The coils may be hard to find , l have never seen that flag handle on a Pioneer, Good find.
Pioneer chainsaws
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Good day sir i have new old stock one
I have not seen that handle on one before either most of the other brake parts are not on it. No spring or brake band
@89HD; Did you try baking the coil you have?
My Farmsaw lost its spark while at a GTG in Oregon quite a few years back in 1991, 1992, or 1993 (Sometime in late 1985± my saw went into storage in Alamogordo NM) when I got orders for Germany. Everything (including the saw was delivered here (Seattle area) in 1991 after I retired in 1990. The saw ran when delivered.) I read past posts and found loss of spark to be common with the Prestolite coil. I think the coil isn't well sealed and moisture gets inside (IMO around the ignition wire) where it shorts out the coil. I tried to bake the coil for 16 hours @ 200° if memory serves but even though my oven clock is configured for a 24-hour time display it shut down after 12 hours. It turned out 12 hours was enough. I started my Farmsaw using that recovered coil about a week ago after the saw resided on a shelf above a concrete floor in my garage and had not been started for at least 15 years.
Good luck.
There is more discussion about this Prestolite coil problem earlier in this thread and buried in past posts elsewhere in other topic posts.
Please be careful if you bake it. Most electronics don't do well in excessive heat. 200° or less shouldn't do any damage. It does need to be hot enough to evaporate all moisture inside the coil.
My Farmsaw lost its spark while at a GTG in Oregon quite a few years back in 1991, 1992, or 1993 (Sometime in late 1985± my saw went into storage in Alamogordo NM) when I got orders for Germany. Everything (including the saw was delivered here (Seattle area) in 1991 after I retired in 1990. The saw ran when delivered.) I read past posts and found loss of spark to be common with the Prestolite coil. I think the coil isn't well sealed and moisture gets inside (IMO around the ignition wire) where it shorts out the coil. I tried to bake the coil for 16 hours @ 200° if memory serves but even though my oven clock is configured for a 24-hour time display it shut down after 12 hours. It turned out 12 hours was enough. I started my Farmsaw using that recovered coil about a week ago after the saw resided on a shelf above a concrete floor in my garage and had not been started for at least 15 years.
Good luck.
There is more discussion about this Prestolite coil problem earlier in this thread and buried in past posts elsewhere in other topic posts.
Please be careful if you bake it. Most electronics don't do well in excessive heat. 200° or less shouldn't do any damage. It does need to be hot enough to evaporate all moisture inside the coil.
Husqvarna coil from many saws...350, 268, 272, etc can be fitted to work.
I think someone has posted a link to where a husqvana coil was used. It is on this thread somewhere. I was lucky enough to find a replacement coil on a parts saw I bought but I tried to find one on line, but no one is giving up there spares. They are like rocking horse poop. Good luck.
Any body happen to have any info for the IEL Beaver
I got this beaver from a local Museum that changed hands.It has local history including cutting wood for the stern wheelers.
When i got it it would not make a complete turn in either direction.
It's -45C here today so i decided it would be a good day to see why it wouldn't make the rotation.
Not much left to hide anymore,but the issue is still there.Pull the jug off tomorow see what is hiding under there.
I have a parts beaver coming
I got this beaver from a local Museum that changed hands.It has local history including cutting wood for the stern wheelers.
When i got it it would not make a complete turn in either direction.
It's -45C here today so i decided it would be a good day to see why it wouldn't make the rotation.
Not much left to hide anymore,but the issue is still there.Pull the jug off tomorow see what is hiding under there.
I have a parts beaver coming
.One time l had the same issue with a engine that would lockup and l found a loose. connecting rod cap bolt. This maybe a area for you to look.
Not many of those saws around and nice find. .Often missing is the Str ring plate on the recoil side and l see it on your saw.
Not many of those saws around and nice find. .Often missing is the Str ring plate on the recoil side and l see it on your saw.
There was a small square of brass stuck between the jug and counterweight.
Lots of brass in these.
Lots of brass in these.
There a few similarities in the AB,
Some...
The clutch is completely different.The carb on this one looks like as basic as you can get.
The clutch is completely different.The carb on this one looks like as basic as you can get.
Picked up a 3270s last summer, needs a couple parts, wouldn't turn over easily I figured some bad bearings. Started tearing it apart yesterday. Never know what’s in the box till you open it. I think the crank, cylinder and piston are good, not much wear on the parts.
should be a good project t get cleaned and rebuilt.
should be a good project t get cleaned and rebuilt.
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Better check the crank journal. Looks like that had water in it. Shouldn't be hard to find a spare at least
Came around nicely. What was your process for cleaning it up? (And did you pull the bearings first?)
That is still the original bearings on the crank, cleaned with a little 800 grit paper, not really any damage to the crank,
working on cleaning it up now.
Was just curious if you may have used any type of solvent or maybe even a few cycles in a USC with the bearings still on the crank. Contrary to all conventional wisdom, and as a result of the suggestion from a fairly well known saw builder, I've actually restored some pretty nasty bearings with a USC using a variety of the typical de-greaser/cleaning products we're all familiar with in a 50/50 mix with water. Yeah, water. As long as they're just nasty with filth, funk and even a certain amount of internal engine debris and corrosion, the results can be pretty amazing if one is patient and stays on top of the process. The main key is getting them dried and oiled quickly after letting the USC do its thing for an hour or three. Shooting them with brake clean after drying and giving them a few good spins before oiling will pretty much reveal anything you wouldn't want to commit to or save. If they feel good, oil em up and re-use em, or drop em in a zip lock bag with some oil for a rainy day. Out of the seven or eight I've done so far that I would have tossed otherwise, all but one cleaned up nice and smooth.
Obviously not something you'd do on a regular basis for common bearings but can definitely have its place for certain situations and circumstances. It actually works surprisingly well. The process may be more common than I think, but I always thought the last place you'd want a bearing to be is in a container full of hot water and detergent. Silly me.
Obviously not something you'd do on a regular basis for common bearings but can definitely have its place for certain situations and circumstances. It actually works surprisingly well. The process may be more common than I think, but I always thought the last place you'd want a bearing to be is in a container full of hot water and detergent. Silly me.
Got the 3270s parts cleaned up and the cylinder is bad, missing plating, so the rest of the saw is 
for parts now. Some good parts here I’m not going to use.
for parts now. Some good parts here I’m not going to use.
That clutch cover is amazing. Full wrap looks good too. Not all chewed up. You need a top end? I have a 3200 parts saw with a good P & C. I robbed a few parts off it for myself but overall would probably have anything you would need for that saw.
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