Great thanks for the tip. I will try doing this. Even though I run these everyday, this is the first time I have ever tore on completely apart to do anything.
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Porting my stihl 460
- Thread starter whitmore
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Did you alter port widths or port timing at all?
Did not alter the width on the exhaust port top to bottom but made the width side to side .01 wider. I am not planning on messing with the timing.
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I realize that you have to start somewhere, but I would not expect any measurable gains. You will have to do more than that to see improvements. It's been shared in detail what it takes to make a 460 really run.
I just wasn't sure about how much material to take out? I did know that you don't want to take to much off the top bottom of the exhaust port because it will really throw your timing for a loop. I also didn't want to take to much of something that I can't replace.
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You are correct. Everything has to be measured/calculated.
When whitmore removes the gasket and reduces the squish will that alter the port timings noticeably? also what is the most you could remove from the sides of the inlet and exhaust ports, and would this give any reasonable gains. I know it has probably been discussed before but after the hack attack a lot is no longer available, not meaning to impose on your thread whitmore, the info may be useful to you too regards andy
Tree Sling'r
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You can't remove the base gasket and still have sufficient clearance.
These are the answers I am looking for too. Anybody got any Intel on measurements on the inlet and exhaust ports. Also what about the transfer ports. I have seen some that are kinda shaved down along with the sides of the piston.
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Even though its tempting to try because some guys said it would be fine as long as I checked the squish I think I will stay away from that the first time.
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Tree Sling'r
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Your looking at approximately .032-.034 stock squish. The base gasket is .017, take that away and your bottomed out.
This is off my other saw that I had a friend of a friend hop up for me. It runs like a rapped ape! I just am trying to do one of my other saws myself, learning step by step.
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So I have never messed with the timing on any of my saws, there for have no idea how to do it. So that is the one thing I am worried about having to mess with doing these mods. Lowering the transfers letting charge enter earlier would effect the timing wouldn't it?
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Some of my progress thus far. Still don't know if I should mess with the transfer ports or not? I also ended up taking the case down to the saw shop this afternoon to have them split it and put new bearings in it. A close look at it and it looked a Lil blue. So I figured what the hell, might as well do it well I have it apart.
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Not much progress but it has taken a greenhorn quite a bit to get this Lil bit accomplished.
Some of my progress thus far. Still don't know if I should mess with the transfer ports or not? I also ended up taking the case down to the saw shop this afternoon to have them split it and put new bearings in it. A close look at it and it looked a Lil blue. So I figured what the hell, might as well do it well I have it apart.
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sent from my STIHL 660 using Tapatalk
tree monkey
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http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/14/thumbnail/vaha8uby.jpg
you have a plating problem with this cylinder
you have very little to loose so don't be afraid to go nuts with it
you need a degree wheel if you don't have one
ex 160
in 155
tr 120
there is no need to open the lowers on a 460
you have a plating problem with this cylinder
you have very little to loose so don't be afraid to go nuts with it
you need a degree wheel if you don't have one
ex 160
in 155
tr 120
there is no need to open the lowers on a 460
