Poulan Engine swap

[kyuss]

Hello all, first post in here.

I have (My Fathers) Poulan 2150. It is not oiling consistantly. I changed the pump and it still does not want to oil all the time.

I came across a 'Wild Thing" for free (for parts) and wondered if I could out the 2150 engine into the wild thing? If I could that may save some troubleshooting/money etc...

Thanks in advance for the help and I look forward to being a part of your forums!

Matthew

 

[67L36Driver]

Measure the bolt pattern that holds the engine in the plastic chassis and the center line height from some bottom feature to the crank. If it matchs, it will bolt in.

The same four bolts hold the crankcase together so be carefull.

I had four, a 2050, 2150, a 40cc Craftsman, and a 42cc (antivibe) Craftsman that were all the same dimensions. I swapped the 42cc Craftsman engine into a 2150 style chassis as the Craftsman was missing most all the handle/trigger stuff but the basic engine was good.

View attachment 207564

 

[67L36Driver]

Check the filler plug for proper venting and the pickup tube.

Normally a 2150 type oils like the Exxon Valdes.

 

[dynodave]

I recently built a 2150 from 2 parts saws and a new piston and cylinder (the larger and cheaper one IIRC 42cc). I was looking at the chain/bar oiling situation also.
On this model there is no engine pressure to the oil tank. There is also no mechanical piston or gear pump going to the oil tank. The cap is NOT vented.
The pick up/filter runs through a rotating metering valve that lines up and allows flow then rotates to off for 1/2 a turn then repeats. The tanks filtered vent tube (maybe air inlet) is connected to the bottom run of the bar.
The question is how does this tank get a pressure differential to make the oil move? vacuum on the outlet (top run of the bar) or is it pressured on the bottom return run which is the tank inlet? There is NO pump other than the chain drive dogs running past the holes in the bar.
Does this make the pressure differential to move the oil?

anyone know?

 

[67L36Driver]

The 'spring' on the p.t.o. end of the crank drives the oil pump, or so I thought. The pump fits into a recess and is held on with 2-3 screws.

I think there is more to that 'metering valve' than meets the eye.

I have a leftover one IIRC if you want to try it. Have lots of leftover box store Poulan stuff.

P.M. Mechanic Matt how his worked out.

 

[dynodave]

Since I had 2 saws, I demanufactured one of the "oil pumps" and found it is only a round piece of aluminum with a drilled hole across then it lines up with the holes in the plastic housing every 1/2 revolution...that's it.... no more than that... so it appears to actually be a timed metering valve only.

Which makes me wonder where does it get the pressure differential to move the oil from the tank to the bar through this metering valve? I could see if it had a cam shape to make it act like a cyclic plunger piston... but that's not it.
:msp_confused:

 

[67L36Driver]

Sears Parts Direct website link: Model # 358350462 | Parts.Sears.com

Part #42 is labeled as an 'oil pump'.

I've had four of them all the way down to the bare chassis and never found a crankcase vent w/checkvalve that would pressurize the oil tank for bar/chain oiling.

 

[scottr]

Since I had 2 saws, I demanufactured one of the "oil pumps" and found it is only a round piece of aluminum with a drilled hole across then it lines up with the holes in the plastic housing every 1/2 revolution...that's it.... no more than that... so it appears to actually be a timed metering valve only.

Which makes me wonder where does it get the pressure differential to move the oil from the tank to the bar through this metering valve? I could see if it had a cam shape to make it act like a cyclic plunger piston... but that's not it.
:msp_confused:

The round spinning shaft with the notch pushes oil up to the bar. The oil level in the tank supplies a slight pressure as probably the drive links pulling oil away from bar oil hole aids flow. Think about how fast that little shaft is spinning.

 

[dynodave]

Thanks Scott
I was thinking along those same lines.
Possibly a little vacuum from the chains drive dog going out the top of the bar past the oiling cavity that feeds to the bar...
or a slight pressure from those dogs returning on the bottom run running past the cavity where the tanks "vent" is connected thereby pressurizing the tank.
What makes me worried is I put a new bar and chain and the plastic bottom cavity behind the sheet metal spacer was slightly damaged and if it leaks, it will prevent tank pressurization, low or no oiling and trash the new bar. I don't see as much oiling as I would expect and may swap all the guts to the other body since it has no defects in the bar holding area...

 

[scottr]

Thanks Scott
I was thinking along those same lines.
Possibly a little vacuum from the chains drive dog going out the top of the bar past the oiling cavity that feeds to the bar...
or a slight pressure from those dogs returning on the bottom run running past the cavity where the tanks "vent" is connected thereby pressurizing the tank.
What makes me worried is I put a new bar and chain and the plastic bottom cavity behind the sheet metal spacer was slightly damaged and if it leaks, it will prevent tank pressurization, low or no oiling and trash the new bar. I don't see as much oiling as I would expect and may swap all the guts to the other body since it has no defects in the bar holding area...

