porting

[Jon1212]

LOL! It looks like Justin Moody "strikes" again...........

Wasn't it spoken in criticism of PT Barnum's astute showmanship , "there's a sucker born every minute"? I believe that may apply here.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

It probably wasn't a good carb to begin with.

One question you don't hear anyone ask is whether or not the person they are considering has test logs to test builds before sending them back. Some dealers who "hop up saws professionally" don't even have logs for testing. They just free rev tune and send it on its way.

 

[Andyshine77]

No, no, about $600 total. $400 for porting/putting the saw together and shipping. Shipping was around $60-70 each way.

It was a saw that the crank bearings locked up and had only 120 psi compression. I tore it down and cleaned it, sent all the parts plus a full rebuild kit.

It was ported and put together. I fueled it and ran it a few mins, ran fine.
Next use it flooded out, found out it didn't need choke to start. Seemed to run rich at bit.
Next use gas while running gas started leaking (from carb? and quit running (bogging).

Saw used just to cut 40ft logs into 20ft so not much use, used maybe 1/2 tank total.

Sounds like the metering needle is sticking open, no big deal, common and takes little to fix. The saw also ran fine when you first used it.

No I wouldn't pay that much to have an old saw rebuilt, the cost is prohibitive, Old saws are for hobbyists to rebuild and mess with, nothing more IMHO.

 

[blsnelling]

Here's another example of why I don't work on old saws or offer rebuilds. It's simply not worth the hassles.

It sounds to me like the only issue here is with the carb. Was the builder asked to rebuild the carb?

How did you originally communicate with the builder? He can't reply if he's not getting the message.

 

[cgraham1]

Would you be upset to spend close to $600 on having a saw ported (work plus shipping) only to have the saw crap out not even a full tank in?

By your own admission, the saw ran for almost a full tank before it 'crapped out'. Now, how many tanks do you think a 'builder' should run through a saw before he sends it back? Most likely, he set the needles close and made a few test cuts. It made it through almost a full tank for you, so it probably ran fine for those first few test cuts, as well. He probably left it a little fat because he knew that the customer is a dumbshit... and then sent it back.

As far as the tune is concerned, I've never had a saw shipped to me that was tuned exactly right, and some ported saws seem to be a little more finicky in that regard. Differences in temperature, humidity, elevation, fuel/oil ratio, octane of fuel, brand/type of two stroke oil, bar length, etc... will affect how a saw runs. It does make sense to me that the saw would need to be dialed in once it got into your hands, since that has been the case for me on several saws.

So what exactly do you want the builder to do? Pay the $150 shipping to do a rebuild on the carb? Oh, that's right... you just want to ***** about how you got ripped off...

The thread is more just me venting than anything.

This thread is just more of the same old tired ******** that is typical of Valley Firewood.

 

[Philip Wheelock]

...I wouldn't pay that much to have an old saw rebuilt, the cost is prohibitive, Old saws are for hobbyists to rebuild and mess with...

I have 4 used saws, one of which I rebuilt, and agree that it's not cost-effective to have someone else do the work. The local repair shops don't take on rebuilds because they don't make financial sense and they're too risky.

 

[Chris-PA]

I would never dream of rebuilding a box of old parts into a saw for anyone other than me.

 

[jakethesnake]

Find out where the fuel leak is? If you're handy pull the carb apart and put a kit in it if it needs it I'll stay outta this but I am curious to the resolution

 

[Jon1212]

No, no, about $600 total. $400 for porting/putting the saw together and shipping. Shipping was around $60-70 each way.

It was a saw that the crank bearings locked up and had only 120 psi compression. I tore it down and cleaned it, sent all the parts plus a full rebuild kit.

It was ported and put together. I fueled it and ran it a few mins, ran fine.
Next use it flooded out, found out it didn't need choke to start. Seemed to run rich at bit.
Next use gas while running gas started leaking (from carb? and quit running (bogging).

Saw used just to cut 40ft logs into 20ft so not much use, used maybe 1/2 tank total.

What the heck are you talking about? Explain to me how you measured the compression on a saw with "crank bearings locked up"?
I believe @cgraham1 nailed it, this thread is just more bull **** from you. Too bad you can't go back and edit the post I quoted so you won't look like your FOS....

 

[computeruser]

How is it that OP seems to have so many issues and bum transactions? It seems like some sort of gripe comes up every few months for VF. ??????

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

I feel bad for the person who worked on this saw. For all we know he is a stand up dude and did everything correct.

 

[Blisters]

I have done my own work for a few yrs now. I got a 440 husky and 2 42cc homelight saws. I would like to make some improvement on my saws. I also have 3 poulan 42cc saws that I want to use to learn the skills of porting. If I bucher them no big loss. I was hoping that blsnelling or one of the other guys I've read behind could give me some pointers.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

I have done my own work for a few yrs now. I got a 440 husky and 2 42cc homelight saws. I would like to make some improvement on my saws. I also have 3 poulan 42cc saws that I want to use to learn the skills of porting. If I bucher them no big loss. I was hoping that blsnelling or one of the other guys I've read behind could give me some pointers.

To do it properly you'll need to buy a foredom or the like. You'll need several different burr bits and at least two different types of handpieces. You'll also need a set of high quality inside and outside calipers and other measuring devises to suit your style. A set rasp files and hand files down to micro sizes. 100, 120, and 200 grit sandpaper for chamfer polishing. A well lit work desk with a true flat surface.

 

[USMC615]

If I'm doing my 6th grade, Jethro math ejukashun here...somethin' ain't jivin' VF. Or am I just way off the mark and completely missing something here...Doink!!!

 

[svk]

 

[Blisters]

To do it properly you'll need to buy a foredom or the like. You'll need several different burr bits and at least two different types of handpieces. You'll also need a set of high quality inside and outside calipers and other measuring devises to suit your style. A set rasp files and hand files down to micro sizes. 100, 120, and 200 grit sandpaper for chamfer polishing. A well lit work desk with a true flat surface.

 

[Blisters]

I got most of that. Thanks Jim anything that helps is most appreciated.

 

[sweetjetskier]

 

[super3]

It was ported and put together. I fueled it and ran it a few mins, ran fine

There it is.

 

[USMC615]

There it is.

...Doink!!!