That exhaust side doesn`t look good.
Pioneer chainsaws
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Thanks. I was trying to convince myself it wasn't that bad. I think this saw looks cool enough that I'm going to go ahead and take it apart and do an over the top resto. I guess I'll have to go inside.
I've never rebuilt any chainsaw. Is it possible to rotate the piston and reinstall it? If the other side of the piston isn't scarred, and you plan to use it for display only, I see no reason to do more than absolutely necessary.
Does the 700 have an automated compression release? If yes, did you disable it rarefish383?
My only rebuild to date was a 1968 Javelin, bought new ($2,500.00 with Dad's co-signature). She was ordered and I took delivery just 3 days before I turned 18. She had 179,000 miles on her when the large timing gear came apart. She did get me home but would not start the next morning. My part worked great (mains, rods, and cam bearings, ridge reamed 8 cylinders, new rings, timing gears, and chain). The machine shop I sent the heads to put oversized valve guides on standard valve stems. Oil consumption was so high I sold her. She was good to me for 12 years, I hated to see her go. The only shortcoming I can think of was she loved to wallow in the mud, right up to the frame. Not a good thing for a young gent in farm country looking for a little privacy with a young lass!
Does the 700 have an automated compression release? If yes, did you disable it rarefish383?
My only rebuild to date was a 1968 Javelin, bought new ($2,500.00 with Dad's co-signature). She was ordered and I took delivery just 3 days before I turned 18. She had 179,000 miles on her when the large timing gear came apart. She did get me home but would not start the next morning. My part worked great (mains, rods, and cam bearings, ridge reamed 8 cylinders, new rings, timing gears, and chain). The machine shop I sent the heads to put oversized valve guides on standard valve stems. Oil consumption was so high I sold her. She was good to me for 12 years, I hated to see her go. The only shortcoming I can think of was she loved to wallow in the mud, right up to the frame. Not a good thing for a young gent in farm country looking for a little privacy with a young lass!
The least I would do is go inside, remove the cylinder and clean off all the aluminum transfer from the wall, check for any deep scratches or gouges. Free up the piston rings if possible from the ring lands. I have just cleaned up rough pistons by removing high spots on old Pioneer saws and run them, new rings if possible but even cleaned up old ones often got me over 120 lbs comp, a few got 145 - 150 and those saws still run. 40:1 mix in all my old stuff, some pistons and cylinders looked so bad many thought they were junk but a little handi work on them and they still run today. After all how much wood does an old saw actually need to cut any more?
My old saws are pampered pets. This case is so nice it has very little pitting in it. It will make a perfect resto project as far as metal and paint go. Under the covers there is virtually no crud in it, no clogged fins. I just got my shop wired with better light and power, this can be the first project In the new shop.
As I mentioned before, these 700 series saws can suffer from cast iron bore wear due to the lousy air filter setup. I may have a better used piston for you but rings will be harder to get. These saws aren't hard to disassemble although the deep crankcase can make removing the piston problematic.
The skil saws were made by PM Canadien
if you get lucky to find a 1690...
i need a top cover for mine
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
They're pretty easy to work on. The one I had, the lower ring was actually broken, but still retained in the ring land. I ordered some rings from the greek on ebay and file fit them. The saw makes decent compression now, more than enough to run. I used a "scotchbrite hone" (scotchbrite in an eye bolt) to scuff the bore and clean it up a little. The transfers on the 700 seem really small compared to the other pioneers of that vintage that I've worked on.
Crank seals are a b**** to do as you have to split the cases. If it doesn't have spark or the coil is a cracked mess, then there are aftermarket Evinrude/Johnson outboard coils that are a direct replacement.
Ideally I need the decals and foot peg thing for mine to be complete, but i'm satisfied for now.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
I also got rings for my RA project finally, now i'm just waiting on a recoil spring for the starter and it'll be finished.
As you can see there are some pretty major casting flaws in the flywheel housing (cold laps and inclusions looks like) and the handle bar is very rusty (this is after I used steel wool to clean it up) but it seems to have not had a ton of use otherwise.
Its a later RA because the lettering is cast into the top cover and it has the green pioneer tag on the back of the flywheel housing.
I'll post more photos whenever it actually gets finished.
