Pioneer chainsaws

[Beavers]

Length is 43 "

 

[pioneerguy600]

I have 3 chainsaws that are or were in regular use.
I cannot think of one time I ever found the end of the starter rope.
Perhaps your cord is shorter than it should be. I cannot give you the proper length, perhaps someone else can.

I cannot recall specifically for the Farmsaw but for many Pioneers that size the rope was between 41 to 43 inches long, that would get one in the ball park.

Ha, I see Brian beat me to the punch...LOL

 

[Beavers]

The 41" is for models P41, P51, P61, .156" Dia rope cord
43" is for 1074, P26E, P28E, FM, .130" Dia rope cord

Your not far behind Jerry , Ha Ha back to ya

 

[Lou]

The 41" is for models P41, P51, P61, .156" Dia rope cord
43" is for 1074, P26E, P28E, FM, .130" Dia rope cord

Your not far behind Jerry , Ha Ha back to ya

Is that usable length or length before the knots are added?
The smart-arse in me knows that one correct answer for my question is yes; please clarify.
TIA
Lou
Probably too late but if you hold the "Alt" key, and type 248 then release it you get a ° symbol.
I just looked and do not see a diameter symbol "slashed O with an accent above" on the ASCI table.

 

[pioneerguy600]

The 41" is for models P41, P51, P61, .156" Dia rope cord
43" is for 1074, P26E, P28E, FM, .130" Dia rope cord

Your not far behind Jerry , Ha Ha back to ya

To post up all that information I would have to go to the books, for better or worse I just post out of my memory.....LOL

 

[edju1958]

Thanks guys for all the helpful advice! I was out cutting today & noticed the oiler quit working on the Farmsaw.When I first got it it was puking out oil like no tomorrow,now I got nothing.I had 3 other saws go down too,one is an easy fix,the others not so much.

 

[Beavers]

Memory ,wish l had one sometimes...........LOL

 

[Lou]

After I retired from the Air Force and stopped repairing aircraft Instrument systems I started a second career calibrating industrial equipment (the same job without wings and an error won't create a smoking hole). I used that degree symbol ° (Alt 248) and the ± symbol (Alt 241) constantly.
Lou

 

[fxer]

Those easy arc starters are particularly annoying to assemble. Getting the spool onto the spring is the hard part. It either pops on first try or it takes 100. If you do take everything apart for inspection try to align the hook part of the starter spring to be close to the center post as possible(if that makes sense) so that the spring will snap into the notch on the spool. I find that using a pick or something similar to fish in and push the spring into place as your pushing the spool down helps a bit. This is all done blind do bring your patience.....
As mentioned you need to remove the decompression lever and friction thingy to access everything and to tension. You can simply look at the other stater you have as a reference once you put everything back together.

You should put a small washer into the top of the starter handle to help catch the knot or make a double knot. I can make a video and send it to you if you have get stuck.

I use small ty-wraps to hold spring after it is pulled to proper diameter to fit in spool. I usually use five of them to hold it tight and after every thing is back together in right spots [ center of spool and hook on outside edge] I push tight and cut one wrap at a time pulling it out around edge with a small needle nose pliers. I hope my description is clear enough. fxer

 

[Pioneer]

Does anyone know where I can find a piston ring for a pioneer p-26? Thought I might as well do it while the saw is torn apart. By the way if anybody wants pictures of the internals, now's the time to ask.

 

[Beavers]

Does anyone know where I can find a piston ring for a pioneer p-26? Thought I might as well do it while the saw is torn apart. By the way if anybody wants pictures of the internals, now's the time to ask.

l have some . PM me

 

[ML12]

The chainsaw work has been slow here. Just working on restoring a HA/HB at the moment. Had to do a bunch of tig repairs to the aluminum castings, and I wound up doing a bunch of machining and making new pieces too.

The old reed was cracked, so I machined a new pin out of W1 steel, did a heat treat on it and i'll make the new reed from a phenolic material. Had to sand the reed plate on glass with 400 grit to flatten it out. The saw sat with some water in the bottom end at some point.


The massive pile of parts: it needs a carb float and other pieces, so I just ordered a spare old carb from an outboard, tillotson MD, should provide the pieces I need.


Got it all sandblasted, primed and painted. Just waiting now for the color to dry before I spray the clearcoat.


And figured I would leave you all with a taste of what I've been getting up to while not working on chainsaws, I've taken up hiking and basic mountaineering.

