Poulan Pro 295 / 4620 quick adjust / intenz elimination

[Stevek90]

Hi new here....

I have a Poulan Pro 295 with the quick adjust / intenz(as oregon calls it). Is there a way to easily convert the chain tensioner to a standard adjustment? I have kinda gotten used to it and can now keep it tight but I want to convert to a 16" bar and don't want an intenz bar, plus the oregon 16" intenz seems to run about $60.

Some background:
Got back into firewood this year after getting a wood stove for new house, oil is just too expensive

I ran a Homelite XL12 for past 10 years on and off, got it for free and have never done a damn thing to it except sharpen chain. I truly treated this saw like garbage and never had any issues. I let the saw sit for years when I was no longer doing firewood only to fire it up with no issues earlier this year. Went all out recently and bought a new air filter along with bar and chain! I also thought the saw was a Super XL with a failed automatic oiler since it says Super XL on it, apparently cover from another saw. Came to conclusion it's an XL12 after removing clutch looking for oil pump to find it never existed...

Got the Poulan Pro 295 few years ago when my father in law passed away and I was no longer doing firewood. It's a 2005 model. I thought it was a running saw at the time with something wrong with recoil and it just sat in the garage, but looked at it earlier this year and found the flywheel keyway sheared off so spent the $35 and bought a new flywheel to try it out. Before I fixed it I didn't know the difference between pro and home owner saws and thought probably this poulan was a superior saw to the old Homelite.

Ran these saws a bit this year. Grew tired of the Poulan's lack of power in the logs, I would break out the Homelite for any of the bigger stuff. Grew a bit tired of the Homelite's lack of vibration isolation, slow cutting speed, lack of automatic oiler as well as the kickback protection would be nice too. Just bought a Husqvarna 372 xp since I wanted a real saw to tear up logs. I want to now hot rod this poulan 295 as my limbing saw, it seems hardly used and runs well. it has the later sealed muffler so I have ordered the earlier two piece version to modify

Thanks for any help you can give!

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

If your 295 has a reg style cover with the 2 nuts holding it on, you can add a adjuster to it for around $5 or so and put a reg bar on it. I did it to mine and it is a 2006 model.

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

Part # for the adjuster kit is 530069611

 

[Stevek90]

Part # for the adjuster kit is 530069611

Thanks, I was just going to ask for that part number. I do have the 2 bolts that hold the bar

Have you done any modifications to your 295? Was wondering if the power can come up all that much

 

[Chris-PA]

My 2775 is also basically the same saw. I did a mild mod on the two piece muffler, tuned it and put 20BPX semi chisel on the 20" bar. It woke it up a LOT. Had it buried full bar in red oak a week or two ago and it pulled it great. I had to work the 33SL chain that came with it pretty hard to make it cut well - ground the bumpers off completely, but it's still nothing special. I believe the 20BPX has a taller cutter. Anyway, these saws are surprising, so before you change the bar just try a MM, mixture adjust and a better chain. They're quite light too.

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

Have you done any modifications to your 295? Was wondering if the power can come up all that much

Actually the bar adjuster is the only mod at the moment. I have a older style muffler I am in the process of putting on. I am waiting for a exhaust gasket as it is diff than the newer style muffler and I am waiting on the third short lower bolt that is inside the muffler, the newer style only has 2 bolts. I am going to have to tap the lower hole, I noticed it is drilled, but not threaded, unless the bolt is a self tap type of bolt. I already opened up the holes in the diffuser, just waiting for the parts to put it together. I hope they come in next week.

 

[Sprintcar]

The Poulan Pro 295/4620 ain't bad little saws. The main thing these were sold with 20 inch bars, which is asking a 46 cc saw to do allot. Muffler mods and a carb retune along with a 16 or 18 and you will be happy with the 295. Keep the XL-12 when you want your hands to go to sleep and your ears to hurt.

Those part numbers are the right ones.

 

[Stevek90]

My 2775 is also basically the same saw. I did a mild mod on the two piece muffler, tuned it and put 20BPX semi chisel on the 20" bar. It woke it up a LOT. Had it buried full bar in red oak a week or two ago and it pulled it great. I had to work the 33SL chain that came with it pretty hard to make it cut well - ground the bumpers off completely, but it's still nothing special. I believe the 20BPX has a taller cutter. Anyway, these saws are surprising, so before you change the bar just try a MM, mixture adjust and a better chain. They're quite light too.

