Pioneer chainsaws

[fossil]

You really need to test it under load to get it dialed in.

Since you don't have any wood to test it in, the owner's manual says to start at 1 turn out on both needles.

Personally I would set the low needle at about 1-1/8 turns out and the high needle at 1-1/16 out.

When you do get some wood, make sure the saw four strokes out of the cut and cleans up under load.

 

[Old-Feller]

I have a P50S saw here that I intend to send down the road and have ordered a repair kit for the Walbro SDC carb. This carb has the richening circuit to prevent over-revving, so I am wondering once I have the kit installed, how does a person go about tuning the high speed needle on this saw? Can anyone here give me a tutorial? I don't have any wood here to test it in.

There are plenty of videos explaining how to adjust chainsaw carbs, I was a mechanic for 30 years, Yet I watched about 10 videos on carb adjustments. Much different than the heavy equipt I was working on. I have a good handle on it now, It's like a light bulb went off in my head after messing with a few, It easy once you get it. Each guy on youtube has his own way of doing it, I used a little bit of info from several different guys, There are some guys on there who don't have a clue and have no business trying to show anybody. Watch guy's who do small engine repair or just chainsaws.

 

[Old-Feller]

I meant Dad had a IEL my mistake Les

Yeah "ICL" Is a Canadian Wildcat Cartridge!

.303 ICL Improved​

 

[Sepia]

You really need to test it under load to get it dialed in.

Since you don't have any wood to test it in, the owner's manual says to start at 1 turn out on both needles.

Personally I would set the low needle at about 1-1/8 turns out and the high needle at 1-1/16 out.

When you do get some wood, make sure the saw four strokes out of the cut and cleans up under load.

Thank you for the reply , Tim. I kinda figured I would need some wood to tune it properly but hoped someone knew a different method. Looks like I am going to have to make a trip back north - lots of trees down back there after the storm a few weeks ago.

 

[Sepia]

There are plenty of videos explaining how to adjust chainsaw carbs, I was a mechanic for 30 years, Yet I watched about 10 videos on carb adjustments. Much different than the heavy equipt I was working on. I have a good handle on it now, It's like a light bulb went off in my head after messing with a few, It easy once you get it. Each guy on youtube has his own way of doing it, I used a little bit of info from several different guys, There are some guys on there who don't have a clue and have no business trying to show anybody. Watch guy's who do small engine repair or just chainsaws.

I have tuned quite a few chainsaws over the years, but this is the first saw I have had that had the carb richener circuit. As such, you can't tell when the saw is tuned lean on the high side because the valve will dump more fuel in before the rpms get high enough to lean out the saw (if that makes sense - I'm not great at explaining things).

I did search youtube university with no luck before posting here.
I will do as fossil suggested and tune it in some wood.

 

[fossil]

@CJ Brown

There is one other option.

You can defeat the governor by removing the brass governor and dropping a piece of pop or beer can that you can punch out with a paper punch.
Drop the piece in the hole and replace the the governor. That will block it off.
The plugs can be sealed very well and can be difficult to remove.
A lot of guys have done that. I've never had to defeat one as they all worked well for me.

I have tried it and since they are set to keep the carb where the saw is at max torque in the cut, I didn't experience any cutting speed increase. It will be easier to tune though.
A ported saw would require that it be defeated due to increased RPM's.

Best of luck with it. P50's are real rippers! Maybe the best of the 5 cube Pioneers (except for the paint).

 

[Sepia]

Thanks for the tip. I will just leave the carb as it came from the factory. If the next owner wants to mess with defeating the governor that's up to him. I am curious to see how well it cuts. If I didn't have so many saws already I would be tempted to add it to the collection since it seems like a beast of a saw when you hold it. They certainly don't build them like they used to!