 

[Beavers]

The chainsaw work has been slow here. Just working on restoring a HA/HB at the moment. Had to do a bunch of tig repairs to the aluminum castings, and I wound up doing a bunch of machining and making new pieces too.

The old reed was cracked, so I machined a new pin out of W1 steel, did a heat treat on it and i'll make the new reed from a phenolic material. Had to sand the reed plate on glass with 400 grit to flatten it out. The saw sat with some water in the bottom end at some point.
View attachment 902421

The massive pile of parts: it needs a carb float and other pieces, so I just ordered a spare old carb from an outboard, tillotson MD, should provide the pieces I need.
View attachment 902425

Got it all sandblasted, primed and painted. Just waiting now for the color to dry before I spray the clearcoat.
View attachment 902422

And figured I would leave you all with a taste of what I've been getting up to while not working on chainsaws, I've taken up hiking and basic mountaineering. View attachment 902423

lf l remember correctly Scott outboard motors used the Tilly MD model carb on some of their motors. l may be wrong thouugh. A lot of water has passed under the bridge since.
Nice work and nice Pics , keepthe Pics coming.

l am pretty sure l have new reeds here. l must take a look.

 

[Beavers]

The chainsaw work has been slow here. Just working on restoring a HA/HB at the moment. Had to do a bunch of tig repairs to the aluminum castings, and I wound up doing a bunch of machining and making new pieces too.

The old reed was cracked, so I machined a new pin out of W1 steel, did a heat treat on it and i'll make the new reed from a phenolic material. Had to sand the reed plate on glass with 400 grit to flatten it out. The saw sat with some water in the bottom end at some point.
View attachment 902421

The massive pile of parts: it needs a carb float and other pieces, so I just ordered a spare old carb from an outboard, tillotson MD, should provide the pieces I need.
View attachment 902425

Got it all sandblasted, primed and painted. Just waiting now for the color to dry before I spray the clearcoat.
View attachment 902422

And figured I would leave you all with a taste of what I've been getting up to while not working on chainsaws, I've taken up hiking and basic mountaineering. View attachment 902423

I THINK I NEED TO GET OUT OF THE HOUSE A LITTLE MORE !

 

[89HD]

The chainsaw work has been slow here. Just working on restoring a HA/HB at the moment. Had to do a bunch of tig repairs to the aluminum castings, and I wound up doing a bunch of machining and making new pieces too.

The old reed was cracked, so I machined a new pin out of W1 steel, did a heat treat on it and i'll make the new reed from a phenolic material. Had to sand the reed plate on glass with 400 grit to flatten it out. The saw sat with some water in the bottom end at some point.
View attachment 902421

The massive pile of parts: it needs a carb float and other pieces, so I just ordered a spare old carb from an outboard, tillotson MD, should provide the pieces I need.
View attachment 902425

Got it all sandblasted, primed and painted. Just waiting now for the color to dry before I spray the clearcoat.
View attachment 902422

And figured I would leave you all with a taste of what I've been getting up to while not working on chainsaws, I've taken up hiking and basic mountaineering. View attachment 902423

Very nice work. Very nice place to go for a hike also.

 

[brain150]

This is a great forum!

I am still running a Pioneer P25, but lost the bolts for the muffler. I have a manual, but it's hardly readable anymore. Does someone have the Illustrated parts catalogue or the sizes of the bolts (parts ref no. 38 & 39?)

 

[Beavers]

This is a great forum!

I am still running a Pioneer P25, but lost the bolts for the muffler. I have a manual, but it's hardly readable anymore. Does someone have the Illustrated parts catalogue or the sizes of the bolts (parts ref no. 38 & 39?)

Does this help?

 

[Beavers]

Does this help?

Note: You will need a thin walled 5/16" socket to remove or install item #39

 

[ML12]

lf l remember correctly Scott outboard motors used the Tilly MD model carb on some of their motors. l may be wrong thouugh. A lot of water has passed under the bridge since.
Nice work and nice Pics , keepthe Pics coming.

l am pretty sure l have new reeds here. l must take a look.

Did you find the reeds? Its a round disk, 0.0915" thick is what I measured.

 

[Beavers]

Did you find the reeds? Its a round disk, 0.0915" thick is what I measured.

This is what l found so far. 3 different ones. l notice the number of coils on your reed plate tension screw are #6 , do you think that might pose a problems later on?. is your spring the original one? The number of coils on this springs here in the pics are #8.