Porting a 066BB

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would there be any benifit to drill the spotwelds off that box in middle and get rid of all together ? i did on my 036 it had that same box on aftermarket muffler helped a lot ,and does widening the ports that far sacrifice bottom end tourque pull ? seems the wider ports be more for top end ? i may be wrong trying learn a little myself here

You could do that. I just don't feel it's worth it? I believe I'm getting all the flow I need like this.
 
I just picked up a 066 thats gonna need atleast a piston so i figured i would just go ahead and get the BB kit for it. Thanks for the pics and comments about the quality of the product and sharing about the port work you did. After seeing how little you could take off, i probably wont mess with trying to port mine and risk screwing it up. You saved me some time and trouble. Thanks, great thread!

Be sure to diagnose what caused the original failure before you put the new topend to work!!!!!
 
Brad, for the love of AS, STOP POSTING CRAP LIKE THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Everyone knows that this waste of bandwidth is taking room away from important stuff like what saw should I buy? or what oil should I use? Will a muffler mod hurt my saw? etc. etc. On top of this, you're taking all the romance out of saw porting! I thought saw porting was voo doo that only a few smug individuals knew how to do or who to buy from, you're obviousley hurting this illusion so take this crap elsewhere and leave more space for sorcery!
 
Brad, for the love of AS, STOP POSTING CRAP LIKE THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Everyone knows that this waste of bandwidth is taking room away from important stuff like what saw should I buy? or what oil should I use? Will a muffler mod hurt my saw? etc. etc. On top of this, you're taking all the romance out of saw porting! I thought saw porting was voo doo that only a few smug individuals knew how to do or who to buy from, you're obviousley hurting this illusion so take this crap elsewhere and leave more space for sorcery!

No!NO!NO Dont do that, since I only understand about half of the numbers and words,I waste my time looking at the pictures! Keep it up
 
Ive been following the thread and have a few questions about the stages before porting....like checking squish and timing.

I guessing that squish needs to be checked first?? Then if the squish is quite high and the gasket can be removed, I guess take it apart and get the gasket out, then put it back together and check squish again?? Or do you just measure the gasket thickness and subtract it off the squish?? The squish needs to be right before the timing is ever checked, right?...Then check timing and pull it apart and start laying it out and start grinding?

Ive never done this, but I got the fever. Just need a little help on the planning process. Im not a dummy, But dummy terms help.lol

BTW Sweet 066. Looking foward to the wood video.
 
Ive been following the thread and have a few questions about the stages before porting....like checking squish and timing.

I guessing that squish needs to be checked first?? Then if the squish is quite high and the gasket can be removed, I guess take it apart and get the gasket out, then put it back together and check squish again?? Or do you just measure the gasket thickness and subtract it off the squish?? The squish needs to be right before the timing is ever checked, right?...Then check timing and pull it apart and start laying it out and start grinding?

Ive never done this, but I got the fever. Just need a little help on the planning process. Im not a dummy, But dummy terms help.lol

BTW Sweet 066. Looking foward to the wood video.

Check the squish before you take it apart and see where your at,,, two pieces of .031 size solder wire work fine,,, and a micrometer and you are in business,,, do a search on checking squish,,,

no less than .018 on a big saw too around .020 is good,,, There are a couple of gaskets availible for 066 the I believe the paper one is close to .100 and the metal rubberized one is .050 therabouts last time I checked one
 
What riverrat said is good. On a husky you might need .065 solder to get a reading on squish. Most here lately have been over .040" I think the 2171 was .028 gasketless and .043" with the gasket.

I think the gaskets are 1mm and .5mm for the 660.
 
Yeah I got the squish down, how about the timing. Check it before disassembly,after the squish is set, or when???

I dont want to hi jack Brads thread, just had a couple questions and it looked like a good time and place to ask.
 
not to worry Melvin, despite the fact they're on him like stink on a bum, he'll keep posting this stuff so the rest of us can learn.
I like to learn, and nobody else seems to want to post pictures up of their work.

