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Just found a nice old 6-point Mac-T. Geeze. What a bummer. That suspension can't go out far enough for a big ol' noggin like mine without smashing leatherette and aluminum into my scalp. The 4-point is definitely an improvement, style points notwithstanding. I like my old 4-point Mac-T better than my Skull Bucket, but I'm "officially" not allowed to wear it at work. Aluminum full-brim is my preference and I always wear one except on the fireline where I'm required to wear plastic; for that I have a good full-brim Bullard. Full-brim not only keeps rain off the shoulders but also sun off the face and neck and debris out of the shirt.

I fully agree with the statement that "the best PPE is the stuff that you will wear". I'd no doubt have been whanged a few times if I didn't have the option of a tin hat as I'd be looking for every possible excuse to not wear anything at all, rather than plastic.

Yeah the MacT isn't big enough for me either. I guess we just have bigger brains than some other people.
 
Without being a smart a**, the best PPE is the stuff that you will wear. Make sure you get stuff you like and feel comfortable with.

HELMETS

Helmets should meet the ANSI standard. Most are rated for a single, top impact only. Some (Type II) are rated for side impact - they essentially have a styrofoam liner inside, but are bulkier and heavier. Husqvarna and STIHL all-in-one helmet systems are lighter weight - which many people find more comfortable and are more likely to wear. MSA makes some heavier duty helmet systems, which are also heavier to wear. The face screen protects your kisser, but does not replace safety glasses.

As noted, full brim keeps more rain off in the Pacific Northwest, where it is always raining. Not a big deal in other places. Climbers wear helmets without brims to avoid snagging, and with a chin strap to keep them from falling off. Some people find metal hats colder or hotter than plastic. They also do not insulate against electricity.

If you don't like the all-in-one design you can wear a standard construction helmet ($6), along with ANSI approved safety glasses (not just sun glasses) and ear plugs.

CHAPS

Again, more protective chaps are heavier and less comfortable. If you run a smaller saw, and are mostly cutting firewood from a stack, you might be fine with a lighter pair of 'apron' chaps (cover the front and sides of your legs only). 'Wrap chaps' (wrap around the back of your calves) provide more protection when you are climbing around amongst the wood, but are heavier, hotter, and more restrictive. More layers are more protective, but . . .

Most chaps are more comfortable with a pair of suspenders. Husqvarna and STIHL are widely available. A lot of guys on this site like site sponsor's Labonville chaps.

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OTHER

Don't forget boots!

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I have a few helmets and a few sets of chaps, and select them based on what I will be doing.

Philbert

I'm sorry but your chaps description is wrong. More layers do not equate to more protection if that is your sole basis for comparison. Most chaps sold are the cheapo Stihl and Husqvarna brands (made by others) and filled with generic protection layers. Avoid them and buy chaps that use Kevlar for protection. They will cost more but will offer MUCH better cut resistance. Make it easy on yourself and by FSS stamped chaps. Labonville makes cheap chaps and good chaps, buyer beware.

I also disagree with wearing safety glasses. They get sweat covered and gunked up by tree and brush sap. If you can tolerate that then fine but wire screen goggles or glasses are not effected by either sweat or sap and are very rugged. Safety glasses are needed when working with metal and a grinder. Bugz don't fit my head either.

I do agree with the need for PPE that meets the job (I wear a Stihl helmet system when cutting firewood and a Bullard wildland helmet with ear plugs and goggles for work.) I have a pair of Stihl safety sunglasses when using a firehose, same goes for gloves leather on the fireline, rigging or no gloves otherwise.

I also agree that PPE has to be worn to work. If your PPE is in the truck because you don't like to wear it then you need to change to something that you will wear.

This vid will get a laugh out of anyone who has ever worked fire. The PPE ensemble is great. It is also a little painful to watch. I broke my own rule and didn't search to see if this has been posted before so if it has I appologise.
Worst fire department in the United States? - YouTube
 
Ya know, I have a 2 very nice MacTs. One is a cap and the other a helmet. I'd be willing to send you one in exchange for an autographed picture of my future wife. I mean since she lives just a short distance from you and all.

For whom would you like Mrs. Turunen to write the inscription?
 
More layers do not equate to more protection if that is your sole basis for comparison.
Nope. It is a combination of the number of layers, the thickness of the layers, and the material used. However, the more protective chaps that I have seen have always been thicker and heavier than basic protection. Some will disagree with you that Kevlar is always the best choice. My basis for choice will remain the UL rating, which is based upon testing, rather than a description.


I also disagree with wearing safety glasses. They get sweat covered and gunked up by tree and brush sap.
Then we agree to disagree. The mesh face shield protects your face against swinging branches (up to a point) and flying chips. It does not protect against things that come over, under, around, or through the mesh (some are plastic). It does not protect when the visor is up and the missile comes from work that someone else is doing.

There are hundreds of styles of ANSI approved safety glasses available; you should be able to find ones that work for you. I wear prescription glasses so I wear prescription safety glasses with side shields along with my helmet system. Yeah, I have to wipe or clean them occasionally, but I value my eyes.



I do agree with the need for PPE that meets the job . . . I also agree that PPE has to be worn to work.
Well, at least we agree on something!

Philbert
 
Back in the day before I'd ever heard the term PPE.

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Yep; I spent more years cutting trees w/o PPE than I have with it, but now it's on with the PPE before I use the saw or the brushcutter. Many a sawyer had to learn as did the OP, that PPE is cheap insurance in caring for one's self. The new helmets with the face shield and earmuffs all in one make it easy and comfortable for the woodsman. Just remember to lift up the face shield before you spit.:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Yep; I spent more years cutting trees w/o PPE than I have with it, but now it's on with the PPE before I use the saw or the brushcutter. Many a sawyer had to learn as did the OP, that PPE is cheap insurance in caring for one's self. The new helmets with the face shield and earmuffs all in one make it easy and comfortable for the woodsman. Just remember to lift up the face shield before you spit.:hmm3grin2orange:

The biggest problem I have with the helmet systems is they aren't back-of-the-pickup tough. 99% of the time that helmet goes on the backseat but when I'm feeling paticularly stupid and toss it in the truck bed I find I am doing repair work before I can wear it again. Any PPE can be damaged this way of course but helmet systems are the most likely item to be damaged.

I am actually surprised that there is no "stale date" molded into the shell of plastic helmets. Is 3 years out in the sun (PNWers, the sun is the big yellow thing in the sky over Disneyland) too much UV for the plastic? I have no idea. The only thing I do is flex my helmet from time to time and look for cracks.
 
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Most hardhats for construction work are good for 5 years past the date stamped on it.
 
Nope; they ain't made for tossin' round, or even rough handling. Matter of fact, they'll come apart on ya anyhow with their plastic push-n-snapon design.
 
I am actually surprised that there is no "stale date" molded into the shell of plastic helmets.

Most hardhats for construction work are good for 5 years past the date stamped on it.

The manufacturers recommend that they be replaced 5 years after being put into use. The date molded into the shell is the date it was molded, which is a good starting point. If the helmet sat on a cool, dry, dark shelf for several years before it was first used, that date might not be the best to go by.

Sunlight (back window of a car or truck) and heat are hard on plastic helmets. They recommend that they be discarded if you see any chalking, cracks, or deformation, or if it has survived a significant blow, even if it still looks good. Since basic plastic hard hats are so cheap ($6 - $15), it is an inexpensive thing to do.

Philbert
 
Thanks in part to our super-dooper ozone layer hi-vis plastic helmets are only good for 2 years from date of issue in the bush in NZ, although non hi-vis ones are good for 3 years
 
The most important PPE is yourself namely your skill level. To quote D. Douglas Dent author of Professional Timber Falling A Procedural Approach:
" Perhaps a major contributor to ineffective safety planning and programs on all levels is a result, at least in part, of the belief that accidents and deaths can be reduced solely by the implementation of safety procedures. In reality it is the combined application of proper technique and safety measures that can reduce accidents."

Just remember wearing chaps, helmets, boots etc... does not make you invinicble and in many situations no amount of safety equipment will save you, only your judgement, skill/proper technique can.

Now with the above being said as far as chaps, helmet, eye protection and boots go choose what is the best for you and in which you still have high mobility. Having boots that are overly heavy and loaded with protection or having overly thick chaps like the laybonville competition ones can hamper your ability or slow you down greatly when running from a falling tree which could lead to death.

What I use for safety equipment is the stihl helmet system- gives you hearing, eye and head protection all in one. And also the Stihl pro chaps with the 4 layers of kevlar. Although any pro helmet or chap system from husqvarna, oregon, laybonville etc... will work.
 
The most important PPE is yourself namely your skill level. To quote D. Douglas Dent author of Professional Timber Falling A Procedural Approach:
" Perhaps a major contributor to ineffective safety planning and programs on all levels is a result, at least in part, of the belief that accidents and deaths can be reduced solely by the implementation of safety procedures. In reality it is the combined application of proper technique and safety measures that can reduce accidents."

Just remember wearing chaps, helmets, boots etc... does not make you invinicble and in many situations no amount of safety equipment will save you, only your judgement, skill/proper technique can.

Now with the above being said as far as chaps, helmet, eye protection and boots go choose what is the best for you and in which you still have high mobility. Having boots that are overly heavy and loaded with protection or having overly thick chaps like the laybonville competition ones can hamper your ability or slow you down greatly when running from a falling tree which could lead to death.

What I use for safety equipment is the stihl helmet system- gives you hearing, eye and head protection all in one. And also the Stihl pro chaps with the 4 layers of kevlar. Although any pro helmet or chap system from husqvarna, oregon, laybonville etc... will work.

I often dump my chaps when falling an iffy tree. I'm slow anyway but wearing just pants help alot.
 
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