Plastic Restoration - Rattle Can Clear Coat Durability?

[SteveSr]

Hello,

The title pretty much says it. I have seen several threads where folks mention using rattle-can clear coats but the question was always whether or not these clear coats would stand up to the typical chain saw fuel and bar oil. I never did see an answer to this even though the question was asked several times. I know that the professional 2 part systems will but I don't have access to that equipment and supplies cost is prohibitive for small jobs like these.

If you have found some of the rattle-can clear coats that hold up what brand were they and where did you buy them?

 

[Macman125]

Rattle can paint doesn't hold up in harsh conditions such as on a chainsaw. Your best bet would be to try and buff them with a really fine compound or go with new ones.

 

[SteveSr]

Rattle can paint doesn't hold up in harsh conditions such as on a chainsaw.

That is my speculation at this point. However, I think that Brad was using this at one time but didn't mention / didn't know how it actually held up in field conditions. This is why I am looking for a few real-world data points.

Your best bet would be to try and buff them with a really fine compound or go with new ones.

Got any recommendations on what compound and where to buy it? Most of the plastic compound I have seen is for "Clear" plastics like Lexan. Saw plastics are all fiberglass filled nylon which is a very different animal.

 

[Macman125]

I really don't have any experience buffing chainsaw plastics. I do however have experience with spray paint and can tell you that it unfortunately will not hold up. Good luck with them!

 

[Chris-PA]

I've tried it. It helps a bit but it's a very soft coating. Then again, it's a chainsaw.

 

[Rockjock]

If you go to an autobody supply house they can get you the correct clear coat and it will stand up just fine. Since it is plastic ask for one with flex agent in it. BUT be sure to them them it is for plastic, they will be sure to thin it with a solvent like MEK that adheres to plastic far better. Clean the part really well and get the part quite warm, we used to get the parts upto 30C and then apply the clear coat to the part, then let it dry really well and heat it up again so it can out gas. I have done this in the summer and just left the part out in the sun, works treat.

 

[SteveSr]

If you go to an autobody supply house they can get you the correct clear coat and it will stand up just fine. Since it is plastic ask for one with flex agent in it. BUT be sure to them them it is for plastic, they will be sure to thin it with a solvent like MEK that adheres to plastic far better. Clean the part really well and get the part quite warm, we used to get the parts upto 30C and then apply the clear coat to the part, then let it dry really well and heat it up again so it can out gas. I have done this in the summer and just left the part out in the sun, works treat.

Thanks for the info. This stuff sounds like the professional 2-part clear coat which works but requires tools and equipment that, unfortunately, I don't have access to.

 

[Rockjock]

Thanks for the info. This stuff sounds like the professional 2-part clear coat which works but requires tools and equipment that, unfortunately, I don't have access to.

No it does not. They can put it in a rattle can for you, also they can match the color of the saw 100% It is all in the prep..

 

[alexcagle]

I don't know what brand of saw you are working on, but this new "Dual" paint from krylon is really good stuff for Stihl. I've cleaned plastics up with lacquer thinner first to get the oil off them first. Holds up very well, doesn't flake off or chip, flexes great, is not brittle, dries within an hour. If you gouge it accidently.....Well guess what? It's orange underneath. I've painted some saws that were really faded out ugly by the sun. They still look excellent a year later, and that's construction equipment too! The TS350 plastic filter cover baffle is new, and not painted. I put it in the pic to show how well it matches. I've used the Stihl brand paints before, and they don't cover well in two or even three coats, and by the time you put enough coats to cover, it gets gooey and doesn't dry worth a s**t ! The Krylon covers really well in two or three thin coats, and needs no primer on bare metal.

 

[SteveSr]

After talking with Application people at Krylon, Rustoleum their products are pretty much enamels which are not fuel and oil resistant. Rustoleum says that some of their engine enamels #248944 are fuel resistant but have not been tested on plastic substrates and advise user testing. So now I am back to @Rockjock 's suggestions.

In a metro area of almost a million population there are only 2 automotive paint supply houses. There used to be a LOT more. Neither has the ability to put paint in a "rattle can". All they have and can recommend is the Preval sprayer which is also available at Lowes and Home Depot.

As far as product goes we have two-part Transtar 6844 Acrylic Urethane with 6877 activator. This product will definitely stand up to gas and oil. It is unknown how it will adhere to nylon plastic or if it has enough flexibility not to crack with plastic expansion contraction, and flex. @Rockjock have you ever used either of these products?

 

[alexcagle]

After talking with Application people at Krylon, Rustoleum their products are pretty much enamels which are not fuel and oil resistant.
~

 

[alexcagle]

....Yeah I'm not planning on pouring gas and oil ON my saw so I think I'm ok.

 

[Four Paws]

@295Tramp did a nice write-up on buffing out mangey looking plastics. Search for it.

 

[buzz sawyer]

I've been putting a coat of clear polyurethane as the final coat on restos but also did a Husky 268 and it holds up fine to gas and oil.

 

[alexcagle]

@295Tramp did a nice write-up on buffing out mangey looking plastics. Search for it.

Found it. Excellent. Thx!

 

[Landmark]

I have tried the rattle can clear on husky top cover and didnt like it all. If i try any kind of plastic restoration again it will be the dye method that has been in some threads lately. Good luck

 

[295 tramp]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/plastic-restoration.265470/

 

[alexcagle]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/plastic-restoration.265470/

That's a great post.

 

[295 tramp]

I'm still working on a method on cleaning oil stained plastic.
I left the post open that someday all the failed experiments
Will one day find a solution to restoring those parts.