As you can see there are some pretty major casting flaws in the flywheel housing (cold laps and inclusions looks like) and the handle bar is very rusty (this is after I used steel wool to clean it up) but it seems to have not had a ton of use otherwise.
Its a later RA because the lettering is cast into the top cover and it has the green pioneer tag on the back of the flywheel housing.
I'll post more photos whenever it actually gets finished.
More outstanding (and inspiring) work right there. Beautiful.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks!
This saw was completely seized when I bought it. I'm just happy that I've been able to clean it up and get it this far. Big thanks the @rocketnorton for helping me out with some parts along the way!
You don't need to split the cases on these to change crank seals. You may be thinking of the 600s with that lip over the flywheel side seal.
Regarding the transfers, those were one of the major improvements through the series. The 700 has small drilled transfers, 3 on each side. The 750 has them hogged out some, my 1770 and 1850 has those opened up further and 2 of the transfers on each side are connected into one large transfer. This required a change to the piston from an unpinned ring to pinned. You can use a later piston in an early saw, but not vice-versa.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
You're right, I was incorrectly remembering that they were the same as the 600 series in that respect.
Here's something I wouldn't mind playing with, a pioneer 2400. However, the $300 asking price is way too much for a non runner.
White_Fang
ArboristSite Lurker
Not so long ago I tried to repair Pioneer P26 easy arc start 'saw I got from my neighbor for free, I got it running and adjusted, but had bad luck with old bearings and seals so it got cylinder and piston little damaged. Now I finally got some parts 'saw for repairing my Pioneer P26, but I'm not sure what would be the best option to do about bad bearings and seals.
Because finding new original bearing/seal would be almost impossible, what are yours Brands recommendation for replacement of original bearings and seals on Pioneer P26 easy arc start chainsaw (any on the market that fits, or to especially look for one that withstands high RPM&Temperatures), and are the used bearings and seals from a parts 'saw worth reusing or it won't seal/sit right?
Thanks again for good and quality information about repairs on the 'saws
, and keep up the good work restoring old and legendary 'saws. 
Because finding new original bearing/seal would be almost impossible, what are yours Brands recommendation for replacement of original bearings and seals on Pioneer P26 easy arc start chainsaw (any on the market that fits, or to especially look for one that withstands high RPM&Temperatures), and are the used bearings and seals from a parts 'saw worth reusing or it won't seal/sit right?
Thanks again for good and quality information about repairs on the 'saws
, and keep up the good work restoring old and legendary 'saws.
Not so long ago I tried to repair Pioneer P26 easy arc start 'saw I got from my neighbor for free, I got it running and adjusted, but had bad luck with old bearings and seals so it got cylinder and piston little damaged. Now I finally got some parts 'saw for repairing my Pioneer P26, but I'm not sure what would be the best option to do about bad bearings and seals.
Because finding new original bearing/seal would be almost impossible, what are yours Brands recommendation for replacement of original bearings and seals on Pioneer P26 easy arc start chainsaw (any on the market that fits, or to especially look for one that withstands high RPM&Temperatures), and are the used bearings and seals from a parts 'saw worth reusing or it won't seal/sit right?
Thanks again for good and quality information about repairs on the 'saws
You should start by taking the saw apart and getting the old bearings and seals in your hands. That said, I think they are standard ball bearings and common seals. Just make sure bearings C3 rated for this application.
This is a saw I picked up a couple of weeks ago. Late model Farmsaw . It has the western style clutch, newer top decal, rear discharge exhaust and an 8 tooth drive sprocket. ASt first look I thought the spring on the brake handle pivot bolt was someone cob job but when I looked closer I was not sure. Today I was sent photos from another collector that has the same setup on one of his Farmsaws?? Has anyone else got one of these?? May be on any of the larger P series saws??
p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
That`s a very interesting version of a farm saw, I purchased a new one back maybe 1980-81 but mine was not like that and I traded in on P42, I have 41-42 and 51-52 and 61-62 and also a P65 with the metal brake handle and I have never seen that version, I will be watching close to see if you can figure out some history on it
My FarmSaw never had a chain brake.
Does the brake function? Maybe someone's method of disabling it.
Does the brake function? Maybe someone's method of disabling it.
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