I guess I'll start with that muffler mod once the 2 piece comes in and mixture adjustment too. I pulled the saw a apart last night to see what was the deal with the mixture adjustment screws, I thought they had covers but see they are just splined. I was able to remove the rubber grommet around them and can then turn with needle nose. I'll just leave the saw uncovered a bit when I tune it. Can you give me some idea of where the H screw should end up off of stock? This saw is like new and has no resale value so I figure have nothing to lose and have a little fun

I don't know if a chain swap at this point will help me much, I switched to some Oregon one but not sure of the part number, it bites good and throw the chips esp after I sharpened it once. I need it to rev higher if possible and have more power to just throw them chips faster

 

[Chris-PA]

Actually the bar adjuster is the only mod at the moment. I have a older style muffler I am in the process of putting on. I am waiting for a exhaust gasket as it is diff than the newer style muffler and I am waiting on the third short lower bolt that is inside the muffler, the newer style only has 2 bolts. I am going to have to tap the lower hole, I noticed it is drilled, but not threaded, unless the bolt is a self tap type of bolt. I already opened up the holes in the diffuser, just waiting for the parts to put it together. I hope they come in next week.

I ran into that when I replaced the cat on my 142e - the lower bolt boss was not tapped. On that one it was a smaller diameter bolt, I think it was a 5mm x 0.8 pitch. The Jug on the 142 is very similar to the 2775/295/4620. I ordered the factory bolt (530015902).

Also, if you put on the old two piece muffler you'll need the older style shield, but do NOT use an actual old part. The original design for the shield fatigue fails and then you melt the chain brake. If you order a replacement 530056256 the part is redesigned.

 

[Stevek90]

The Poulan Pro 295/4620 ain't bad little saws. The main thing these were sold with 20 inch bars, which is asking a 46 cc saw to do allot. Muffler mods and a carb retune along with a 16 or 18 and you will be happy with the 295. Keep the XL-12 when you want your hands to go to sleep and your ears to hurt.

Those part numbers are the right ones.

Thanks, I checked my cover and see how the parts fit in. I emailed Randy's repair last night (Randy Duncan on ebay selling all kinds of saw parts) and said I was stuck with the intenz and couldn't convert it, well I guess he missed out on that huge $7 sale! I will never get rid of the xl12, the value is too low. Maybe worth $75, I'd rather keep it even just to sit on a shelf for conversation piece for that one day if everything dies!. The xl12 never seemed that loud compared to Husqvarna's with that screaming high pitch. I was actually surprised how quiet my new 372 xp was at first, I forgot my ear muffs when I when out to cut up some logs at a site, but then as I started to get through that first tank it seemed to make more noise as it was breaking in or was just getting to me.

 

[Chris-PA]

I guess I'll start with that muffler mod once the 2 piece comes in and mixture adjustment too. I pulled the saw a apart last night to see what was the deal with the mixture adjustment screws, I thought they had covers but see they are just splined. I was able to remove the rubber grommet around them and can then turn with needle nose. I'll just leave the saw uncovered a bit when I tune it. Can you give me some idea of where the H screw should end up off of stock? This saw is like new and has no resale value so I figure have nothing to lose and have a little fun

I don't know if a chain swap at this point will help me much, I switched to some Oregon one but not sure of the part number, it bites good and throw the chips esp after I sharpened it once. I need it to rev higher if possible and have more power to just throw them chips faster

Actually, the splined adjusters are great once you get the adjuster tool (mine was like $6 - I can look up where I got it, but they are not hard to find). They stay on the adjuster screws nicely making it MUCH easier to tune. Don't bugger up the splines. I don't know where my screws ended up, but then my saw is older and I have no idea if the jetting is the same. Tune it so it just "4-strokes" when unloaded.

