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Rx7man

Rx7man

Cattle Rubbing Post
Joined
Oct 9, 2014
Messages
1,652
Location
Interior BC
I invested a LOT of money into burrs.. some of the smaller ones were $12 each, but they're indispensible. I need a better drive system now though

I have a long shank 1/4 drive, 3/8th tip "tree" shaped burr that is excellent, it's a little big for transfer ports, but works very nicely on intakes and exhausts. It was essential doing the Cummins head where you gotta reach in 6"
For the next step finer, I like the ball nose 1/8th drive for contouring, usually a 1/4" is still small enough for most of the work
and for the last bit of material removal, 1/8th drive, 1/8 nose burrs, I have some tapered, oval, and straight ones, each has their own application.
Emery cloth on a split mandrel for the polishing, and for rounding the port to cylinder corners, I use about a 3/8th round stone on a 1/8th shank, does a nice job of breaking the edge without chipping the chrome
 
mdavlee

mdavlee

Tree Freak
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
18,144
Location
tn
I like the alumni hog for lots of material removal in the 1/8" size. They last a good while as long as you don't use them to go through plating for finger or bridge ports.
 
drf255

drf255

BAD CAD
Joined
Nov 3, 2014
Messages
4,114
Location
Socialists Republic of New York
I like the alumni hog for lots of material removal in the 1/8" size. They last a good while as long as you don't use them to go through plating for finger or bridge ports.
What's your tool of choice to make your initial cut through the plating for fingers and bridges?

Also, what are you using to make your split mandrels?
 
mdavlee

mdavlee

Tree Freak
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
18,144
Location
tn
What's your tool of choice to make your initial cut through the plating for fingers and bridges?

Also, what are you using to make your split mandrels?
I use dremel cutting wheels or double cut burrs.

I have a mandrel that takes the little rolls.
4c5d4ed76b72b6c77c1a921f7d5160cf.jpg
 

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