Piston Stop??

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Use rope and you'll likely bend the rod.


You might bend the rod, but if it was likely I would have bent one by now.

If you do it right the piston is only an 1/8 of an inch or so from TDC as the cord flattens quite a bit. The stress on the rod is going to be there with whatever you use to stop it. If you are trying to stop it way down in the cylinder then you will have problems with cord stuck in the port, bent rod, whatever.


You can always pull the jug and stick a piece of wood under the leading edge of the counter balance.:smile2:
 
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Just for those who may not know a metal piston stop is NEVER to be used in a angled spark plug hole. Doing so will result in many busted pistons. The metal stop in fine in cylinder where the plug hole is centered and flat at the top of the cylinder..

Was hoping you might come out for this one!!!
 
Was hoping you might come out for this one!!!

Ya did, how come,:biggrin: Fact is I know that little 180 piston will withstand well over 80lbs of torque and the rod will too. I had that torque wrench of mine cranked to the hilt and went well on past the click at 80lbs. Neither rod nor piston gave in unitll I was raising the bench off the floor. Tant no biggie Fish, whats the ole saying, lessons learned from mistakes are never forgotten..
 
I am a true amateur so I am probably wrong, but I use a small hardwood dowel and angle it across the plug hole. It usually looks like the Stihl tool when I am done. When it gets too damaged to use, I just cut it off and start with a fresh end. Ron
 
Ya did, how come,:biggrin: Fact is I know that little 180 piston will withstand well over 80lbs of torque and the rod will too. I had that torque wrench of mine cranked to the hilt and went well on past the click at 80lbs. Neither rod nor piston gave in unitll I was raising the bench off the floor. Tant no biggie Fish, whats the ole saying, lessons learned from mistakes are never forgotten..

More like 280 lbs. of pork.......
 
I broke a 066 clutch one time removing it with a impact gun. I never broke anything using the rope method. If im going to tear the saw down I stuff a rag between the crank and the case. I removed up to a 394 clutch that way and it was extremly tight. I use a long handled 1/2 ratchet for this.
 
make sure all the ports are closed - piston is in compression, or otherwise be careful not to get rope into a port window. There's a chance you could shear off rope bits, or just jam the works if that happens.
 
I use an impact too. Ya dont have to set there and hold it, all it takes is a few ''bumps'', and off she comes.
 
I use a piece of 14/2 ag romex. Take a 12" piece, bend it in half, put the fold in a vice to lightly crimp, then use as a regular stop. The wire has plastic insulation so it won't scar the cylinder and the Cu is soft.
 
anyone know the PN# for the STIHL plastic piston stop?

0000 893 5903

The local dealer sells it for 60 cents, not sure how successful the seller on Ebay will be with a starting bid of $1.95 plus shipping. Also the MS200T and some of the older saws I bought had the tool included in the tool pouch. It does work very well.
 
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BTW, the big old Macs don't need a piston stop. Put a punch through the hole in the back of the flywheel cover and into the socket on the flywheel. Done.
 
0000 893 5903

My local dealer sells it for 60 cents, not sure how successful the seller on Ebay will be with a starting bid of $1.95 plus shipping. Also the MS200T and some of the older saws I bought had the tool included in the tool pouch. It does work very well.

Are you the owner of Becker Small Engine Repair? I called the Manassas Stihl dealer on Balls Ford Rd (not F&J) and asked about getting a piston stop. Front desk put me through to one of the guys in the shop who said they didn't sell piston stops and didn't know where I could get one.

Used a piece of rope, inserted carefully on the upstroke. Worked just fine. Saw was an 021 though and perhaps the clutch nut wasn't locked down as hard as one on a big saw.
 
Are you the owner of Becker Small Engine Repair? I called the Manassas Stihl dealer on Balls Ford Rd (not F&J) and asked about getting a piston stop. Front desk put me through to one of the guys in the shop who said they didn't sell piston stops and didn't know where I could get one.

Used a piece of rope, inserted carefully on the upstroke. Worked just fine. Saw was an 021 though and perhaps the clutch nut wasn't locked down as hard as one on a big saw.

No I'm not the owner of that shop. I do get a lot of calls for them. I've experienced that some Stihl shops are reluctant to sell Stihl factory tools. Not sure what the official policy is, maybe someone who is a dealer and participates on this forum can offer input. Again as I mentioned earlier the piston stop is included in the tool kit that came with my MS200T and some older 046 saws.
 
BTW, the big old Macs don't need a piston stop. Put a punch through the hole in the back of the flywheel cover and into the socket on the flywheel. Done.

yaaay!! like it's an unheard of maintenance issue that they can't bother to design something similar on Husky/Stihl pro saws even. "here, jam this down the spark plug port ". All of my circular saws have a pin that locks into the shaft for blade removal, simple stuff and the same principle.
 
Strap wrench?

Anyone tried one of those rubbery strap wrenches wrapped around the flywheel?

Is it possible to even get it around it?

Also maybe one of those cloth strap oil filter wrenches?

*thinking out loud...*
 

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