Nobody real close to show me exactly what to do, so Ill keep reading these threads, mostly Brads cause he shares what he knows. Going to grind on one soon and post up some pictures, then everybody can come over there and bash me.
 
What riverrat said is good. On a husky you might need .065 solder to get a reading on squish. Most here lately have been over .040" I think the 2171 was .028 gasketless and .043" with the gasket.

I think the gaskets are 1mm and .5mm for the 660.

Yeah I wasnt thinking, .050 or .062 for baselining a stocker... I like the smaller stuff for tweeking my toys ive already been into if you know what I mean,,, cause it squishes easier!!!!! LOLOL!!

Nice to see you posting RiverRat2.

Thanks Brad!!!!!

RR2
 
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The combustion chamber looks smaller, if it is, squish won't have to be very tight to obtain decent compression. How did squish mesure out on this one with a gasket? I really don't know why they can't solve these minor, but very basic issues with the ports. What rings did this kit come with? Are they any good? thanks
 
I've got a brand new 066BB here that I'm porting, and thought that I'd share it with you guys. This is the first one I've seen since installing the prototype of this generation on my personal saw. These kits have a come a long ways.

Let's start with the exhaust. The biggest problem I have with this cylinder is the exhaust port roof. It's still completely flat, with no curvature to it at all. This is not good for the rings. However, it does have a HUGE bevel on it, and will likely not be a problem. I'm going to massage this one a little, just to get a little curvature to it. I can't do much at all though, becaust the exhaust port timing is very high, at 96° ATDC. I would much rather see this at 100-105. 100 would be fine it weren't flat, but 105 would give me a little play room. As far as port width is concerned, it's already nearly as wide as the skirts will allow. My outer marks are the skirt edge, and the inner lines are where I'll be taking it to. Not a deal breaker here, but the biggest place for improvement in the cylinder.

1155696057_hexRk-M.jpg



The shape of the intake isn't pretty, but isn't a concern at all. No rings travel across it. There is lots of room for improvement in port width here. Again, port timing is very agressive. It's an amazing 86° BTDC. However, that's how the one on my saw is, and it runs incredible and still idles good with good throttle response.

1155695971_NnLVi-M.jpg



I see no issues with the transfers. The furthest line is the ring end. The closest is where I'll be taking the transfer to. You can't see it in this pic, but there's a HUGE bevel on these transfer, probably clost to .040" tall. The port timing is a 125°, giving me a blowdown of nearly 30°, so I'll be raising these to 120°, basically raising them the amount of the factory bevel.

1155696122_3VnCm-M.jpg


1155696203_eH4rU-M.jpg



I won't be doing a popup on this saw, but if I were, there might be an issue here. It appears to me that the NiSi may not go to the top of the bore, by approxiamately .170". Subtract a squish of .020", and that's still .150". That will still have the rings riding onto this area .030". Hopefully this is simply unhone NiSi. I can feel no ridge whatsoever, so hopefully that's the case.

1155696295_RMC6J-M.jpg



Bottom line, these kit's make a good replacement for a stock topend. With the aggressive port timing, it should make great power, even in unmodded form. Once ported, my 066 is a monster. I've had multiiple topends on it, and this was the first one that made me say wow. Hopefully this one will run the same. I'll post more as I go along.
well he almost made it a week,probably so full himself he had to let it out. another one of your very imformative posts,and a very nice documentary as well. all i can say is,thank you brad,and thank you ohio chainsaw mafia. you guys are great,this thread is great,everything is just well,,,great!
 
You could do that. I just don't feel it's worth it? I believe I'm getting all the flow I need like this.

Much better flow to cut that out and weld in a plate and match to the cylinder. You are seeing the way Brad does it, and it's not nessesary the best way but maybe the quickess.
 
Much better flow to cut that out and weld in a plate and match to the cylinder. You are seeing the way Brad does it, and it's not nessesary the best way but maybe the quickess.
now dont you question his ways here fella! he is all about the quickest: quick saws,quick money,quick temper,quick to sell it so he can get to the next port job. i bet he's got a years worth of backlog,cause he just get to them QUICK enough.:smile-big:
 

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