 

[Lou]

It's not mine and I know nothing more than the Craigs List says.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/grd/d/woodinville-pioneer-650-chainsaw/7509352955.htmlThought some of you might be interested.
Lou

 

[xl130]

I just finished rebuilding the fuel system for a 750. It finally fires up and runs but I see that that crappy primer system is leaking.

Im guessing if the seals are bad on that primer, air will find it’s way into the fuel sytem?

Any tips on rebuilding the primer or just simply plug the port and bypass?

 

[cbfarmall]

How is it leaking? There are repairable check valves, inlet and outlet, and the plunger has a fat oring. Usually the check valves stick and nothing happens, the plunger oring can leak and it'll spray fuel up.

 

[xl130]

When I had it apart I pumped it and couldn’t feel any air pressure or suction. When you plunge it after assembly fuel leaks out at the top(plunger).

I rebuilt carb. Put in new hoses and a new gasket at the glass bulb.

It fires up and idles but speeds up. Definitely seems like an air leak somewhere. The primer was my first guess.

Are the primer parts easy to find? Grainger or NAPA?

 

[cbfarmall]

The plunger is just an oring to change. I would look at metric replacements here--standard doesn't quite fit. Inlet check is where the line from the bowl enters the primer. Unscrew this. There is probably a melted rubber disk here retained by a small, fragile clip. Save the clip, clean the rubber crap completely and replace with a thin, fuel resistant, 1/4" diaphragm punching that will allow movement. The outlet check valve is behind a slotted screw head in the primer body. Consists of a needle, spring and tiny oring. Dash 002 or 001 I think. The primer assembly is behind the air filter base. You may be able to do all this work without separating the tank from the engine. Maybe not.

Unfortunately, these things stick, set up, and fail with time. It'll work for a while and then fail again.

Pioneer missed the boat using these primers and not using standard ignitions like Wico.

 

[xl130]

Thanks for the tips. Very helpful information! Just found your post over on collectors.SE. Great post. Good information and pictures.

 

[cbfarmall]

For what it's worth, Rottman's had the orings last I checked. I would definitely find some new type diaphragm for the inlet check valve and stay away from NOS.

 

[cbfarmall]

The trickier primers are the 3200 style on 65/77cc saws. I have also managed to repair those. Same 2 check valves, no plunger and oring. Instead, there is a diamphragm screwed to a button and sandwiched in the primer housing. I made a custom thin, flat diaphragm work here. Nothing fancy. There are no more NOS diaphragms.

 

[xl130]

I have a 3200 that I brought back to life. Awesome saw! One of my favourites for sure. I just unhooked the primer and shoot fuel in with a bottle. Kind of a pain but definitely not interested in rebuilding the primer! Maybe someday…..,

 

[cbfarmall]

You can do that. Just have to be careful not to leave any fuel lines or ports open. Some setups draw primer fuel from the tank others use the same filter bowl thingy in the air box.

I forgot, these 3200 saws have a 2nd check valve at the crankcase. Unscrew that fitting at the end of the primer line and there is another needle check valve under there.

 

[Beavers]

I have a 3200 that I brought back to life. Awesome saw! One of my favourites for sure. I just unhooked the primer and shoot fuel in with a bottle. Kind of a pain but definitely not interested in rebuilding the primer! Maybe someday…..,

l have the nos 308528 o-ring if you still need one , PM me if l can help.

 

[farmguywithasaw]

So i got another 1200a project the other day. It really pays too pull the muffler before trying to fire a saw. Someone put the piston in backwards. I had both ring locator pin/ end gaps staring back up at me lol

 

[cbfarmall]

Finally finished this one. Super 2400. I think this was a low hour saw when the rod bearing cage failed and took out the top end. I used a good 3270 cylinder and rod (same parts), new piston, bearings, seals. Rebuilt the primer. Had some issues with the carb. Needle didn't want to pop off till 30 psi, the kit needle turned out to be at fault. Now, the saw is a great cutter. Only thing lacking is a spike. If anybody has one or 2, I'd be interested.

The saw: