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I would call that a gift, I cant imagine borrowing a wrench overnight, much less a tool as valuable as a saw.
Three of them are my ported 044`s, one 044/046 hybrid and three ported 026`s, just checked my loan out book. The one 044 has been out since early 2006....LOL
 
Well at least you know where they are that's good. I too keep track of the tools my son borrows pretty soon I will have to loan him my pick up so he can haul everything back to me haha
The ones that my relatives have most likely will not be coming back. Just another good reason to build more.
 
I don't loan out my saws. Very seldom will someone who knows how to properly run and care for a saw not have their own saw. For the right friends, I'll loan out myself, and bring my saws to do whatever they need doing with a saw, in exchange for lunch or dinner or what have you.

I have one of those Poulan/"Husky" 235s that I'm not willing to put any more effort into making right. If someone wants it, it's theirs for the cost of shipping. Send me a PM.
 
If it is a Poulan Pro, it will be a strato (pain in the butt) engine with AV mounts and a chrome plated cylinder. If it isn't Pro, it will have a regular non-strato engine with a non-plated cylinder and no AV mounts.

mine is a Poulan Pro, what are the things that suck about this Strato engine that you speak of?

Also interested.
 
Also interested.
Strato engines are all about reducing emissions and "maybe" using less fuel. To me, it is an unnecessary complication that has nothing to do with improving engine performance. A replacement P/C kit is usually more expensive, as is the more complex carb, and they are a little more difficult to tune to the sweet spot by ear and they seem to be finicky about holding the tune.
 
Strato engines are all about reducing emissions and "maybe" using less fuel. To me, it is an unnecessary complication that has nothing to do with improving engine performance. A replacement P/C kit is usually more expensive, as is the more complex carb, and they are a little more difficult to tune to the sweet spot by ear and they seem to be finicky about holding the tune.

Thanks!

Bought a $15 ebay carb kit with lines and filter for a 5020 bought cheap in CL. Tuned and seems to run good. Did enlarge the muffler exhaust port also. I have not cut much with it yet, just tuned it and got it running. Hopefully it will perform with use.
 
Poulans actually do Ok if you upgrade the chain.
I don't care for the toolless chain tightener Poulan Pros. They bind the chain and the bars are so thin they flex. I have a small green Wood Shark with a Archer bar and full chisel chain and it will cut some wood and has for awhile.
Nice camp saw.
 
Strato engines are all about reducing emissions and "maybe" using less fuel. To me, it is an unnecessary complication that has nothing to do with improving engine performance. A replacement P/C kit is usually more expensive, as is the more complex carb, and they are a little more difficult to tune to the sweet spot by ear and they seem to be finicky about holding the tune.

But what are main differences physically in a "Strato" engine? Carb and a restrictive muffler? Lean factory settings?

If that's it, those are easily overcome.
 
Try google search on stratified charge 2-stroke engines to get familiar with the theory. Physically there is an extra intake port that lets straight air go through passages in the piston and stuff air down the transfers on top of the upcoming fuel/air charge and these are things that can't be changed. The engine still responds to muffler mods and carb tuning like conventional ones but without experience, it can be more difficult to tune the carb to the sweet spot and this might jeopardize the longevity off the saw.
 
The engine still responds to muffler mods and carb tuning like conventional ones
Absolutely
it can be more difficult to tune the carb to the sweet spot
@Modifiedmark cracked the code on tuning on these....at WOT turn high speed screw richer (out) until it starts to bog, then mark that spot. Now turn the screw in until it bogs, then mark that spot. Back the screw out halfway between the rich and lean bog points and you are all set.

Also be sure the saw is warmed up before tuning.
 
Speaking of borrowing tools it would seem that I may have put my foot in my mouth. I got home today and saw the following e-mail from my son. He sent me some pictures and his project looks good so I will remain quiet.

"After much thinking I decided to start the project today here are the results so far. I have about two hours into it. I also had to borrow 3/4 of all tools that you own LOL thank you"

Sorry for the thread derail but after what I said on here the other day I found my sons message amusing...Now returning you to your localy scheduled programing.
 
Try google search on stratified charge 2-stroke engines to get familiar with the theory. Physically there is an extra intake port that lets straight air go through passages in the piston and stuff air down the transfers on top of the upcoming fuel/air charge and these are things that can't be changed. The engine still responds to muffler mods and carb tuning like conventional ones but without experience, it can be more difficult to tune the carb to the sweet spot and this might jeopardize the longevity off the saw.

So I never even heard of a stratified 2 stroke before now, so i watched some videos by Stihl and Echo. Honestly on paper it does not seem like a horrible idea, using fresh air to expel the exhaust and have less fuel going out the exhaust, especially without the luxury of a big fat expansion chamber pipe to pulse it back into the cylinder. I'm not sure how it all translates into more engine issues, except perhaps being more picky to tune.
 
@Modifiedmark cracked the code on tuning on these
I use a different approach to setting high speed screw. Start with the screw so far out (about 3 turns) that it smokes, blubbers, won't speed up and is obviously too rich to cut anything then screw it in 1/4 turn, make a cut and listen to see if it starts to clean out while cutting, which it won't at this point. Screw it in another 1/4 turn and repeat the cut thing. Eventually after a number of these repeats (probably 4-6) you will reach a point where the engine will run clean and crisp at higher rpm as soon as the cut is started. Stop there and you have a save setting for the longevity of the saw.
 
I wish I could get my 235 to run that long. Heats up, leans out, shuts off. I'm suspecting bearings/seals or transfer ports and just not willing to put any more $$$ or effort into a POS power head.
 
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