok.
I have read 90PSI on one and 110PSI on another. Don't know exact history of these saws.

Any saw, Pioneer or other makers saw needs over 120 lbs to run reasonably. A new saw will have close to 145 lbs comp cold. Once they get below 125 they need attention to work properly with fair - good power.
Pioneerguy600
 
looking for a shop manual diagram for my pioneer 1110,any pictures would help.thanks

If you go back through this thread a few pages and find a post by fellow AS member Petesoldsaw , in his sig line there is a link for all the Pioneer manuals and IPL`s, they can be downloaded easily. Also at the top of the page you can click on Chainsawr.com and it will take you to a site that has a link to all the IPL`s for most makers saws. I have several Pioneer 1110`s if you need any specific picts.
Pioneerguy600
 
handle grip

I have been trying to find a place to buy handlebar grip. Stihl's cost of $40 is a rediculous price - it's just vinyl tubing. If anyone has any other ideas, I would be interested. I'm still looking.
We used to install this type of grip on handles back in the days before plastic handlebars and enviromental concerns. Putting it is MEK causes it to swell so that it can be installed a lot easier on handle. It will shrink some after installation, so you need to have the installed ends pass where you want them when they are dry. A little MEK and a air nozzle with a small tip and it turns into a one man job.
 
What is the minimum compression reading on a Farmsaw that is considered ok.
I have read 90PSI on one and 110PSI on another. Don't know exact history of these saws.

Please do a search for compression test. It make a difference where the Schraeder valve is mounted. The wrong end causes low readings.
Lakeside and a few others have some very good comments about compression tests.
Lou
 
Bad Decomp valves

What is the minimum compression reading on a Farmsaw that is considered ok.
I have read 90PSI on one and 110PSI on another. Don't know exact history of these saws.

It appears both of these saws have bad decomp valves. P/N is 475322. Anyone know where I can get these? chainsawr don't seem to have them.
 
Yes removed wire to decomp valve

There is an automated decom valve. Did you remove the wire inside the starter cover that actuates the decomp?
Lou

Yes I removed wire as per earlier poster suggestion. One valve seems to leak worse than the other but both leak.
 
Yes I removed wire as per earlier poster suggestion. One valve seems to leak worse than the other but both leak.

If you don`t find new ones all that I have ever done to get the decomp working properly is to remove them and soak out the carbon in carb cleaner. Cl;ean them up and blow themout with comp air, they will work like new.
Pioneerguy600
 
Handlebar repair - my solution

I have been trying to find a place to buy handlebar grip. Stihl's cost of $40 is a rediculous price - it's just vinyl tubing. If anyone has any other ideas, I would be interested. I'm still looking.
We used to install this type of grip on handles back in the days before plastic handlebars and enviromental concerns. Putting it is MEK causes it to swell so that it can be installed a lot easier on handle. It will shrink some after installation, so you need to have the installed ends pass where you want them when they are dry. A little MEK and a air nozzle with a small tip and it turns into a one man job.

Howdy . In reply to your dilema . Since its impossible to find any thing original for the handle bars of these great Pioneer saws , I decided to try my way . Went to an electrical supply shop & bought whatever dia. industrial shrink tube needed to slide over my handlebars . Then I heated it with a hair dryer . Then I repeated the same again to build it up to where it had the feel I wanted . Keep the ends cut even & neat & let the glue in the tubing seal the ends for a tite fit . I think it looks as good as original . HTH ! God bless, Ken :clap::clap:
 
carb for 11-20

no luck locally on getting a carb for my 1120 although the shop had a nice p-26 and some" old monster as big as a johnson 5.5 hp outboard". I dont know exactly know what it was but it wasnt for sale anyway. It was BIG thats all I know.

So question there is a tilotson HS-12-a for sale on e-bay off a 11-30 Would this fit on my 11-20 ? It has the choke knob all attached. I think if it would that and a rebuild kit would be a good place to start. Thanks

Maine Guide
 
no luck locally on getting a carb for my 1120 although the shop had a nice p-26 and some" old monster as big as a johnson 5.5 hp outboard". I dont know exactly know what it was but it wasnt for sale anyway. It was BIG thats all I know.

So question there is a tilotson HS-12-a for sale on e-bay off a 11-30 Would this fit on my 11-20 ? It has the choke knob all attached. I think if it would that and a rebuild kit would be a good place to start. Thanks

Maine Guide

If it really did come off a 1130 then yes it will fit your 1120. Pioneer actually did make some of the 1100 series saws with chokes. I checked my Tillotson Master manual and they don`t have the HS12 a carb in there so I cannot verify that carb through that source.

Pioneerguy600
 
early bird gets the worm

by the time I got back from the woodlot someone had bought the carb I was looking at for my 1120. oh well. but at least it gave me hope that I can do this it was the first time looking on e-bay for chainsaw parts.I'm sure another one will pop up.
 
by the time I got back from the woodlot someone had bought the carb I was looking at for my 1120. oh well. but at least it gave me hope that I can do this it was the first time looking on e-bay for chainsaw parts.I'm sure another one will pop up.

I am going to try out a theory of mine, that the carb from another very popular saw will interchange with the Pioneer 1100 series saws. I will give it a try this weekend and let you know. It is quite likely I have more than a few of them around here.
Pioneerguy600
 
For the want of a nail

seems to me there are a lot of 1100's that need a simple parts source one tiny hard to find part can shut down a whole fleet of saws. Be great if your theroy is correct. One thing about the 1120 thats nice is it has a metal filter cover not the later plastic that is such a problem to obtain in good shape.

Question What was the difference between the saws in the 1100 series? features displacements or just style up-dates? The 1130 seems pretty close to my 1120.

Thanks

Maine Guide
 
The recoil on a 600-6-10.....
If it has a tree on it it is Pioneer, and if it is plain it is Fairbanks Morse, is that correct? The Pioneer recoils had parts that were prone to break? If so are replacements available or is the part that breaks something that would be relatively easy to fabricate?

You would be very lucky to find some of the nylon pawl parts to fit the OEM Pioneer starters but they are easy to fab up from aluminum if you have one to copy from. All the starters with the green tree were OEM starters and only came on the early 600`s. My dads 600 was the 30 th one made, it has the green tree starter and we never traded it in for a Fairbanks Morse setup.

Pioneerguy600
 
Back
Top