Planted apple trees. Concerned...

[whitenack]

Hey guys,

I bought a couple 1/2" apple trees from a reputable national fruit nursery and planted them last night. They were bare root, and I followed their instructions on how to plant to a 'T' (they provided a very nice, 40-page booklet).

My concern is that several of the instructions flew in the face of what I have heard about how to plant trees and I was wondering if the directions were different because they were fruit trees, or that they were bare root.

The instructions said to bury the root system at the level it was burried at the nursery. From what I could see, that was 5-6 inches above the root flare. After they were planted, they just look like sticks in the ground because there is no flare.

Also, the instructions said to get the most fertile soil and put it in first, around the roots, then add the less fertile soil on top of that. I am concerned that the roots will not stretch out into the less fertile soil now.

Are fruit trees different? Did I bury them too deep?

It's too late now anyway, but I thought I would raise this topic for discussion.

Thanks, as always.

 

[Elmore]

Did I bury them too deep?

Sounds like it to me. Are fruit trees different? I don't think so. Maybe they gave you the instructions for rose bushes. I would replant. I would plant in a container but depending on your situation I might at least raise the root crown closer to the soil surface.

 

[whitenack]

Another thing I noticed was on one of the trees, there were two levels of roots.

There was the typical root ball down at the bottom, then an inch or two above that was a ring of small roots. An inch or too above that was the soil mark.

No, they were instructions for apple trees. This nursery does not sell roses and it continually refered to fruit tree planting.

Would the fact that these were grafted trees make any difference? The grafting joint is well above the soil line. Is that enough?

 

[pbtree]

I have observed in bareroot trees, at times, they are packaged and the "soil line" becomes obscured by the filler used in the bareroot packaging.

I have planted bareroot fruit trees in the past (Including apples) and I have always stuck to putting them close to the root flare. No ill results thusfar!

Not sure if that helps. The grafting should not be the issue, as they are grafted above the soilline anyway...

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Originally posted by whitenack
Another thing I noticed was on one of the trees, there were two levels of roots.

There was the typical root ball down at the bottom, then an inch or two above that was a ring of small roots.

These are adventitious roots, formed in response to the burying. If they are really small in comparison, and the original roots are sufficient to support the tree, I would follow Elmore's advice an replant the trees, flare to grade.

The nursery must be betting on the development of adventitious roots to take the place of the originals. this seems like a needless risk and a waste of the tree's enrgy.

Don't be surprised that the directions are wrong; that's the way I learned it in Pomology in college too. Many natl tree orgs have been slow to transition from "root ball" to "trunk flare" as the guide for planting height, only doing so when these links

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/buying_highquality.asp

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/tree_planting.asp

are made clear to them.

All that said, if the original root mass is sparse, then by burying it you'll have more room on the tree for new roots to grow. That's the only condition uhder which I'd bury a tree.

 

[M.D. Vaden]

I think Guy is right (others too).

My trees came with the extra root growth above the main system. The trees always look like they were too deep so I raise them and stake until about July.

My choice is a single variety to a tree. I train a tall central leader, making the tree into a very narrow pyramid - about 3' wide at the bottom, slowly tapering the width up the tree. Beats espallier for me.

I'm trying liberty, red gravenstien, honey crisp.