 

[Stevek90]

Poulan Pro 295 hp

Any idea how much hp the poulan pro 295 put out? I noticed poulan never seems to post the hp. Comparing to other saws, I figure not much over 2 hp but just a guess as it may seem like a little less since running that 20" bar which is too big for what it is

 

[Chris-PA]

running that 20" bar which is too big for what it is

I disagree with this. I suppose it depends on what you expect from your saw. The 295 is 46cc and it won't compete with some big displacement saw, but I am not into saw racing and as a tool for cutting firewood it pulls that 20" bar quite fine. It's a real saw. Wait until you finish your muffler mod and tune up before passing judgement. My saw in stock trim with that 33SL chain was a dog. I enjoy running it now, especially given how light and narrow it is. It even sounds mean.

 

[Stevek90]

I disagree with this. I suppose it depends on what you expect from your saw. The 295 is 46cc and it won't compete with some big displacement saw, but I am not into saw racing and as a tool for cutting firewood it pulls that 20" bar quite fine. It's a real saw. Wait until you finish your muffler mod and tune up before passing judgement. My saw in stock trim with that 33SL chain was a dog. I enjoy running it now, especially given how light and narrow it is. It even sounds mean.

Smaller saw, I just prefer smaller bar for more weight savings ect esp since this saw is now more reserved for limbing although many people do like the longer bar for the reach during limbing. I think Poulan tends to overbar the saws to make consumers think they are a bigger saw, to the uneducated they judge the saw by the bar. I looked up what chain I put on it, I have the same chain you have on yours "20BPX". I couldn't get that original chain to cut well, I thought maybe I was doing something wrong when sharpening it, maybe not. 20BPX chews good

 

[Sprintcar]

Go to any small engine joint that sells Husky or is a Poulan service center and request part number;

530069611

I may have one or two out in the shop somewhere, If you don't have any luck let me know, we'll hook you up.

 

[Stevek90]

Go to any small engine joint that sells Husky or is a Poulan service center and request part number;

530069611

I may have one or two out in the shop somewhere, If you don't have any luck let me know, we'll hook you up.

Thanks I ordered the adjustment kit, $4.69 shipped to my door.

 

[Stevek90]

I ran into that when I replaced the cat on my 142e - the lower bolt boss was not tapped. On that one it was a smaller diameter bolt, I think it was a 5mm x 0.8 pitch. The Jug on the 142 is very similar to the 2775/295/4620. I ordered the factory bolt (530015902).

Also, if you put on the old two piece muffler you'll need the older style shield, but do NOT use an actual old part. The original design for the shield fatigue fails and then you melt the chain brake. If you order a replacement 530056256 the part is redesigned.

The two piece muffler part number 530069707 is currently on it's way to replace the one piece

As I understand it, I should also order the bolt 530015902 and the 530056256 shield. Is there anything else I need to order to complete the conversion such as a gasket??? I'd rather not waste time to get in the muffler and find I need another thing, I am excited to hear that I can make this saw fun.

 

[Chris-PA]

The two piece muffler part number 530069707 is currently on it's way to replace the one piece

As I understand it, I should also order the bolt 530015902 and the 530056256 shield. Is there anything else I need to order to complete the conversion such as a gasket??? I'd rather not waste time to get in the muffler and find I need another thing, I am excited to hear that I can make this saw fun.

Might want to make sure the two upper bolts are the same length and that the gasket is good.

 

[nick 55]

Steve, welcome to the forum. The 295 is a great "smaller" saw and the 4620 is just a newer version. These guys have given you great info so far and I just wanted to add one little thing. If you go to the Poulan Sticky thread, and search that thread for "muffler modding", you will find a post by me that detailed my modding of a 295 muffler for my 4620. There were a couple guys that commented and gave me some critique, which I took very constructively. I would definitely advise getting a proper adjusting tool for the carb, it makes things MUCH easier.

Nick

 

[Stevek90]

Steve, welcome to the forum. The 295 is a great "smaller" saw and the 4620 is just a newer version. These guys have given you great info so far and I just wanted to add one little thing. If you go to the Poulan Sticky thread, and search that thread for "muffler modding", you will find a post by me that detailed my modding of a 295 muffler for my 4620. There were a couple guys that commented and gave me some critique, which I took very constructively. I would definitely advise getting a proper adjusting tool for the carb, it makes things MUCH easier.

Nick

thanks, I looked up that old thread. I am patiently just waiting for all the parts to come in. I even bought the carb adjustment tool.