That tube is for ventilation to let air into the oil tank to replace the oil that has been pumped out to the bar. If that tube gets pulled out of the top corner of the oil tank it can siphon oil out overnight. The little plastic oil cap keeper can grab the tube and when you open to refill the tube gets pulled out of the top corner. You can see the oil pump work if you take the bar and chain off and run the saw saw a little over idle.

 

[dynodave]

I don't know if I should feel smart or dumb that I finally figured this oil pump thing out.....and that it took this long.
The aluminum rod(rotating piston &valve) with the notch...well the piston/rod has in it a groove located by the thrust"pin"...well this groove is not a plain groove but in fact a inclined groove that causes the shaft to move up/ down or in/out what ever you like....when the rotating piston rod moves to increase the pump volume the port, facing the oil pick up, is open. Then when the rotating piston moves to decrease the oil pump volume the other port, facing the bar, is open.
I finally had the AH HA moment while working on my friends husky 55 that had the inclined groove/rotating piston/shaft but actual mechanical check valves. When I realized on the poulan that the port opening events were synchronized with the in/out movement to cause pumping of the oil.

 

[NCZ]

Good thread, hope you don't mind me resurrecting! So the BIL gave me his 2150 over the holidays to try to get it back running. One of the problems was that the oil pump gear "melted" and locked up. New pump installed and it oils all right, like a West Texas gusher!! Any ideas on how to throttle it down? I really don't see how to adjust it? Thanks guys

Now to try to adjust the f^&king carb. I am no expert but dang I can't get this one to behave, has to be air from seals or carb. If I adjust the low end out any more the screw may fall out!!

 

[67L36Driver]

Good thread, hope you don't mind me resurrecting! So the BIL gave me his 2150 over the holidays to try to get it back running. One of the problems was that the oil pump gear "melted" and locked up. New pump installed and it oils all right, like a West Texas gusher!! Any ideas on how to throttle it down? I really don't see how to adjust it? Thanks guys

Now to try to adjust the f^&king carb. I am no expert but dang I can't get this one to behave, has to be air from seals or carb. If I adjust the low end out any more the screw may fall out!!

Raise the metering lever may help.

And, use a tiny wire from your welding brush to check for debris in the idle bleed holes. Look close there will be two or three.

 

[67L36Driver]

Good thread, hope you don't mind me resurrecting! So the BIL gave me his 2150 over the holidays to try to get it back running. One of the problems was that the oil pump gear "melted" and locked up. New pump installed and it oils all right, like a West Texas gusher!! Any ideas on how to throttle it down? I really don't see how to adjust it? Thanks guys

Now to try to adjust the f^&king carb. I am no expert but dang I can't get this one to behave, has to be air from seals or carb. If I adjust the low end out any more the screw may fall out!!

Raise the metering lever may help.

And, use a tiny wire from your welding brush to check for debris in the idle bleed holes. Look close there will be two or three.

 

[rocketnorton]

Hello all, first post in here.

I have (My Fathers) Poulan 2150. It is not oiling consistantly. I changed the pump and it still does not want to oil all the time.

I came across a 'Wild Thing" for free (for parts) and wondered if I could out the 2150 engine into the wild thing? If I could that may save some troubleshooting/money etc...

Thanks in advance for the help and I look forward to being a part of your forums!

Matthew

where in canada? if yer close by, i got a 2150, and some others you can have free...

 

[NCZ]

Thanks 67, gonna put a carb kit on it and will check the idle circuits. I know the saw is crap but its kind of a challenge. The other saw in his shed was a craftsman/roper 3.7 all complete, having fun with that too but no parts out there of course

Any ideas on the Poulan over oiling?? I mean its BLEEDING

 

[NCZ]

where in canada? if yer close by, i got a 2150, and some others you can have free...

Thanks Rocket, I just resurrected an old thread due to working on my BILs Poulan crap saw

 

[scottr]

Thanks 67, gonna put a carb kit on it and will check the idle circuits. I know the saw is crap but its kind of a challenge. The other saw in his shed was a craftsman/roper 3.7 all complete, having fun with that too but no parts out there of course

Any ideas on the Poulan over oiling?? I mean its BLEEDING

I worked on one that was over oiling due to a oversized 5/16" oil slot . The Oregon A041 bar has a 1/4" oil slot that oils properly .

 

[67L36Driver]

Them plastic Poulans either oil like the Exxon Valdez or not at all.[emoji849]

Tinker with restriction at the bar mount is all one can do. [emoji848]

 

[Old2stroke]

They are good little saws when used for the light duty work they were intended for. Straight forward design and easy to work on. I upgraded one to Poulan Pro quality with a chrome plated cylinder and new piston from China for about $40.00. Originally it was 35cc and is now 42cc. These clamshell engines all use the same crankshaft and there are actually only two cylinder sizes inspite of marketing labels. Open up the muffler and you can get a surprising amount of power out of them.