Piston stop made dent in piston

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yellowsocks93

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Hey Guys,

Been lurking on the boards here for a while now. I just got a Husqvarna piston stop to change out the sprocket on my 55. It was fully screwed in as it should but seemed to have left a small ding on the top of my piston. Is this something that might cause problems or is it normal by using a metal piston stop?

Thanks,

Nick
 
Welcome to AS. I don't know of anyone posting here who would recommend a metal piston stop. Most use either a piece of rope fed into the cylinder through the spark plug hole or through the exhaust port. There is a plastic stop made which would be easier on the top of the piston verses the metal one. An impact wrench can also be used to remove the clutch when combined with a clutch removal tool, though some have broken components when doing so.
 
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a foot of recoil rope is alot safer...I dont like piston stops..the whole idea of exerting pressure on 1 square centimeter of the piston crown makes me jittery.
 
Would I best be off to get a new piston and throw it in there while I'm at it? I guess I'll be using the rope trick next time. I thought I'd try what Husky recommends in their service manual!
 
If you didn't break or crack the piston, it'll be fine. Just run it and fill that dent with carbon.

Oh, and don't listen to Urbicide- he just twists the clutch off with his meaty paws.
 
It's probably fine, I wouldnt worry about.

Ive pulled apart a number of saws, trimmers, etc with big gashes in the piston from stops, people hitting the piston after a stick, never a problem.

If it didnt crack it, or make a deep deep impression where you feel the aluminum has stretched all the way to the inner surface...Id go with it.
 
How do you properly feed a rope through the spark plug hole or exhaust to make an effective stop?

With a hammer...

:)

Pull the spark plug, drop the end of the recoil line into the hole and slighly twist while letting the line fall into the hole.

Move the piston to TDC and you are good to go.

One last thing, don't feed the entire line into the hole. Leave a few inches hanging out for retrival. I had a customer forget that little step awhile back...then tried to start the saw with the line still inside.
 
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when i do it i always take the muffler off to make sure piston is in rite position get the piston on the rite stroke and make sure it's above the transfer ports. feed in and twist around the entire cylinder till full then remove clutch. take rope out and when putting clutch back on get on rite stroke to tighten bolt and repeat process.
 
I've always thought about doing that. Are you serious, and if so, ever have any problems using the impact?

Only once, I sent a 2100 clutch to the promised land because I didn't let off the trigger quick enough. The bad part was that it was in Redprospectors living room, oops.
 
Don't use it on the little saws.... and know the power of your impact. If it's adjustable, turn it down..


I've seen many broken cranks and stipped flywheels... Even had a couple myself :bang: Nothing like taking the clutch off to fix the oiler, and then can't get the damn saw started 'cos the fw has spun.
 
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Don't use it on the little saws.... and know the power of your impact. If it's adjustable, turn it down..


I've seen many broken cranks and stipped flywheels... Even had a couple myself :bang: Nothing like taking the clutch off to fix the oiler, and then can't get the damn saw started 'cos the fw has spun.

Whats a "little saw"???????????
 

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