Pioneer chainsaws

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A washer makes sense to me. If the hole in the takeup spool is much larger than the starter rope it could be very difficult to keep the starter rope from pulling through.
I'd try to find a flat washer with a hole as close as possible to the diameter of the starter rope. I think it is possible to make the starter cord knot larger by putting 2 or 3 twists in the knot. If an enlarged knot wants to bind that isn't possible and something with a smaller hole is the only option I can visualize.
Visualize a production line. A small hole in the takeup spool could be very difficult to thread. A larger hole and a starter rope with a washer on the rope threaded from the exterior of the takeup spool would be quick and easy. The last part of the assembly would be threading the starter rope through the pull handle and adding a knot at the pull handle.
Edited:
And finally properly tensioning the pull rope.
 
Hey fellas I have a pioneer p39 and the rope keeps pulling out of the recoil. Just curious on what #3 is on this diagram. I think maybe it’s a thing to help lock the rope? Any advice thanks jp

http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Pioneer P38.pdf
Those are very nice saws. Hard to find coils. I have a nearly new saw with no spark and it's apart. Unfortunately I can't take a picture because I'm home with a broken foot. Remind me in a month when I can get into the shop.
 
Those are very nice saws. Hard to find coils. I have a nearly new saw with no spark and it's apart. Unfortunately I can't take a picture because I'm home with a broken foot. Remind me in a month when I can get into the shop.
Can you do the husky coil swap on those? Mine has a black coil. Did they use those blue ones on those? I have had good luck baking the blue ones to get them to come around. Take it easy and heal up well
 
I very recently watched 3 or 4 videos on replacing pull ropes. Every one of them pretensions the cord before attaching the pull handle.
WHY?
Please note the rounded grove on the edge of the take-up spool. If you completely install the cord (both ends no tension); then put the cord in that notch; turn the spool opposite the direction it should turn when pulled, it tensions the return spring and you don't have to fight the spring when installing the cord. If you accidentally over or under-tension the spring that handy notch makes it a simple fix without untying any knots.
Lou
I've never needed to replace a pull cord. I have tightened umpteen droopy pull ropes.
 
Thanks to pioneerguy600 for steering me to this thread. I have a Poulan Pro 655BP and would love to replace the gas cap with anything that would fit. I've been filing it down to get it to fit better but would really like to have a replacement just in case the original becomes unusable. So frustrating that it decided to swell up.

I'd really appreciate if anyone could let me know if you'd be willing to part with one, or if you've seen an Ebay link or other source for a cap. Thank you in advance....Jay
 
Do you have a small airport near?
I buy 100LL (Low Lead) Avgas at my nearest airport. Today It sells for about $6 a gallon ($6.12 at the time of this posting). It beats the small mixed Avgas containers sold at home centers by a ton!!!
My old Scottish heart likes it when I do that!
I have a 5-gallon gas can where I mix 3 gallons of Avgas with 3 containers of 50:1 - 2-cycle oil. I pour any unused fuel into that can. I don't/won't store gasoline in my saws.
I do give my 5-gallon container a good shake before filling a chainsaw tank. That is probably not necessary but it doesn't cost anything to be sure!
Lou
 
Do you have a small airport near?
I buy 100LL (Low Lead) Avgas at my nearest airport. Today It sells for about $6 a gallon ($6.12 today). It beats the small mixed Avgas containers sold at home centers by a ton!!!
My old Scottish heart likes it when I do that!
I have a 5-gallon gas can where I mix 3 gallons of Avgas with 3 containers of 50:1 - 2-cycle oil. I pour any unused fuel into that can. I don't/won't store gasoline in my saws.
I do give my 5-gallon container a good shake before filling a chainsaw tank. That is probably not necessary but it doesn't cost anything to be sure!
Lou
Add a shot of Seafoam to your mix
 
Can you do the husky coil swap on those? Mine has a black coil. Did they use those blue ones on those? I have had good luck baking the blue ones to get them to come around. Take it easy and heal up well
Maybe the Husky swap out. Yes it's the blue coil. I just haven't had the time to deal with it, What I do is wait for one to come my way with a dead piston. I buy saws in lots sometimes 2-300 at a time and go through them. I don't build for walk in clients so there is no rush and I usually wait till I have 10 of the same model.
 
Maybe the Husky swap out. Yes it's the blue coil. I just haven't had the time to deal with it, What I do is wait for one to come my way with a dead piston. I buy saws in lots sometimes 2-300 at a time and go through them. I don't build for walk in clients so there is no rush and I usually wait till I have 10 of the same model.
You have any pioneer gear drives?
 
I dont think so but they all get piled up and sorted by brands here so every once in a while I find a gems I didn't know I had. Last time I bought saws it was an Econoline filled at least 4 times. But I buy marinas out too so it's not that organized here due to the volume.
 
I dont think so but they all get piled up and sorted by brands here so every once in a while I find a gems I didn't know I had. Last time I bought saws it was an Econoline filled at least 4 times. But I buy marinas out too so it's not that organized here due to the volume.
I would be interested in any gear drive I have yet to find one for my collection
 
Pioneer Experts Help! I just brought a P60 back to life with a full rebuild. The saw runs good but has what I think is a bit of a bad vibration noticeable at idle but gets better at high speed. When I took the saw apart one of the bearings was bad and the flywheel had some damage like it was hitting the coil probably from the bad bearing. In retrospect I should have checked the crank to make sure it was not bent but everything except the flywheel looked good and the bearing was not destroyed just a bit of movement in it. I know this is a tough question but would that bad bearing have been enough to bend the crank? I guess finding another flywheel is my starting point as I really want to complete this saw. Any advice or opinions are appreciated. Anyone help me out with a flywheel? IPL shows 474645 all P60 P61 and P51 any other saws with this flywheel or is there an update? Thanks for your help.
 
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