Pioneer chainsaws

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Freebie p51 picked out of the scrapyard, dated 1980, one of the first saws I ran back in the 80s, I did a little cleaning, fresh gas etc, bar is junk, lower handle mount is broken but I believe I can repair it but saw runs strong, I’ve put about an hour on it so far bucking some pine for my mill, I don’t remember it being so heavy back in the 80s but I like it.

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Pioneer 1130 primer: I know it's a big ask but would anyone have a parts breakdown for subject primer? the one I have looks to be in really good condition but will not draw fuel. Any help would be appreciated. TIA.
 
The primer pumps are not overly difficult to figure out, its the parts that are difficult to find. The pump diaphragm and a small disc that acts as the check valve sort of become black goo after all this time sitting with fuel inside them. I have rebuilt many dozens of them over the years. The main parts for the primer run from #40 up to #46 on the parts diagram posted above.
 
Time for me to climb on my soapbox.
Please remember to preface any Pioneer part number with 507 (507 added when Husqvarna purchased Pioneer).
It seems to work infinitely better when that is done.
Good luck.
Lou
@ Jerry; What are the odds those parts can be carefully cleaned and reused?
My Farmsaw has only very rarely sat with fuel in the tank. But I don't believe it has a primer. I more than once I have removed the air cleaner and added a splash in her throat.
 
Time for me to climb on my soapbox.
Please remember to preface any Pioneer part number with 507 (507 added when Husqvarna purchased Pioneer).
It seems to work infinitely better when that is done.
Good luck.
Lou
@ Jerry; What are the odds those parts can be carefully cleaned and reused?
My Farmsaw has only very rarely sat with fuel in the tank. But I don't believe it has a primer. I more than once I have removed the air cleaner and added a splash in her throat.

I personally have never seen a primer assembly that didn't have a melted inlet check valve and a stuck outlet valve and usually a melted diaphragm. The inlet check valve can be repaired with a carb diaphragm punching, then outlet with a new oring on the needle. The diaphragm is the tricky part. I have made a square one out of diaphragm material, cut it the size of the entire pump body. Trick is finding the proper material, maybe out of an old school mechanical fuel pump.
 
Time for me to climb on my soapbox.
Please remember to preface any Pioneer part number with 507 (507 added when Husqvarna purchased Pioneer).
It seems to work infinitely better when that is done.
Good luck.
Lou
@ Jerry; What are the odds those parts can be carefully cleaned and reused?
My Farmsaw has only very rarely sat with fuel in the tank. But I don't believe it has a primer. I more than once I have removed the air cleaner and added a splash in her throat.
The diaphragms were made from a rubber like material, they melt into a slimey gooey mess from the newer gasoline additives, some claim the E10 is the most destructive. One needs new parts to rebuild them but like cbfarmal says, the check valves can be punched out of carb diaphragm material. The diaphragm on the other hand is much more difficult to make as it needs to flex or move much further when pushed by the operating plunger. For my own rebuilds I have used OEM parts.
 
Mikuni sled or ATV carb diaphragm material comes to mind if it needs to be a little thicker and rubberized.
The material would need to be quite stretchy to allow for enough movement to actually pump fuel. It is easier to use the bulb like primer units like the cheap Poulans use or the carb can be swapped out for a regular choke type carb.
 
I never really had any success rebuilding those Primers, attempted a number of times then decided use the McGiver Method , Poulan Bulb is much easier and less time consuming.
lf l can get my hands on some ATV or Mikuni material l will have to try it and see if it works as mentiond here.
 
I never really had any success rebuilding those Primers, attempted a number of times then decided use the McGiver Method , Poulan Bulb is much easier and less time consuming.
lf l can get my hands on some ATV or Mikuni material l will have to try it and see if it works as mentiond here.
I will add that I have not had any luck finding any material with enough stretch that will work as a replacement for the diaphragm , if you look at an OEM one they are not a flat piece of material, they have a built in ribbed dish that allows for expansion and contraction that provides the pumping action that draws the fuel up from the tank, with the correct parts I have had no problem rebuilding them, very simple construction but the diaphragm is the difficult to replicate part unless one has OEM ones in the spares collection. The last time I found any of the 426 815 diaphragms they were a mis numbered lot, I recognized them from a poor pic the seller had put up with the add.
 
interesting , Thats what l thought to. Last year l attempted to rebuild a primer that was not working. l had some nos Diaphrams , gaskets and inlet check valves here to use , l mean how difficult could it be to get the primer to work. l must of tried everything l could think of and still the primer would not pull fuel from tank.
My fuel p/u and lines were new , no blockage anywhere. My Patience was wearing Thin at that point.
Still not resolved and shelfed the saw until another time. :chop:
 
interesting , Thats what l thought to. Last year l attempted to rebuild a primer that was not working. l had some nos Diaphrams , gaskets and inlet check valves here to use , l mean how difficult could it be to get the primer to work. l must of tried everything l could think of and still the primer would not pull fuel from tank.
My fuel p/u and lines were new , no blockage anywhere. My Patience was wearing Thin at that point.
Still not resolved and shelfed the saw until another time. :chop:
I will buy any leftover bits you want to part with and rebuild the primer for you if you ever want to go that direction.
 
I will add that I have not had any luck finding any material with enough stretch that will work as a replacement for the diaphragm , if you look at an OEM one they are not a flat piece of material, they have a built in ribbed dish that allows for expansion and contraction that provides the pumping action that draws the fuel up from the tank, with the correct parts I have had no problem rebuilding them, very simple construction but the diaphragm is the difficult to replicate part unless one has OEM ones in the spares collection. The last time I found any of the 426 815 diaphragms they were a mis numbered lot, I recognized them from a poor pic the seller had put up with the add.

I do have my doubts about the diaphragm I made for the primer. It's apparent the button doesn't travel as far as it should but it does work. Time will tell on the durability.
 
Pioneer 1130 primer: I know it's a big ask but would anyone have a parts breakdown for subject primer? the one I have looks to be in really good condition but will not draw fuel. Any help would be appreciated. TIA.



IMG_1097.JPG
First of all I want to thank all who responded to my request.Very interesting discussions.CBFARMALL:assuming the attached photo is the same primer you were referencing could you enlighten me on the position of the inlet/outlet check valves.as you can see the diaphragm is in good shape which is a plus ,so if its a matter of a couple of "O"rings i would like to repair it if possible.as a last resort I'll order a Poulan primer bulb.
 
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