Hahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
OK, i hope you guys get a kick out of this, I sure did. This is the add copy from an auction on eBay for a Husky 562XP. Unfrikkenbelievable!!
THESE ARE WORK SAWS! I GET THAT QUESTION A FEW TIMES A DAY. 99% OF THE SAWS I DO ARE WORK SAWS. THESE ARE MORE RELIABLE AND WILL LAST MANY TIMES LONGER THAN A STOCK SAW. I DONT KNOW WHY PEOPLE KEEP THINKING THESE ARE NOT GOING TO LAST. ONE PERCENT OF MY SAWS ARE FOR COMPETITION USE AND RUN NITRO METHANE, THESE RUN PREMIUM GASOLINE
I JUST GOT THIS SAW IN AND ITS SOLD AS WELL. I WILL HAVE ANOTHER ONE ON THESE INSTOCK WITHIN A WEEK. I SOLD MY FIRST ONE LAST MONTH TO A LOGGER IN CANADA. I WILL HAVE THIS ONE DONE IN 12 DAYS OR SO AFTER I GET IT. IF YOU WANT IT BEFORE I GET IT COMPLETED I WILL STILL HAVE TIME TO BUILD TO YOUR SPECIFICATIONS. PLEASE SEE MY OTHER AUCTIONS ON 346XP'S SO YOU CAN GET AN IDEA OF WHAT THIS SAW WILL LOOK LIKE AND WHAT MODIFICATIONS WILL BE DONE TO IT. THESE ARE RARE BUT I WILL HAVE ANOTHER ONE INSTOCK!!
I started porting 2 stroke Motorcross bikes about 30 years ago for a well known racing company. I was head of R&D for them for 12 years. I have continued doing engine work since then including giant scale RC aircraft engines. They are basically chainsaw engines, including inline twin and upposed 2 and 4 cylinder models, all are 2 stroke. Since Motorcross has changed over to 4 stroke engines, I do not do much for the sport now. I have been building saw engines for the last 10 years or so.
I do Husqvarna XP saws, as well as Stil pro and Dolmar Pro saws. I have done a few Echo saws and they work well modified. This saw has ceramic hybrid main bearings and a highly modified engine, with upgrades to the chassis. The crank is split and weight removed from both halves then balanced better than then come from the factory. This saw produces slightly over 5.8hp, up from the 4.7 stock rating. The intake is enlarged by 30% as well as the entire intake system port matched, from the airfilter to the cylinder. I can at your request block the saw from drawing hot air from inside the saw and only allow it to pull cool air from outside the saw. I remove the stock mixing screen in the rubber manifold because the manifold is enlarged as well as the entire intake tract is roughened to serve the brass screen's purpose. The limiters on the high and low speed jets are removed and the jets replaced one size larger. My saw's will have ZERO air leaks. The intake runners are enlarged by about 35%. I groove the transfer ports to give the charge a spiral motion and aim the charge at the intake side as to force out as much of the spent exhaust as possible. In other words I want to flow the fresh fuel/air mixture at the front of the cylinder wall to lift the exhaust gas out as completely as possible so that the only gas being pulled back in the exhaust port is fresh air/fuel, not burnt exhaust gasses. I mill around 1mm from the base of the cylinder and use a super thin base gasket to raise compression. The dome of the cylinder is polished to a mirror finish. I use SureFire V3 spark plugs. The piston is polished on the entire outer surface and the dome. Both intake and exhaust flanges are decked perfectly flat to ensure sealing. The exhaust port is enlarged by almost 45% and also polished to a mirror finish. The exhaust is port matched all the way into the hand built expansion chanber, I use 2 exhaust gaskets to insure sealing, the aluminum heat shield that seals against the exhaust port on a factory saw, gets a gasket on my saws. They are sprayed with Permatex copper sealant. Yes my saws actually have a functioning expansion chanber, instead of just adding a hole in the muffler and calling it a ported muffler. I use a 2000 degree ceramic high heat paint that will not burn off, so your muffler will not rust. I have applied for patent protection for my exhaust mufflers/ expansion chambers. I use a heat protection film under the top cover to keep the heat from the muffler from damaging the plastic top cover and keep it looking good. 3m clear film is used on all decals to keep the saw looking new.
These saws run on Royal Purple TCWIII synthetic oil at 100:1. When I do a full Ceramic bearing and ring version, including Ceramic needle bearings on both rod ends, these saws run on 150 to 200:1. Ceramic bearings are thousands of times rounder than metal bearings and therefore generate very little drag and produce almost no heat. You can put a full ceramic bearing on a dremel tool and spin it at 30,000 rpm and it never gets hot enough that you can't hold it. Do the same with a high quality steel bearing, like that come in these saws, and you have to let go after 5 seconds because it gets so hot. The saw comes with the Sugihara 18" OR 30", OR 32" bar and chain. I have 20" but they are hard nose bars.These bars are almost impossible to find anymore, but they are the finest bar ever produced. They have replaceable nose sprockets. I use a custom handle wrap that takes over 80% of the vibration out of the handle as well as making it about 30% larger. Your hand will not slip on this handle even when its raining!!
This will be the last saw you will ever buy, as long as you use the Royal Purple oil I spec and the correct ratio, and take care of your air filter. I offer 3 different Factory Husqvarna air filter choices. I have over 1000 hours on my 346 on the same ring, and its still got around a 160 some compression reading, (remember the milled cylinder base). This will be the fastest revving, hardest cutting 562 you can get your hands on, outside a full blown competition saw having a large motorcycle type expansion camber on it! My saw's come broken in with over 2 gallons of fuel through it. It has never cut wood and when you receive my saws you cant tell they were ever run. I break the engines in on a test stand not on the complete saw chassis. Believe me when I say they are ready to work when you get your saw, the engine does not want to be babied! Any question, please ask.
Have a Merry Christmas and a Great New Year!
